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Tanuki

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Everything posted by Tanuki

  1. The GL5 I use [Lodexol FS 75W-90] is fully-synthetic and rated as safe for transmissions with 'yellow metal' components. I think the 'thing' about GL5 not being OK for such gearboxes was from 25 years back when GL5 non-synthetic oils were first introduced and some of them included lots of sulphur/phosphorus compounds [Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates?] The stuff I use doesn't stink like the old high-sulphur "EP" hypoid oils.
  2. TD5 coolant-temperature-sensor feeds to the ECU, not the gauge. The coolant-temperature-sensor is used (along with the fuel-temperature sensor on the pressure-regulator, and the intake-air-temperature sensor in the air-filter-casing) to let the TD5 ECU make decisions on fuelling, EGR-volume, boost-limit, glowplug-energisation etc. As a bit of a sideline the ECU sends a composite-of-various-sensors signal to the dashboard temperature-gauge. Your 'clockwork' engine doesn't need these signals - so single-wire your existing sensor back to an old-style 200/300TDI gauge and it should work.
  3. The official JLR Book-of-Words for my 90TD5 says the transfer-box takes 2.3 Litres. Which is about what I typically budget for when getting 75W80 GL5 [which also goes into the front/rear diffs] for an all-round oilchange.
  4. Fascinating... but if I was wanting to do that I wouldn't use any kind of metal - I'd go for stressed cellular--honeycomb and weave-reinforced (Kevlar) plastic. Lighter, much stronger, corrosion-resistant, safer in a crash (because of controlled energy absorption), much easier to repair, and probably cheaper too. Think F1 cars and modern aircraft - or even 1960s Lotus road-cars! [They kinda give the game away when that boast about their panels being thicker: that's old-style last-century thinking. These days the game is all about efficient use of materials - meaning **thinner** and **lighter** for the same, or greater, strength].
  5. Eberspächer is a brand/manufacturer, covering a whole range of different fuel-burning heaters [with powers from a pedestrian gnats-whiskers-more-than-a-Kilowatt up to 50+Killerwatt serious burn-the-hair-off-your-legs roasters] Which Eberspächer model do you have?
  6. Personally, I would *want* a 21st-century pickup/van to have a unibody [featuring lots of lightweight carbon-fibre/foamed-metal/stressed-composite goodies] over an old-style heavy-metal chassis. Why? For a given weight it's a vastly better way to handle everyday stress/strain loads - and totally outclasses old rigid-chassis stuff when it comes to collapsing and sacrificing itself in a crash so you don't die. I feel that a lot of the "Old LR" stalwarts here are stuck in the mindset of pre-WWII railway-carriage designers, where 'heavy' was good. Me? I'm happy to embrace what's been developed in the last decade and deployed in F1 cars, military and civil-aviation. "Light" doesn't mean flimsy - properly implemented it gives spectacular strength along with predictable, controlled and energy-absorbing collapse when the occasion arises. It also doesn't rot as quickly as a Defender chassis!
  7. A healthy TD5 should fire-up from cold on the second or third crankshaft-rotation. When mine's not done so it's been down to combustion-gases in the fuel-rail because of failure of the copper-washer injector-seals [I've learned to treat these as 70,000-mile service-items]. As a test - before cranking, do a couple of 'fuel system purge' cycles [details for your particular rendition of the TD5 will be in the handbook - it varies depending on the ECU you've got] - this will expel any 'trapped wind' in the in-head fuel galleries and ensure you have clean bubble-free fuel being fed to the injectors, which is essential for a clean and untroubled engine-launch.
  8. I'd wrap it in some of the brown "Vapour phase corrosion inhibitor" paper then seal it inside a suitably-sized Tupperware-box or one of the big containers you get ice-cream in. At least an injection-pump's small. I've got a 5-speed Jack Knight Hillman Imp transaxle in preservation - which is just a bit less-convenient to store!
