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Binnman

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About Binnman

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    Ireland
  1. OK, maybe not an ideal subject among all you hardened Laners, but I would just love to find a way to fit electric adjustable mirrors to my '95 300 TDi. At my age, 70, I find I really miss the simplicity of using internal joy-sticks to vary the mirror angles as required while driving in perfect safety, which my wife's car had. I've been eyeing up various vans as possible doners, but can't decide which would give the best result. (I've no problem with making up some glassfibre cover between the existing hinge(s) and the 'new' Mirror(s)). Surely, somebody has carried out this conversion and I would love to hear how it went. Anybody?
  2. Hi Western, I had to go real cheap on the new Rev Counter as funds are low at present. It's got a 95mm face made by Veethree in India. I'm very happy with it from my testing yesterday. Instant and real smooth response to the throttle with a lovely clear numerals and a black face. On it, the closest I've got to actual revs is with the DIPs 1 & 3 down and DIP 2 up. That shows 1,400 revs at actual tick-over. I'm assuming tick-over should be around 800 RPM, so, until the Tacho that Red90 referred me to (above) arrives, I think that should be close enough once I get to adjust it with the fine-tune screw. You might wonder why a 95mm R/C. Well, my plan is to cut out the centre of the existing binnacle and replace it with a suitable material, having holes for the Speedo and the R/C evenly spaced with just one 52mm gauge* high between them, and surrounded by individual warning lights. I want these separate warning lights as I cannot see the existing bank of lights being mostly hidden by the steering wheel and frequently miss one even though I have raised my seat rail unless I lean forward. Those warning lights I cannot fit nicely on the revised binnacle will be located on the centre MUD console. * I plan on having the water temp gauge right in front of me, and move the other gauges over to the Mud console. Any thoughts on this? Thank you for all your kind advice/assistance. Ron. ===>
  3. Thank you, Red90. I've had a look at that item, and, as you say, it is really not expensive. I'll order one. 15 or so years ago, I was installing a replacement diesel engine in a boat and I had to borrow a contact tacho to set the Rev Counter in it, as they were outside my budget to buy at the time. BTW, I have a son living in Calgary. Sadly he's not really a L-R guy :-(
  4. Well on Monday (it's now Tues.) I wired up my new Rev Counter to +/- power and the "W" terminal and it worked just great. A little bit high on the revs and as I did not have a precision x-head screwdriver at the time, I could not adjust it down to some 800 or so revs. A little shopping trip to Maplins tonight got me a nice precision screwdriver set, so tomorrow I'll try to set the new R/C to read closer to reality. As regards the EGR ECU, I took it out late Sat., and went for an 80 mile drive yest. The Landy seemed livelier, but that may be just in my head as I have had the EGR pipe blocked off this long while. I also found the W/S wire in the (now redundant) ECU connection block in the Battery box. Think I'll extend that back up into the binnacle to feed the R/C. Means one less wire through the bulkhead. Once more, my grateful thanks to all who contributed to my query.
