msggunny

This 2.25 petrol block i inherited has a hole in the partition between the water passages. Its kind of hard to tell from the picture but if you look closely just past and on the top corner of the casting plug you can see a black hole with silver blob sides. Everyone here i have asked cant seem to tell me if its benign or the making of a catastrophic overheating failure later down the road. Any ideas? Anyone seen something similar? Thanks. For reference, its the upper right passage coming from the water pump. Two different perspectives. You can see light through the hole when you put a torch on the closest water passage to it in the block.

Thats where i got the axles from!

Thats one reason i like the toy swap! I will see what makes its self available as far as an engine/tranny combo goes. I would love a diesel but a mean v8 or even a semi upset v6 wouldnt be bad either! I already have the FJ60 axles, got them for a really good price. I think they ought to be ok, i will let you know.

Its a way to kill several birds with one swap, better brakes, better axles, better gear ratio availability, better wheel availability. Of course it will make the engine swap less of an issue as the LC axles are quite beefy. I didnt think about the pumpkin and spring pad issue, hopefully it wont be much of one.

Just curious if this is possible with out a lot of modification. I have looked at the difference between the SIII and Defender bulkheads and to me it doesnt look like it would work, at least not the bottom part. Thanks!

Tried searching around but i didn't find anything other than the swap for a disco. Has anyone swapped in 60 series cruiser axles into a SIII? Looking for any headaches i may have ahead of me. Thanks in advance

Just curious as to how this went. Have you mounted it to your vehicle and if so how did it work? I was searching around to see if this has been done before. I am looking at a way to get disk brakes up front and right now and this seems to be the best way. Thanks.

I guess no one here knows anything about Webers................

I thought we had a quarantine on those guys, how'd they get out! Except for the fact that we dont have "Hi Lux's" here, i would have thought it was in Kentucky...

Seriously, i have searched and the general consensus seems that you have to gut or bypass the stock setup and run new wires for a successful radio set up. Has anyone been able to use the stock set up with an aftermarket head unit? Just deciding if i should quit wasting my time trying to get it to work and tear the sucker apart so i can rewire it. Here is my problem: I installed a new head unit and ran an OEM 2 interface that is supposed to allow the stereo to hook into the stock setup. It also has it running through the stock amp. The radio works, but when i turn on the A/C, or run the wipers, you can hear the electrical interference coming through the speakers. I have checked the ground that i have hooked into the radio, i can actually disconnect it and still hear the noise. I do not have the rear factory subs hooked up yet though, could this be a problem? Thanks.

Hi, i am about to embark on the semi monumental task (for me anyways) of tuning my Weber 32/36 so it doesn't run rich. Right now its belching black smoke. Do any of you out there run a Weber 32/36, and if so did you tune it at all or just use the settings out of the box. when i bought my carb i had it set up for high altitude, and if i am thinking correctly: High altitude=less air, less air=less gas. So it should have been running lean? Anyways..... If any of you are around sea level and are running a 32/36 and you know what your jet sizes are could you please "hook a brother up"? This should help give me some where better to start off from. For those of you who know and may ask "stock or mod engine" here is what has been done: 2.5L cam, Header to glasspack exhaust, Pertronix ig, .060 over, K&N air filter. Thanks!