  9. Sticky-wastegate was an issue on my 90TD5 - it would be really "numb" and sluggish for the first few hundred yards/30 seconds after a cold-start [wastegate stuck open?] then recover - presumably the gate freed-off once there was some heat into the turbo/housing - but after a few miles of 'enthusiastic' driving it would then go numb again; turning the ignition off for a few seconds then turning it back on would clear the problem for a while. I eventually realised what was going on and did some wastegate-lever-wiggling to properly free it off. As to the usefulness of a boost-gauge - I don't really see how it will help. After all, there's nothing you can really do to alter what it's showing while you're driving (apart from adapting your driving-style: I find most people have been crazily conditioned to 'change up early' which really doesn't work well with the naturally free-revving spirit of a TD5 - there's a rev-limiter there to tell you when you really need to reach for the next gear. You can't over-rev a modern Diesel).
  10. You may be able to 'kludge' it using old bolts or something - but if it then fails and flips a trailer into the other-side of a motorway or something, your insurers would probably walk away and leave you with a problem that could be both legally-interesting and financially-crippling. Proper parts are - in this context - a cheap investment.
  11. Saying it stops after traversing a watersplash makes me think you should check your serpent. I've seen a few instances [generally presenting with alternator-charge issues in applications where there's a twin-battery setup and some serious electrical loads] where the serpent's drive-surface has become polished and - more importantly - the little grooves in the pulleys have become fillled with belt-wear debris/rust/mud so the little peaks on the belt can't settle all the way down into the grooves - meaning grip is compromised and you get poor charge/nasty-noises. A good indication of this is a brief 'twitter' noise when you turn the engine off. Answer: fit a new serpent [Gates/Dayco being the brands to go for] and vigorously wire-brush the pulleys to remove any clag from the grooves.
  12. "When people can actually buy these things" ?? Sure we can - whether as upfront cash, or on a 3- or 5-year PCP [remember, business-users get serious tax-offsettability]. Decry this mindset if you like - but remember that the cash-purchase, 3- or 5-year business-leased vehicles keep the factories churning-out product - and when these old surplus vehicles get dumped on the marketplace the off-road types get to buy them up cheap for play.
  13. Apart from seal-fitment issues, check that there's nothing pressurising the crankcase. Under normal operation the crankcase should always be at atmospheric-pressure or negative-pressure. If breather-issues mean the crankcase gets to positive-pressure it will inevitably cause seals/gaskets to leak. As a test, let your engine idle, then take the oil-filler cap off and put your hand over the hole. You should feel gentle pulsations and maybe a bit of a 'suck'. Then rev the engine until it hits the rev-limiter - the pulsations should fade away and the 'suck' should continue. If you feel any signs that your hand's being blown away from the filler you have crankcase-pressurisation issues which need to be investigated.
  14. If the fuel-pump's enoughly-noisy that you can hear it, I'd be worried. It shouldn't be noisy-enough to be noticeable. Get a fuel-rail pressure-check by all means. And also - how old is the fuel-filter? If it's more-than-10,000-miles-old it could have a lot of clag and so be preventing the in-tank pump delivering full pressure.
  15. My Defender TD5 has done this a few times. Try doing a "fuel systerm purge cycle" on the key a couple of times [takes around six minutes per cycle] and then see if it will start. If it does, the problem's air/combustion-gases in the fuel-rail inside the head, and the fix is replacing the injector-sealing copper-washers. To be honest I'd consider replacing the copper washers a 60,000-mile service item, if only to avoid starting problems. Running for any length of time with leaky washers can either result in diesel-in-the-sump engine-bearing damage or burned-out-electric-fuel-pump problems. At worst, both at the same time!
  16. 21st-century oil-pumps are fun! No more simple dumb clockwork things depending on a primitive pressure-relief valve to manage pressure - that's wasteful-of-energy. Now we have proper variable-displacement pumps that are regulated (like a variable-nozzle turbo that holds boost constant over a wide range of RPM/loads) so the pressure sits at 3 Bar irrespective of whether the engine's doing 800 or 5500RPM or the oil's at -45 or +145 Centigrade. An old-style oil-pump stirring thick, cold oil can consume at least 1BHP at high revs.
