benthegardener

For anyone else wondering, they do just pull out. One side much easier than the other on mine. First side was very very stiff to get out at one point. The other was also surprisingly rusty on the section inboard of the oil seal too. Might be time to drain and check the rear diff oil.

I am trying to replace my very worn rear half shafts and drive flanges on a 1999 110 hi cap td5. Am I right in thinking the half shafts should just pull out? Mine only seem to come half way, Do I need to get a bit more forceful with them or is there something I haven't undone which I should have? Many Thanks Ben

Going to try an extractor today I think and see how it goes getting the slave one out first. Not really happy about only having the one bolt. But equally not really happy having to get the drill going on the casing either.

Slowly working through the issues on my 99 td5. I have had a leaking clutch slave cylinder, and noticed there was only one bolt (top) holding the old one in. Ordered all the new bits. But on taking the old one off I've discovered the bottom bolt had sheared off within the gearbox casing, no way of getting a new bolt in, no idea how long ago this might have happened, the clutch has been working as long as I've had it, 5 weeks or so. How major a problem is only having 1 bolt? Is that likely to be what's caused the old slave cylinder to fail? While underneath, had another good look round and found there's only one bolt holding the bottom swivel cover on the RHS swivel. Had a poke in the hole there, something solid in there, so guessing there's a sheared bolt in that hole too. Anyone any advice or ideas please? Thanks in advance

Well finally had 2 minutes to get onto this again today after speaking to alive last week. Having removed ECU, it appears I have a Disco TD5 Auto ECU fitted. Good call Landy Andy. Changing the ECU is the only option apparently. That first then onto the next job..... Thanks for advice anyway.

Awesome will give him a call tomorrow thank you.

Ah that would make sense. The original ECU was stolen, so maybe a disco one fitted instead. Is there a way around it? I'm guessing yes change the ECU.

I have recently bought a TD5 pick up which seems to have a few electrical gremlins. Speedo not working at all. milage doesn't change, doesn't light up at night, no speed indicated Reverse, and interior light not working. But wierdest of all is the temp gauge which starts in the middle, at the 12 o'clock position, then as the engine runs for a bit, and gets up to temp, the gauge goes down into the blue. I also have a lumpy running engine at low revs, so does the ECU run off the same temp sensor and if so will that think the temp is high and then lowering, which would trick it into misfuelling for the engine temperature. Or will the ECU know the temperature properly off a different sensor? Any ideas, gratefully received

The high miler 04 one was, despite the assurances of the seller, probably one of the roughest I've ever seen. It had had welding done, a new rear cross member I suspect a front end bang at some point as there was repair work at the front. The fuel filter was suspended by the fuel lines. The engine wouldn't start. There was oil leaking everywhere. The one I'm replacing is in better condition. Good job I bought a return train ticket, just in case!

Have finally conceded that it might be time to upgrade the land rover to something a bit newer. I'm looking at a couple of 110 Hi Cap TD5's. Replacing an old Hi Cap with a 200tdi Disco motor in it. I've got an old mag with a TD5 buyers guide in it, so I'm Ok more or less with what I'm looking for but I wondered what peoples experiencees were with high milers? I have an 04 one to look at but over 215k on the clock, and two 99 ones with just over, and just under 100k on it. Don't know if I'm better going newer but higher milage, or older lower milage. Any thoughts? Thanks Ben

So is the belt system different between Disco and defender then? That sounds different to ejparrott said "The PAS should be driven by the crank and water pump, the alternator by the PAS." I would need to follow the disco belts wouldn't I, if they are different?

It's a funny old conversion because I have a high turbo on it, as a defender should be, but it's definitely a 12L (Disco) engine.

So if I bought a disco mount, that should fit the block properly? I can then fit the correct disco alternator. Presumably the pas pump should have a pulley on it with 2 grooves then, one to take the drive off the crank and one to drive the alternator. I wonder if this was done as a way of fitting the air filter where it was, I think with the alternator higher it may foul where the air filter was mounted before.

Think I've found one on ebay. Should arrive Tuesday, hopefully that'll help start to sort it out.

I'm going to try and post a picture ERR1115 is no longer available apparently. Does anyone make an aftermarket alternator/pas pump mount? Or am I going to be better trawling breakers ebay etc Ok This is what I've got It's been cut away here Closer view Thanks again in advance for any help or ideas Ben