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When I had a Td5 I noticed that the heater blew cold if revs allowed below about 1ooo - so if parked waiting for someone etc I would keep the revs up to near the 1000 mark and heater output would be fine . I also had a problem with the heater output being intermittent on occasion and was always due to low coolant level - keep a check on it in case an airlock etc has developed .

Rear wheel drive Disco can be 'fun' to say the least - especially if you come across icy roads for example . I had the front prop off my D2 for a few weeks and found a huge difference in the handling - nearly lost it the first night I drove on icy roads ; couldn't believe the difference .

I got a recon box for my D1 from Paddocks a few years back and it was happy with it - had the Disco for about 2 yrs after the change . Thats just my experience - others may disagree and suggest another supplier . As regards the drop link I would certainly recommend getting a box with the drop arm attached - I had a 10 ton hydraulic puller and it just about got the arm off after a lot of hassle . I read some posts at the time where gas etc had to be used to try to get the arm off .

This might help http://www.google.ie/search?q=auto+wiring+diagram+symbols&hl=en&tbo=u&rlz=1R2ADSA_enIE388&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=2AMXUfnGBtC0hAeP7YDoCA&ved=0CCkQsAQ&biw=1024&bih=571

Have you dropped the end of the box much ?. I did one and I let the box down a bit and then used long extensions going back over the top of the box . If you can use an extension with a 'wobbly' end it can help . Once you've located it keeping the socket on the bolt head can be a problem - you need to keep forward pressure on it .

If the heater is cold with engine warmed up then there is no coolant circulating through it . Usually its because of an air lock ( unless the heater matrix is blocked up internally ). If heater had been OK prior to this then you have an airlock - and when the air heats up it expands and pushes out coolant . Coolant being forced out is also a symptom of a blown head gasket ( combustion gases are escaping form cylinder(s) into coolant system and forcing coolant out ). This is why coolant being forced out can cause confusion - and is often put down to a blown head gasket . Another thing to be aware of is if the temp gauge goes down - stop and check . If the coolant level has dropped and there is no coolant around the gauge sensor for it to 'sense' then the gauge will go down. Seeing a gauge go down you may think 'It's OK , Its not overheating '- but there is still a problem . And if you continue on you could end up with a seized engine . Get heater working ( that is putting out warm air ) using the various methods in the posts.

May not change much . This time of year many Disco's run quite happily with the fan removed altogether during the cold weather as they can lead to overcooling.

I think I remember reading somewhere that the 300 Tdi alternator draws air in from the back and this makes the fitting of a heatshield important . Have a look at this http://www.quicksales.com.au/ad/alternator-heatshield-300tdi-land-rover-discovery-defender-r/4792739

Yes . one of the heater pipes connects to a metal pipe running along the head if I remember correctly. This post gives some useful information on bleeding coolant etc :http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=48353

No you wouldn't have to drain the system - your aim is to get coolant flowing through the heater . You could disconnect the pipe thats remaining cold and try to get coolant to flow through it and then reconnect . Squeezing the top and bottom hoses along their length can also help as you assist the flow of coolant - just be careful if the pipes are hot . As you squeeze the hoses you may notice some movement in the expansion tank ; sometimes if you top it up to full and just leave it for a while with cap off the coolant may slowly displace the air . If you spend a while on Google as I said there is a wealth of information on this subject - and you will also see that it is a common problem. As regards thermostat you could take it out and test it . Suspend it with a piece of thread or string in a saucepan of water . As the water nears boiling point the thermostat should open . If it checks out then concentrate on bleeding the system

If heater does not at least get warm then I would suggest you still have an airlock. Check the 2 hoses that go from the engine bay into the heater - see are both getting warm . You will probably find that only one is getting warm which means the coolant is not circulating through the heater matrix . And if there is air in there it will expand as things warm up and over pressurise . there . The heater can be difficult to bleed and there is plenty of info available - just Google 'bleeding 300 Tdi cooling system' or something similar . This is one link but there are many others : http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&id=29309&catid=5&Itemid=106&view=topic

