TheBeastie

Thanks western. Quite relieved! Like the idea of an additional isolator switch for internal jump start. Not sure where I can fit another isolator since already got two on the front of the seat box!! I ordered up one of those Odyssey batteries to handle radio supply and await it coming. Looks as if a bit smaller than my existing so a little more room to play with. Do you use the same type for your starter battery too, and if not what do you use? I am beginning to realise that using slightly smaller batteries would make like a lot more comfortable in the box!!

I wondered if I have played this right? I got fed up doing jump leads direct from battery since there is just not enough room in the box so have set up my own jump leads using welding cable and a pair of big Anderson connectors - one bolted to front of seat box and one on end of the welding cable. I decided it would be a good idea to isolate the +ve except when actually needed - never know when fingers might poke where they shouldn't so I got an ordinary red key isolator switch (ref: BIS from VWP) and put it in the +ve cable between the battery terminal and the Anderson connector. I am now wondering whether this might just melt when cranking another engine (or my own) on the jump leads??? Am I likely to be OK or do I need to re-engineer things (and if so what best to use since I still think isolating the connector is a sound idea) Thanks and best wishes Malcy

I have two batteries, neither of which were bought by me but "came" with The Beastie when I got it about 4 years ago. One is a Hoppecke 70Ah and 540 cold crank amps and the other is a UKB 65Ah and 490 cold crank amps. Originally the Hoppecke was the main battery but about 2 years ago I decided to put the UKB (which looked unused) as the main and use the Hoppecke for my radio. Have had both batteries out today to try and squeeze in connections for a big jump lead setup I have built and took opportunity to check and give a maintenance charge to both. Fluid levels in the UKB were fine but I had to give quite a decent drink of de-ionised water to the Hoppecke. I am planning to get an Optima deep cycle battery to run the radio and need to decide which of the two batteries is the best one to keep, and which to donate to my radio club as a starter for a "new" mobile 12.5kVa generator we have built and will set it up to trickle charge the battery when running, so condition is perhaps less vital. Is there any way I can determine which battery is in best condition for me to keep as a starter battery for The Beastie.? I have a decent multimeter but that is all. Any thoughts most appreciated.

Herewith pictures of the bench I built Rolo showing some of detail and also one of (an earlier version of) the bench all packed ready to go. I was sure I had one with the dog inside but cannot find it. Hopefully they give an idea. Good luck!

The Beastie is a hardtop 90 and Rolo is a collie-spaniel cross (plus several other types thrown in for good measure). What I do for long trips is put in a dog guard at the rear bulkhead behind the seats. I then have two stowage boxes that sit on the wheel arches and I made up a platform using what I think is called Sterling board - big flake chipboard stuff all waterproofed. There is a bit attached at 90 degrees that fits to front that prevents the platform flying forward through the gap between the dog guard and the bulkhead. I then covered it with underlay and some old carpet (he is much loved but having seen him try to hold his balance on the bare chipboard going round a corner he needed something to get a grip). He loves it since he can see out the front but has loads of room to stretch out - and I can still use almost the whole of the back of the 90. For a Stafford (at least when it gets big) you might need some supporting structure under the platform but I am sure the idea would work well! Could take some pictures if interested. Good luck

Thanks Western. I knew they were more expensive but had no idea they were that expensive! Am just about to upgrade from roof bars to hopefully a Brownchurch roof rack so I may have to live with the battery for a bit longer but at least now I know what I need to sort it.

I have two "normal" batteries squeezed into my standard battery box on The Beastie, linked by an X-Charge system. The main battery is to start the engine etc, and the second is to run my radios and an inverter. I suspect that the second battery would be better as a deep cycle battery due to the pattern of usage (usually with engine off and running radio with up to 100W output on Tx). I noticed last night that as I was transmitting my internal LED lighting (off same battery) was showing severe dropping of voltage and flickering a lot. What, I wonder, might be the optimal "mix" of batteries for such a setup given I want to keep it all in the battery box? I have seen pictures of two red top Optima batteries but not sure if this gives best mix since the usage requirements for starting the engine and running radios seem quite different. Any suggestions most appreciated.

Have just developed slow puncture where inner tube valve emerges from wheel. Local KwikFit say replace tube but another branch of same said should never have had tubes in first place so a bit unsure. I am pretty sure I have a spare inner tube in garage which I will look out and go to branch who said they should be tubeless since they seemed to be a bit more familiar with Land Rover but not 100% certain they know any better than local branch. Previously had bother with spare wheel which turned out to be corrosion on rim so had already been thinking perhaps new wheels would be an idea as could then run The Beastie and also get old wheels shot blasted and use for spares?? So far as I can tell they are original wheels - remnants of white pain but quite a lot of sort of rust showing through. The tyres are generally reasonable and are mostly Michelin and 205 80R 16. I had been thinking a bigger tyre would have benefits in terms of clearance and looks. Budget is fairly finite though which limits my options. Any suggestions best route forward? Thanks for any input

DOH! Just realised the 2 connector saying wash is to activate the wiper when you give the was a squirt. Please ignore previous thread! Trying to think too hard and it is a Sunday:-)

Sorry to resurrect but doing more reading I am slowly getting a sense of the thing. An earlier post refers to the two pin connector as the rear wash - so does this mean I would be better getting the rear door wash reservoir that I have seen rather than getting a two pump front reservoir and then running tubing to the back? Certainly running wiring back to a rear reservoir would be more effective than running tubing. Sorry if I am being dense but trying to keep too many balls in the air at one time here!!! I think I sense another internet order to LR Series coming up!