  5. Gee Guys. I'm embarrassed that so many of you have bothered to take my wiring query on board. Embarrassed but also really grateful. I think that the wiring diagrams provided, whilst very helpful, do not focus in on the detail of my model year (94-95). My Landy came with an EGR (the ECU for it rolls around the Battery Box.!), but as I have already blocked off the EGR and disconnected the wiring block going to it, I guess I can leave the existing W/S (thanks for the correction) wire off and connect a new wire from "W" to the Rev Counter. That will be a job for Monday; will report how I get on. My thanks to MMGEMINI, PaulMc, David Sparkes, Red90 and Western. You guys are wonderful! Until Monday.... Ron. ===>
  6. I thought it would be cool to have a Rev Counter in my 1995 D90 300TDi. I bought the instrument, and knowing that the signal needed to come from the "W" terminal on the Alt., I went to connect it up. But, but... there is already a White/Grey (Hope I'm right about that "Grey" as I'm a little-bit 'colour insensitive') wire attached to that "W" terminal and it disappears nicely into the loom, so not an after-market addition. In the photo attached, the W/G wire has been taken off the "W" terminal. My Def has no Rev Counter already fitted; it has just the standard Def 300TDi instruments. So why is that wire attached to "W"? Scratch head and look at Hynes. No joy there as no "W" wire is shown. More head scratching and search the 'net for a 1994-95 Def wiring diagram. Don't find one. Even more head scratching and contact friend/Auto Elctn. who tells me (from the photo I sent him) that my Alt is a Lucas A127, but he has no idea what that wire feeds. What to do? A.) Leave existing wire on "W" and add new wire to feed Rev Counter and hope not to release any Lucas smoke OR B.) Remove existing wire and see if anything does not work before connecting Rec Counter on its own? C.) Forget about having a Rev Counter.... no, not really. Would really appreciate any help with this. Ron. ===>
  7. Well Western and Mo, I now have a fully working rear window washer. A lovely warm sunny day here.... I found the non-return valve as you suggested, Western. Not a difficult job once the sun visor was undone. But, I could blow through it in both directions, no problem. I checked the graphic on the Front screen N/R valve to try to understand the graphic molded into the plastic. It went narrow bar (Resevoir) to wide bar (Jet), so that was the way I refitted the rear N/R valve. Still no water to rear window; scratch head and pull hose off rear jet unit. Press RW Pump switch. Loadsa water. Ergo, blockage in rear jet unit. Removed it and tried tiny drill bit to clean input hole; no joy. Fired up the compressor and let 150PSIs do their thing. [Memo to anybody who might do this; do not place a finger over one of the jets with 150PSI coming at you. I managed not to yell]. Bingo; a result. Happy days. Water on back window for wiper blade to splash about in. Put back the head-lining and spent 10 minutes squirting water on the back of the Landy. ;-) Got my new rear wiper blade out and quickly realised it should have been 13" and not 11". Back to Halfords for a quick exchange, AND got a Euro back! 2" longer and it was cheaper... Thank you both for giving me the confidence to tackle this job. I've had the Landy 5 years and the rear wash never worked before for me. Ron 1995 D90 CSW 300TDi
  8. Thanks, Mo. That is a handy hint about using black washer hose; I'll get it if I do indeed need to replace the existing front>rear run. Weather forecast is holding up for tomorrow. :-) Being retired has its compensations in that I can do the work when the sun shines and surf the 'net when it doesn't. Best, Ron. ===> 1995 D90 CSW 300 TDi
  9. Another bump! Really useful and interesting thread as I bought a bunch of Carling switches for my new MUD center console on a 'deal' from my local boat chandler. Yes, they were cheap, but also non-illuminated. The information here should help me add LEDs/Resistors to my switches ALTHOUGH I will need additional springs. Does anyone know if additional springs can be obtained or a suitable alternative? (They are awfully tiny). Cheers, Ron. 1995 D90 CSW
  10. Many thanks, Western. I'll give that a try when the rain clears; think it should be fine on Wed.! No garage and working outside :-( Very much appreciate the quick reply you made yesterday. With it being my 1st post, I thought it would take a day or two to appear on the site. Well done and thanks again. Ron. ===>
  11. Hi Folks, my first post here. Hi to Simon; very happy that you resolved this issue. I have the same type Defender CSW TDi '95... with exactly the same fault! The rear wash pump does not deliver water to the rear screen. The washer pump works when the knob is pushed in (I also swapped hoses and el. leads at the under-bonnet reservoir knowing that the front washer pump works 100%). However, the headlining is in place along with the rest of the trim apart from the section above the rear door where I have been poking about. I have not located the Non-return Valve for the rear screen, and am wondering if anybody could guide me as to where it might be located, please? I really don't want to have to remove the headlining, so perhaps it would be possible to run a new pipe through from pump to rear incorporating a new Non-return Valve. Any thoughts? Ron ===>
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