I removed both sunroofs from my 2001 Td5 2 yrs ago as both were leaking and many posts reported the problem was often between vehicle roof and sunroof frame . I found the original gasket between frame and roof to be paper thin and pretty much useless as a seal . I resealed the boxes where they are attached at the front corner of each roof with Tiger seal . Drain tubes were clear . I then refitted both frames and bedded them in a good bead of Tiger seal -so that a little was squeezed out all around the frame . Then let it set for 24 hrs. Put everything back together and has been dry since - and we have got some serious rain over here . I also removed the rubber seals between glass and frame and cleaned everything up . Then made sure that seal was properly seated all around , coated it with Vaseline ( had no silicone grease) and closed the roofs , making sure the glass was in contact with seal all around . When I was 'researching' my problem I noticed that blocked drain tubes were hardly ever the problem .

You say on first drive the gauge went to 3/4 then dropped back - thermostat could be 'lazy' in that its slow to open and could have got slower . One good check I found was the heater output - airlocks tend to cause intermittent output from heater . Once engine has warmed up and heater is putting out hot/warm air it should continue to do so . if heat output fluctuates without any action on your part then you could still have an airlock . Another simple check I found was that a) with engine hot hoses are fairly rigid/solid due to increased pressure ; b) when engine is fully cooled down hoses should soften BUT if a failed headgasket is causing the problem the hoses tend to stay rigid/solid even with engine cold . Not very scientific method but I found it to be an indicator .

Did one of those a few yrs ago - the box can be got off ; I think I managed to use pointed chisel or something like that to get shear bolts out or maybe used hacksaw blade to make track for screwdriver ; you don't have to worry about damaging the box - it won't be going back . Once box is off I think the solenoid has just one terminal . One of the three wires you mention will come live when ignition switched on . Just connect this to solenoid and away you go . Its been a while but I think thats about it .

When I sorted mine about 2 yrs ago I took out the headlining completely ( its all one piece ) and then refitted grab handles . I then drove the Disco for about 2 wks to get a good idea of where leaks were . Then I removed both sunroofs . There are about 14 ( I think ) torx headed screws keeping each frame in place . Some of these can be rusty and and cause problems - maybe a good dousing with penetrating oil beforehand would help . You can then lift out each sunroof having disconnected the drain tubes from the front of each . Be careful removing the tubes or you could snap off the plastic part they are attached to . Make sure pipes are clear . Make sure seal between each box and sunroof frame is intact ; if not clean everything off and reseal ; when replacing the sunroofs put a good bead of something like Silkaflex or Tiger Seal between frame and roof ; leave to set . Having resealed the roofs I didn't replace the headlining for another 2 wks to make sure it was all dry . When happy with repair replace headling . There is a good how to somewhere - if I find it will post a link . This is one :http://www.is-us.co.uk/vehicles/sunroof-repair-02.html

When I took the sunroofs out of my 2001 Td5 the gasket between roof and frame was just a thin sheet of paper . May have been more substantial when first fitted but over the years had thinned out to nothing - would offer no sealing effect at all.

Gearbox Pictures. Took 6 but can only upload 3 - second one shows what you need . I think that the snap ring holding the bush in place could not have fallen out until you pulled up the gearlever . The gap in the snap ring is much narrower than the gear handle spindle - if that makes sense . You would appear to be on the right track - bush comes up from the bottom and then held in place by the snap ring . Yoke held in place by a very tight 5mm allen head grub screw .Mine was packed with grease so make sure to clear it out so that allen key goes all the way in . Once opened yoke can be removed . If you had a suitable magnet you could try 'fishing' for the missing snap ring - they are fairly tough .

HAve a D2 (2001) box on the floor at the moment . Will get a few pics tomorrow if no one else has got back to you .