  17. It may also be to do with present- and future tyre-availability. Tyres are included in the emissions-profiling of vehicles these days (indeed there was a threat a few years back that the CO2-rating of some vehicles, and hence their annual tax-rates, would only be valid when the tyres-they-had-been-rated-on were fitted, and that _could_ have become part of future MoT-style regular testing). Tyre speed-rating is also an issue in certain markets (Guten Abend, Deutschland?) - I'd be hoping that Defender 3.0 would have a top-speed over 117MPH so that means it needs "VR" rated rubber, which doesn't generally come in the knobblier-profiles. Also, big rims let you fit bigger brakes! I consider the likes of my 90TD5 to be woefully underbraked considering its weight/speed [front discs/pads have always been an 18,000-mile/18-month replacement item]
  18. If there's a CV joint inside the swivel, I'd say go for it with the semi-fluid grease. Better to have grease in there than fill it with EP90 and have it all widdle itself away like an incontinent 90-year-old so the joint runs dry!
  19. I instinctively avoid Britpart stuff if the part-in-question involves any kind of going-up-and-down, going-in-and-out or going-round-and-round. I've fitted Britpart door-mirror-glasses though, and recently a Britpart exhaust-system and a TD5 cambox-cover gasket. They seem to be working OK. So far.
  20. From memory, there's a Road Traffic Act legal limit on the permitted wattage of reverse-lights, and they also have to be 'diffuse' [a pearlescent lens] rather than clear. In the 1980s several rally-cars were to my knowledge excluded from competitions because they had similar "rear-mounted spotlamps" which failed to impress the scrutineers, even though such lights were distinctly useful when recovering from an 'off' on a night-time forest stage. There was a thread about this here: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/60824-reverse-lights-legal-querstion/
  21. I'd be hoping that the chassis will be stressed aluminium/composite (if only so it can be engineered to have crumple-zones and so deliver proper 21st-century occupant-protection) - in which case I'd be expecting an etch-primer as the protection. Sacrifical anodes [Magnesium] might be a sensible option if you're going anywhere near sea-water. Steel chassis is such an outdated, heavy, inefficient approach: they don't even use them for trains these days!
  22. I hope it'll be a success too. I wonder what they're going to do about establishing a dealer/parts-support network? This is always an issue with 'new' brands trying to enter the market - all the moreso in the commercial-vehicle world where a vehicle just can't be out-of-action while you wait for a part to arrive. [Someone I know worked for the importer of Japanese "Hino" trucks a few decades back. They were cheap-to-buy but if one failed somewhere remote like Aberystwyth or Launceston your nearest dealer might as well have been on Mars! You don't see many Hino trucks in the UK these days]
  23. "De-contented" - meaning stripped-of-content/features, pared to the bone, "Poverty-spec". Term''s traditionally used in the automotive industry to describe 'low-budget' versions of cars where things found in the normal model - radio, alloys, aircon, electric-windows, cruise-control - are deleted in order to meet some particular [often tax-related] price-point.
  24. The proposed Ineos Grenadier looks 'interesting' but to my mind it's just too de-contented to ever be a big seller in first-world markets. Even builders, forestry-workers, utilities-contractors, farmers etc. expect a certain basic level of creature-comforts in their vehicles these days [look at a current-production tractor: it's stuffed to the gills with techie-things like aircon, satnav, sixteen-speaker audio, realtime data-link back to the office, heated seats/steering-wheel, good soundproofing, multiple reversing cameras]. OK, it's fine having a vehicle with true "go anywhere" capability but when your crews shun it over a Sprinter or a Hilux because the Hilux/Sprinter's faster, more-comfortable and they know that for 99% of their jobs it'll do what's needed. I see the Grenadier as probably selling *more* into the "urban look at me! I'm a hardcore off-roader" lifestyle segment! Most of such buyers will probably only use 10,000 miles of their 30,000-mile allocation and replace it with a Landcruiser when the 3-year lease is up.
  25. I'm reserving judgement until I see Her Majesty driving one. She's had quite a few decades of driving 88/109/90/110/Defender, Range-Rovers etc around Windsor, Balmoral and Sandringham - sometimes frightening Middle-Eastern royalty with her speed (and them not really understanding how a mere woman could possibly know how to drive...) If JLR want to score a marketing coup, I'd suggest despatching a dozen of the new Defenders to each of Windsor/Sandringham/Balmoral. Fit them with Corgi-guards to the rear and a 'help-handle' on the B-post so Her Majesty can climb aboard with a degree of ease and discretion despite her nine-decades - tell her "we, your humble servants say enjoy yourself!" and let the paparazzi loose!
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