02GF74

Hello Mr Nonimouse. Dorset indeed and one tiny girl at the time we met, must be ready to take o-levels now - how time flies eeek!!! re: orrp - I have a look in once in a while and if the posts by Des are ignored, followed by the racists, homophobic and sexist ones, there is not much going on there. It's a strange place as the few orrp'ers I've met seem like nice chaps and chapesses yet it is almost compulsory to be as obnoxious as possible on the forum (note -that is not saying the ones are met are like that) ... and yes, it probably is my round - what you having h.o.g.? oh yeah, back to the question. I got response to mail sent to DVLA - basically the rolling 40 years was brought back and is intended to continue but we will only know at the next budget in April 2016. Also the v5 needs to be sent off to change to "historic vehicle" and can be easily done if the date of manufacture is stated on v5. The registration can remain the same (?? from memory). Hopefully I can get the lwt recommissioned by then; in middle of slicing of a welded-on bullbar to be able to fit original military bumper with bumperettes and other work. A foreseen problem is the exhaust, parts of which may need patching or replacing, not a simple task as it is 88 in series with a v8 so no off the shelf exhaust - I have a feeling it may be parts of early RR; the down pipe from the exhaust manifolds (rover p6) are the main concern. forgot to mention will/devon/cake shop/red 110 - any signs of activity? Rest assured no cats were waxoyled in the production of this post.

what sort of quantity of water is being lost? is it coming out of the exhaust or is leaking out of a perished or lose hose?

Honestly 5 years, is that all? this as been left for 51 years?!?!?! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-CORTINA-MK1-NEW-VEHICLE-NEVER-REGISTERED-/331636810700?hash=item4d371823cc:g:41MAAOSweW5VZwZQ

.... been a few years. so hello. Who's still here - hybrid from hell, fridge freezer, Les Henson, Les Brock, Nick with the orange RR, that Lovejoy fella in Dorset, White90???? Anyways .... my LWT was built in 1975 but is registered on 1982 Y plate. I believe the 40 years road tax is still rolling so it should be free now. I've yet to find and look at the V5 but have a feeling I need to re-register on '75 plate to get free tax. Any advice appreciated.

No need to guess, I have not. Ignoring the thinly veiled insult, we all know you should not do that but who can honestly say how they will react in a panic situation. It's one thing to sit at a keyboard saying what you will do nor not, another matter when you are standing with extinguisher in hand watching your pride and joy going up in flames. In any case you see see from my previous post that I am all for advocating leaving fire fighting to the experts: anyway that is neitehr here nor there;

Bullock? Don;t see how you can say that since I have not given any information on how I gather my statistics. For you information the smaple was specailly chosen to give me the result I wanted. You stat stics are based on what? The fact that your truck catches fire once a year? I am not aware of any manufacturere deliberately desingin that featue in to their vehicles so either your vehicles is poorly maintinaed or you are using it in a way it was not designed for. Aside from that, I agree with you about safety precaution just wanted to put it in perspective about not getting carried away and gung-ho about fire fighting.

I would tend to disagree. You know the saying, give a man a fish, and you feed him for one day. Give hime a fish rod and you feed him for life. Change to give a man a fire extinguisher, and you turn him into a would be hero fire fighter who may seriously injure or kill himself trying to put a fire out, don't give hime an extinguisher he runs away. This forum has been running for years and people have made countless journeys and now we have one fire there is a knee-jerk reaction to tonking ourselves up with fire fighting equipment. Let's face it, statistically it is not likely your truck is going to go up in flames. If it does, will you be able to keep a cool head to deal with the fire? Will it be possible to predict if the fire extinuisger will work or be enough to put the fire out? Unless you are a fireman used to these type of sitatuations the chances are probably not. I am not expert on fire extinguisers but reckon you have got to be prett close to put out a fire and if it is fuel related, you probalby have no way pof knowing what will happen next. I bet the fire brigade don;t go anywere near bruning vehicles bout would use their hoses from a safe difference. Without having any fire fighting equipment, you have no option but to get the hell out - the safest option. Not mean to have a go at anyone but let's not be carried away by this - a truck can be replaced, people can't.

... that is used to coat the inside of jerry cans? and can it be bought in tiny quantities? I need to restor the edge of the filler on one jerry can, the theeroy being that if the edge is nice and smooth it will give the best seal agaisnt the rubber seal so any suggestion on how to do this? (thinkg of cleaning the steel then putting on some plumbers solder nasd filing it down smooth).

Can you shed some details about this company? web site info?