Thank you. Huge help. Given I need a switched supply can I split the feed to the voltmeter and so give a switched supply to the oil pressure and oil temperature gauges that are in the same console? My instinct says I can on the basis that any impact on voltage going through voltmeter will be minimal but ... ? Thanks Malcy

Have finally got wire from sender to guage (only took 12 months!) Now cannot find the sheet! There are two connections at top for illumination and then three terminals at the bottom in a |_| configuration - looking at it from the back. I have an earth on the bottom _ terminal (must have done when I had the diagram?) but now not sure which | terminal to put the sender unit to and whether I also need presumably a 12v supply to the other | terminal. DOes anyone have a copy of the original data sheet? I did Google but only came up with a diagram for a quite different set of terminal configurations Thanks for any help Malcy

Thanks for the help guys. Now sorted it - just needed the application of some intelligence!! Managed to do it without losing any more blood

Am in process of changing wiper motor and realise that I also need to move the main cog gear across too since new motor only have a worm drive (I think that is what it is called). I naively assumed it would be straightforward!! I have managed to release circlip on the inside of the motor to release the cable but cannot see how to get the circlip off the outside where it holds the main cog into the body. It seems to just go over half way round the pin. I tried holding the motor and using circip pliers but found the points are very sharp. Have now stopped blood flow How do you remove this clip - and then to pre-empt the next question, how do you get it back on after transferring the cog? Haynes appears to have conveniently overlooked this part of the operation! Any pointers most appreciated - in meantime I will go on to next "task" and hope someone can enlighten me shortly. Thanks for any help and all best wishes Malcy

Thanks guys. In answer to the various questions the door is of the original type. I have attached an image of the motor. There is certainly a thread on the end of the thick part of the plastic (it might be metal) spindle and then another thread on the very end. I am assuming the wiper arm screws onto the end thread and I can purchase separately the nut(s) mentioned which will acttach the motor to the door. On the bracket assembly there are two holes , one on each "wing" that look as though they maybe are rivetted or else attached to door with perhaps an M3 bolt and there is also a sort of roughly M8 sized brass on a thick rubber anti-vibration grommet which looks as though it is meant to be attached to something. Does that help??

Just been a bit stupid - went out into arctic wastes and looked at door - suitable sized hole on channel under window so just (?) need to drill straight out through that hole to get through outer skin. So that question answered - apologies. However, next question is HTF do you attach the motor to the door? It is an AMR3676 made by Britpart. There is an integral bracket and perhaps once I have drilled the hole and fitted the spindle through it will become clear but it does not look like it. I think more parts are in order but any pointers would be helpful. Thanks

I have bitten a bullet and ordered wiper motor to go onto the new back door. My old one had a grommeted hole for the motor to push through but the new one does not have this. Does anyone have a template, or other way of marking out where to drill the hole in the door. I would prefer to try and get it right first time Having got the motor and seen what it comes with (not a lot) I now need to work out the rest of the bits I need. Also does anyone know what 3 pin plug I will need to get to do my own wiring harness for the motor? It has three flat pins in a row in a sort of oval housing. Thanks

OK I surrender I just thought you ought to be able to balance your thermos of coffee and mug on the top. Clearly this is only for wimps so I will put it back as was and re-join the real world! Thanks for the comments which were helpful, actually. Malcy

Oh well - must just be me! I do not think it is a "proper" cubby box - plywood covered with grey vinyl and a sort of tray at front. My gearbox is covered with a leather thingy. Perhaps I just stop drinking coffee but suspect I would then simply grind to a halt

I had a cubby box but removed it since I hated the top sitting on a slant (spilt coffee etc). I cannot believe all cubby boxes seem to have parallel edges so follow the slope of the seat box - or am I missing something? I tried to hash together some wooden wedges to level off but they fell apart quite quickly. I now want to refit so I can keep all the cabin cr*p in one place. How do you guys do yours??

Thanks for all the suggestions. Things have improved with the squirting of WD40; parking with the drivers door facing south rather than north and trying a sort of large rag around the lock and button at night. Very cold last night but no problems. Am becoming more convinced that actually a new lock is the answer but that begs the question of finding that once I get the card off it is a new door and then that in turn probably forces the issue of a new bulkhead to cope with the couple of holes that are appearing. Oh the joys and wonder of so much decision making. I just love it

Hah! Not silly at all! Exactly what I have done. Tonight the passenger door faces north. Of course it might mean both door locks freeze solid in which case I will really have some fun

OK and thanks. Will check the door card tomorrow (it must be long overdue a good thumping). It will surely be frozen solid tomorrow morning since it is serious brass monkeys outside tonight. In terms of key turning. Initially could not even get key into lock but after first liberal dosing with lock deicer I got the key in but it would not turn and I was not minded to force it lest key snapped. Once inside I tried lifting the lock slide at the top of the card. There was some movement but it would not release the lock (which is what makes me think it may be freezing outwith the lock mechanism as well as inside it)

Last few days my drivers door lock has been frozen solid. Managed to get some lock deicer into it today but it still would not open. Once I had climbed in from the passenger side and driven for 5 miles it opened OK so I think the issue may lie behind the door card. That said the lock is getting a bit loose and sloppy so perhaps it just fills with condensation and freezes. I wondered if this was a common issue and if there were known solutions to it. Thought I would ask before I start wrecking the door card by trying to remove it to see! Thanks

Thanks guys. That at least gives me some pointers to try and follow.