When I had a D1 I thought long and hard about changing to a D2 as I had read about complicated/troublesome electronics etc. When I did change I regretted not doing it much earlier as I found the D2 (2001) to be much superior to the D1 in regard to performance , comfort and the fact the 2 rear seats were forward facing . It now has 226K mls done ( bought it with 160 K) and it gave me great service . I did change the airbags for coils but otherwise great service . I am now selling it as the road tax over here is €930 per year - if you tax it at 3 mth intervals it will cost €1005. I was offered a D3 at a very good price 2 years ago but had learnt enough about them by then to keep away.They seemed to be a poor prospect for DIY and the dlrs would soon clean you out . When I read in a LR magazine that when checking alignment on a D3 there were 14 angles to check it certainly helped make up my mind . My Trakrite wouldn't be much good there . I had been looking out for a 2004 D2 but the taxman finished that . Had intended to get a nice clean D2 - I think they look much better than the D3 but thats only a personal opinion .

When I was 'researching' I read reports of some Disco's leaking in the gutters - due to faulyt/failing sealing there where the roof is attached to the sides .. Some had success by cleaning the gutters and re-sealing with silicone etc

http://forums.lr4x4....6&hl=transducer. Have a look here ; probably the transducer has given up ; square ended cable that goes into gearbox drive could be worn/broken ; also check for broken/disconnected wires .

In my experience the seal that often causes the problem is the one between the sunroof frame and the vehicle roof . The seal thins out over time and allows water in . Having read many posts when I first had problems many posters said that the problem was rarely blocked/broken pipes or a faulty seal between glass and sunroof . The seal between frame and vehicle was the most common problem . To sort it properly you need to remove the frame and re-seal between frame and vehicle roof using Tiger Seal or similar . As teabag explained the drain pipes only come into play if water has gotten past one of the seals . The reason fixing your broken pipe resulted in an apparent cure is because , while the leak may still be there , the water is now draining away rather than down on top of you . You may find water comes in if the vehicle is parked facing up hill as the drain pipes are on the front of each sunroof . I only sorted 3 Discos with leaky sunroofs but in all 3 the pipes were clear and unbroken . Rather than removing the sunroof frame you could try a temporary test to see if the problem is between sunroof frame and vehicle roof : (a) run a bead of silicone etc all around the joint where frame and roof meet or (b) seal this joint with wide tape and see if it helps .

From that I would be fairly sure its the seal between sunroof frame and vehicle roof - as both drains are at the front any water getting in between sunroof glass and seal should go out the drains . And quite a few posts I read when 'researching' my problem said the drains are rarely the problem . You could remove the headlining and leave it out for a while as I did ( for a few mths actually as I hated the thought of putting it back ). However it will then be easy to see where the problem is . You can check drains - the usual problem with them appears to be that they break off from the frame . You can also seal the joint between frame and body with black tape and see if it solves it etc. etc.

When I had a leak in my 2001 Td5 it took a while to track it down . It turned out to be from the top corner of the rad and only became visible when I removed the plastic cowling around the rad - then I could just see the pinkish stain . If possible you should also try to have a look from underneath the engine - one leak I came across was only visible from underneath . If any hoses have been disturbed lately and the same spring type hose clamps refitted I would examine then closely ; when I refitted the engine following a clutch change no less than 4 of those ****** spring clamps would not seal properly and had to be replaced .

Last Winter as you will recall was pretty severe by our standards . My brother has a 96 Discovery 300 Tdi and as soon as the temps dropped it wouldn't start in the morning . Fitted new battery - still had problem . Got battery exchanged for another new one - still no joy ; wouldn't start first thing in the morning . Went to another source and got another new battery . Problem solved ; never failed to start after that . Was once told by a friend who deals in batteries that there is in fact a particular battery listed for the 300 Tdi . I also noticed over the last 2 yrs or so the quality of batteries seems to have declined somewhat in the sense that they are not capable of producing what it states on the label . One guy told me that he had invested in an expensive device for checking the actual output of batteries - and was surprised to find that many fell quite a bit short of what was stated .