Mustardman

Much obliged

Apologies if this has already been covered...but does anyone know if there is any difference between 90 and 110 truck cabs? As in could you take the truck cab off a 110 and fit it to a 90 without modifications? Thanks in advance,

Thanks

Hi Chaps, Does anyone know how much a standard OEM defender front seat weighs? Did have a look on tinternet but didn't get anywhere useful, perhaps someone has one out the truck they could pop on the scales for me?

The first thing to check then is how far the oil as made it along the loom. Find the ECU under the drivers seat and pull off the red plug (releasing small lock tab first). If theres no oil, just change the injector harness and cam cover gasket. If there is oil but the engine is running fine, clean up the connector using solvent spray (its possible to remove the white locking plate to help) as well as changing the injector harness. Make sure the loom is genuine part. If the engine is miss firing then it's possible to stand the ECU up and try and drain it, or if you're feeling bold dismantle it and clean it up, but the risk is yours.

I went through this dilemma recently, Firstly I removed the regulator, cleaned it up and fitted new seals, it still leaked. I then bought a 2nd hand but not leaking regulator off ebay, it leaked. I then bought a genuine part from a main dealer for £137.50 which sorted it. My advice go genuine.

The front centre seat is 13.5" wide the frame and cushion are the same width. I'm little confused what you're after though as your first post mentioned middle row and your second post mentioned cubby boxes.

I would echo Si's thoughts, I had a TDS and never had any problems with it. Don't forget to budget for a wiring kit of appropriate size for the power of the winch and use high tensile bolts. Although more expensive using synthetic rope is well worth the money, once you've seen a steel cable fail you'll never want to go near one again. Synthetic just fails to the floor when it breaks, is light and easy to splice. If you can't stretch to the above it might be worth considering a hand winch, but unless its for very occasional use I'm sure you'll soon get tired of one.

Why are you considering the change? Is your current one knackered or do you to improve the heat output?

Looks good to me, don't forget you'll need 5 of each. While you've got the cam cover off might be worth considering changing the injector harness if you haven't done recently. Use a genuine one, it will only add about 10 minutes onto the job plus a little cost.

As above, if it's a TD5 might be time to change the injector seals.

Thank you to everyone who came to our open driving day today, I hope you enjoyed yourselves. We'll be holding another on the 12th October, keep an eye on our website (www.dorsetrover.co.uk) for details.

The post on our website had moved down to the 3rd page, the link 'older entries' at the bottom of the front page should take you there. Our facebook page is 'Dorset Land Rover Club Ltd,' if you search this and don't find the page please get back to me and I'll investigate what the problem is. The site is mainly sand/gravel based, some areas drain well where as others are likely to be very wet after all this rain. There really is something for everything, I was driving around in a new Freelander a few months ago without problem (choosing my route carefully!) but also got a trayback stuck on the same day somewhere else at the site.

We (Dorset Land Rover Club) are holding our first open driving day of the year at the huge site of Matchams nr Ringwood. Burger van & loo's on site. Suitable for all vehicles & abilities with free help & recoveries. Road legal vehicles only but can be trailered. For more info, see our website www.dorsetrover.co.uk, or our facebook page.

A bit of chalk on the side of the belt is an old trick, it might not silence the problem for long but might help you isolate the problem.

Ron I'll have my interior back in soon which you're welcome to try. Exmoor seats and some rather familiar looking mud rails.

Just an afterthought, when I took the door card off I found the build sheet stuck to the inside with all sorts of useful information including the colour code. Thought I'd mention it in case you had a door related job you could bring forward.

If you enter any form of competition welded type recovery points are generally not allowed, even if done professionally. If its for occasional use its hard to beat a standard tow ball and spreader plate.