pioneer

My landrover is 10% Scotch lock's, think the rest is unspecified wires, electrical tape and cable ties

So yesterday I fitted a Sterling Pro-Reg B and 4x SBS40 Batteries to my 90 and I thought id share for anyone else who might be interested in doing something similar. 1st Things first, Remove alternator Now that I have installed the regulator I have found out that this step is no necessary as you can remove the alternator regulator without taking out the alternator lol. Removing the alternator on a 300tdi is not to much bother tho Pieeater3142 in the background playing with his inter cooler pipes Now to connect a new field control wire to the brush's The instructions say to fit wires two short wires to the brushes, this is so that once the alternator is re-assembled we can measure the voltage from each wire two ground to work out what wire is the field control wire. For anyone else fitting the regulator to a 300tdi (not sure on alternator type on 200tdi) you only need to connect a wire to the brush I have connected a black wire to as this was the wire that controls the field Now to fit the regulator Before fitting, remove the case and set the battery type. You can chose between Conventional Lead Acid, Sealed LEad Acide / AGM, Gel Batteries (Exide spec) and Gel USA Setting. As I am installing it with some SBS40's I have set mine to Sealed Lead Acid After looking at tide marks etc in the battery I find that the front edge of the box is the driest. The regulator need's 4 wires running back to the alternator The new field controll wire (white), D+ wire (brown) and 2x Negative (black) to the case of the alternator, these need to be septate wires back to the alternator not joined together You also need to run an ACC wire to the regulator to switch it on with the engine. The last wire is the voltage sense wire, this just connects to the positive terminal on the batteries. All installed, Land rover cranks over no problems and now the alternator is kicking out 14.4v while running The 4x SBS40's might seem to be an overkill but they where free so I thought I might as well use them. Quick spec on the battery shows that they are 500cca / 2000a Short Circuit amps, 38Ah This now gives me a a hefty 2000cca and 152ah of capacity They also have an operating temperature of -40 to +50deg c so should be good for cold winter mornings (getting warmer now so that should not be an issue)

this is true, but I also regularly give lifts to people and this ties up the back of the 90, least with a 110 CSW i can have the seats clear and kit out the back Also the extra load space would be handy if needed, suppose I could always get a NATO hitch and go for a wolf trailer conversion

Ahh, My mate has just informed me about Q plates as well :-s More hunting for 110's then is probably the best bet. Didn't know about the difference in rear axles, maybe I should just tart up my 90 as its kitted for off road (winch, protection, lift) Really I need the space with the option of overlanding later on Thanks for the advice

Thanks for the fast replys, I will have a look about and see about removing the half shaft seal (not the hub seal )

I really want a 110, but my 90 has just had its gearbox rebuilt and the engine runs well and the bulkhead is in v good condition. Looking on eblag etc for 110's seems to be a bit hit and miss, so now my current trail of thought is to get a 110 galvanized chassis and swap + add parts from my 90 then sell the bit I don't need (90 has a galvanized chassis) From what I have worked out and seen from bulkhead and dash forward are the same so I will really just need to get a 110 tub and rear sections + new prop-shafts. What do you think, good project? Has anyone here done this before? or should i just carry on looking for 110's Regards, Tom

Yea axles all ready have oil in them, there not fully sealed though as they have breathers at the top, this one the bearings ran on oil as well. I think they where custom hubs, not sure tho.

Hi, Ages ago I saw a defender for sale that had sealed oil filled axles.. I cant for the life of me remember who made them or find the advert for the defender though Does anyone have any experience with these or know a company that makes them? I think it was basically new hubs on the old axle. Regards, Tom

Yep thrust washer, quick Google and this looks like what your piece of bronze came from.

Lets try that again 12v---+------------+ | | RESISTOR | | | |------GUAGE-+ | TEMP SENSOR | 0v----+

Guess there not needed then..

Email sent

From having a Google about the place people are suggesting is after the lift pump and before the filter. I was thinking of fitting mine after the filter as it would save adding a separate filter in-line but I am unsure as to how will the Eberspacher's fuel pump will work with the extra resistance.

Does anyone know how the temperature sensor work's on vehicles? The way I think they work is as a voltage divider as one side is grounded to chassis and the other goes to the dial. Something like this 12v---+------------+ | | RESISTOR | | | |------GUAGE-+ | TEMP SENSOR | 0v----+ Tom

James, look under your 90. on mine i have something similar that is supporting the cross bar/support on the tub (if that's what it is called)

Lovely engineering, Where do you get the air from? compressor in the air con spot or electric?

And what a fun evening that was, Good job I have a pair of Hella worlk lights on my 90 When are you going to put some photo's up?

I have got a D5W for my Defender(yet to fit) I don't think it will cause to much of an issue if I add another heater matrix into the cooling loop (paralleled with the original one)