hl1977

Because the originals are in two pieces 😳 Yes, probably just will trim the rubber part smaller.

Thanks for replies! Called to local Bilstein representative and they haven't even heard about bushes being separately available. What are toughts about that, if I cut original bushes into two halfs and then trim away the excess of rubber?

I have searched around (without any luck) about bushes for bilstein b6 defender rear shocks. The upper bushings on my truck are starting to disintegrate with less than a one year of usage . I have original bushes (NRC5593), but they are way too big. Also the bilstein uses two-part bushing on upper eye not single thread roller style. Is there a part number or any keyword I could use to find suitable bushes?

+1

Thanks for reply. I hope that new belt solves the problem of squealing. I have had one absolutely quiet belt so far, and that was 'made in PRC'. But, it broke into pieces after 15000 km / 1 year. I have used also 2 dayco belts and they both had some chirping...

I excluded the tensioner, as the whining stops when spraying water on the belt. After it dries out, the whining comes back. I've changed the tensioner with new one without any effect. Only thing that reduced the whining was cleaning pulley grooves from burnt in rubbery material (from belt I assume). Also the grooves of belt itself are damaged, filled with similar rubbery debris as pulley grooves. I'm still waiting for new belt after what I hope the whining stops. My assumption is that during driving through clay/mud holes the mush was splashed to belt. There it was rubbed into belt material and due to increased friction it melted to pulley and belt grooves. So far I had stuck viscous coupling and the fan was working all the time and air flow kept the under-bonnet area clean and I didn't got any problem with belt contamination (heard few days back, that keeping belt clean was also problem for some MB engines back in 1980ties). Anyhow, I have removed the fan in late august (driving became much quieter, no overheating even when towing 2,5 tonne trailer, fuel consumption dropped at least 0,5 l/100km - just wonderful). But there are a lot of splashes under bonnet (on top of coolant tank, on top of engine, etc etc) now. My conclusion is that removing fan, I exposed belt for dirt. But I have no experience with defender with non-stuck viscous coupling, so if I'm wrong please correct me.

Don't think so, as it was OEM belt placed just 7000 km ago.

I had to drive through several mud/clay holes lately. During that the fan belt started to screech really badly. Actually, it was almost unbearable to stay near the working motor (= extra noisy defender). Apparently there was some dirt splashed on the belt. In local garage they supported the idea, as the working face of pulleys was polished shiny. So I have spent hours to clean pulleys and placed a new belt. Bloody annoying work so thought that maybe there is something to be done to keep the belt clean? Avoiding dirt roads and mud-holes is unfortunately not an option Engine is 300tdi fitted on defender in 1995. Also, could someone give a short tutorial how to remove topic

Mine differential ratchets (STC2940) arrived yesterday. No thrust washers were included. Fortunately ordered them separately.

Thanks! If I would knew this few years ago Have driven a lot on icy / snowy / muddy roads with difflock un-engaged...

Do you believe that it can withstand power, what will apply when ratchet snaps to its finger? In my case I believe that due to poor lubrication caused by water in oil the friction between ratchet and shaft became so high that they welded together. I have also a question about the dished thrust washers. What is the life expectancy for them under normal use? And/or is there some service recommendations about replacing intervals?

Finally got time to split the differential. Didn't believe that something so badly broken was still working. Guess, I have to order STC2940 (genuine/eac parts obviously). But, does it contain only ratchets or are the dished thrust washers (FRC6968) also included?

I have workshop manuals from different years and all of them state that the oil should meet API GL4 or GL5. Did quick search in forums and there seem to be supporters for both. Anyway, good to know and in future I will switch to oils meeting both requirements. Anyhow, started taking off the t-box and hope to strip it tomorrow.

Thanks for all the answers! The oil is GL5 trasmission oil and bolt were all marked during dismantling. I just identified (or at least I hope so) problematic place. Today I fixed the rear output shaft, so only front shaft was rotating. And as a result the subtle dry whistle became quite loud (and it came from the area where differential is located). With rear shaft released, I can barely hear it. So, I quess there is something wrong with the differential as it does not rotate freely as it supposed to be. But, I haven't dismantled the differential during rebuild, so what can be wrong with it? Water from washing could stay in t-box for 2 days max. Is this time enough to cause some kind of rusting inside? Altough, I couldn't saw any rust marks during assembly of the t-box. Do I need to take out the t-box again and check the differential or is it possible to make it work on less time consuming way? I lifted the back of truck to allow oil penetrate front part of t-box more freely but this did not make difference.

Transfer box (lt230 prefix 22d) on my defender 300tdi has been leaking since I bought it five years ago. As it evolved to amount of 1+ liter oil per 500 km, it was time for changes. So I took out the t-box and gave it a good wash. Placed all seals between parts of casing and output shafts (from gasket kit rtc3890). During that, I didn't split any working parts. When assembling everything fitted perfectly together and no power was needed to put the box together. There were almost no visible marks of wear on ratchets or shafts. So far so good. During the test drive at first everything seemed OK. After ~2 miles the transfer box started to screech. Stopped the car and discovered that first output flange was very hot. Let it cool and drove slowly back. First checked the oil and found that it was water (presumably from pressure washing I did once the box was out from car) contaminated. So changed the oil, disconnected the propshafts and started to investigate. As a result I found out that: * high/low gear and difflock are all working. * output flanges are easy to turn around by hand. * on low gear light knackering is in the box, appearing approx. after every 1/4th of turn. It is possible to feel with hand turning output flange and also can hear it. This does not appear on normal gear. * within few minutes of work, the output shafts are becoming warm (but not hot). For me it seems to be too quickly. * engaging 4th and 5th gear there is possible to hear subtle dry whistle. (last two are with working engine) Is this normal and can I go to use the car or not? Before rebuild everything worked perfectly, but I can't swear that it did not had all these symptoms already...