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Well I ended up getting the entire front including inner guards and radiator support from a Disco 2 that was about to be crushed. Cut through the trans tunnel and floor and lifted the whole lot off in one go. I'll have it all blasted and painted while its off.

Hi all, just wondering if anyone here has replaced an entire bulkhead on a Disco1 pre-update? At the moment, my bulkhead is completely bare and Im contemplating replacing the rusty, holed existing one complete rather than repairing and at the same time, installing the newer Softdash. Can I swap in a Disco 2 Bulkhead as a replacement? There are plenty of rust free examples at my local Self Serve wreckers to choose from cheers Nick

I ended up reusing the original Heated Rear window timer module and just connecting it to the ground side of the unused Heated Front Screen relay coil in the Disco 2 Fusebox. Trying to Access to Heated Rear Window relay coil in the Disco2 Interior fuse was difficult due to it being tied in to the IDM. It seems to work ok using this method. For the EFI, made my own engine harness with the original wiring colors, and connected it to the Disco2 Fusebox to allow control of Fuel Pump and Main Relays. I reused the original Fan Timer module on the ground side of the Disco 2 Fan Relay. All in all its been a fiddly and time consuming job, but along the way, Ive learnt a lot about the Disco 2 electrics

That's ok no problem Ive looked again at the wiring diagrams, and I'm going to try and simulate an engine running signal by enabling the Main Relay-something I hadn't tried before. If this dosent work, I'll use the unused Heated Front screen relay and just connect it to my original timer module

I found that information whilst reading the HRW operation description from the Disco2 Electrical Library-It states the HRW will only operate with the engine running because of the high current draw and that the BCU looks for a signal from the Cluster via the Comms Bus that the engine is running. Ive assembled a matching BCU,FuseBox and Cluster together to test on the bench and so far this is the only thing that Ive been unable to make work. Ive tried using the oil pressure lamp and Alternator charge lamp inputs without any luck to simulate the engine running signal

Thanks for the info guys Ive decided to go the whole hog and transplant the D2 BCU and Fusebox... Ive assembled everything on the bench and made everything work except the Heated Rear Window which it looks like the BCU is looking for an Engine Running Signal from the Cluster. Ive tried simulating oil pressure and an Alternator output without any success. What does the Cluster use as an Engine Running signal? Cheers Nick

Thanks for the replies-I looked at the D1 14CUX diagram for the version without the combined main/fuel pump relay module, and i think I can safely say it switches them to ground.....Im guessing Fridge that this is why relays both contain Flyback diodes? Cheers Nick

Hi all, Im currently transplanting a Disco 2 Underbonnet fusebox into my '93 3.9 Disco 1 in an effort to neaten up the wiring with its associated mass of relays scattered inside the car. Ive studied the 14CUX wiring diagram, but could someone here confirm that the ECU supplies grounds on pin 12 for the Main Relay and Pin 16 for the Fuel pump relay to enable operation. cheers Nick

I finally was able to separate the 2 halves😀 It seems I needed to 'pry' a different way to the way I was doing it before to get the flap to sit in the V part of the housing!

Hi there, I'm currently working on my '93 Disco 1 to replace a leaking heater matrix. On the heater housing, I'm having a lot of trouble separating the 2 halves to get the old Matrix out. I've removed all the clips, drilled out the rivits and the housing is at the point where both halves are loose, but the intake flap is preventing the halves from separating. Apparently the flap needs to be fully closed so it fits through a V shaped slot in the housing, but even when fully closed, mine will not fit through this slot. Can anyone give me any ideas on where I might be going wrong Cheers

De Ranged, ive had similar differences in width with the S3 109 chassis that im working on. And alignment left to right is just as bad. I've now used a piece of solid round bar machined down to the same dimension as the front chassis bushes, pressed in place of the front chassis bushes to keep the 2 rails in some sort of parallel. The 2 rails even vary in width quite a fair bit from front to rear!

Thats exactly the same problem i've found also in my measurements. Also the axle centreline measurements differ significantly between the left and right chassis rails. Ive found this is due to the rear spring, front outrigger being incorrectly positioned on the chassis and, on the front, the RHS front spring mount has also been not positioned correctly. All the welds look original so can only assume it came from the factory this way!

Im definitely with Bill on this one--the tolerances for Landrover chassis are terrible. Im currently widening a Series 3 109 chassis to accommodate Nissan leaf sprung axles and have found none of dimensions listed from the factory are even close to spec-some varying by nearly 25mm!

What about the front tub mounts? Do the bolt holes line up there?

I've run into this same problem as well during my S3 109 build---although for different reasons. My full size Ford Falcon Radiator and twin electric fans wouldn't fit between the D2 PAS box and the radiator support panel. I moved my grill panel forward by 55mm and had a sheetmetal shop extend the rear of the bonnet. This gives you more room, but still retains that unique series look. Changing to a 2.6 Bulkhead would also goive you more room as well. Nick