^^^-- maybe just turn the engine over by hand to look for tight spots before the battery whizzing? how many miles has the enigne since since rebuild? new and rebuilt engines, certainly in the past had a running in procedure and would be "tight" until bedded in - could this be the reason or part of the reason? is there any possibilty of wrong size piston/rings for the bore or shells the wrong size? again check all the cables for poor connections - terminal faces are clean, crimps tight and clean - any points of high resistance you should be able to feel by hand as being hot.

Here we go, found the article that I referred to earlier. As usual, it is some stuff off the web that may or may not be true but seems reasonable going by the trend of using aluminium instead of copper (still reckon cost is a big factor too).

pretty sure it is copper. * so why are radiators now may of aluminium? I had the answer to this but most likely it is cost and by redesigning the radiator, it still will shift the heat required for the given engine. * quick googles say that is so; silver is the only common metal that is better. note you say "given 2 equal rads" - the design of copper cored rads is different to ali; so without knowing the ins and aout, you may find that an alumimium type radaitor made from copper may not be as good as an aluminium one.

It sounds like you have discovered ohms law. Power = V 2 / R The starter motor windings and cabling are metal whcih has a positive coefficient of resistane i.e. the hotter it gets, the higher its resistance. When you turn the motor, its internal resistance causes it to heat up further increasing its resistnce thus reducing the current to it. As the current gets less, the motor will become sluggish as less power is going through it. Starter motors, as their name suggests, are for flicking the engine for a couple of seconds and are not desinged for continous use. Whilst running the starter motor you are depleting the amount of power in the battery which is working against you. If the motor spins at the same speed once when cold with battery fully charged, that kinda would indicate that all is fine. Remove the plugs and whizz the engine over - it should run at constant speed - any unevenness could indicate ring gear problem. But isn't the real problem why you engine does not fire after a couple of turns?

The oil retruns to the engine via the central bolt hole. The mocal sandwich plates IMO are wrong as they take the oil to the cooler first; the filter works best with hot oil. Maybe I missed something about the vaseline? Not had problem priming that way although I did whizz the pump round too after my rebuild. I have found that using a cordless drill on the low speed gives the best results - you don't want to use a powerful electric one as you can injure yourself due to the kick when the pump primes.

^^^^^ don't listen to them, they are all wrong! cheapest, and I did loads of reasearch, is Vehicle Wiring Products; mail order and internet. I plumbed my lightweight v8 with 6 mm and 8 mm hose - the proper stuff, not hose and covering - about 4+ years ago and have had no problems with it. Make sure you buy the rubber end bits (fits over both 6 and 8 mm) and the hose clips, all from the same place, much cheapness.

as far as I can tell, these are studs welded to the tops as ^^^^ says. I reckon they are some UNF size; and from memory the nut is 11/16 AF so assuming it is standard sized nut, the bolt diamater can be derived from that info.

or getting it wrong Otherwise we'd ever need to buy one drill in any size. (but it wouldn't be good business to make an indestructible drill ).

have you seen the registration document? Is the engine the origainl engine? maybe that dies and you are looking at a partially rebuilt replacement perhaps? does the engine bay/engine look like its been in deep water? best advice I can give is to factor a replacement engine into the asking price and then see if it is still worth while.

before you fit the locking cap, get your firend to mix in some sugar* into the diesel as that is know to stop it "evaoprating". you would needto flush the tank out afterwards. * or is that for petrol?

3 position forrward - o/d in middle - neutral back - o/d out You fit the knob so the you can read the writing the right way up.

Why do you say that? I've got the one-shot stuff in my swirvels for the reasons stated above and when I took the fronts apart to fit stage 1 brakes, the UJ was covered in the grey/silvery stuff. I did not look at the top swivle pin but the inside surface was covered in grease so I would assume that was being lubricated.

I would not recomment the screwfix cutter; The stepped on did about 2 holes then died (admittedly it seem thye have changed the part as now it is coloured yellow but still...). these sell for about £ 25 so if you find one for a tenner, you need to ask yourself why that is? (as I found to my cost )(

as Lenson says. silicone fluid is not hydroscoic (?) i.e. does not absorb water whcih is a good and a bad thing; the bad thing being the water being denser will sink to the lowest part of the system i.e. the brake cylinders nad rust them. Just to jigack the thread, I often wonder how water can get into the brake system. It is sealed apart from miute vent in cap. Tthe interface for water abstoption is the area inside the master cylinder and take in to account the amount of watervapoour in the air, surelyif one did the math, the amount is miniscule?

nige beat me to it; there is mucho demand for these - front and rear wings and dash boards mainly depends on how much you can sell them for. give you some idea; front GRP wings come in around £30 a pair; CF around £ 100. I am sure if you could do CF for £ 50 you would sell a few; I'd be interseted for one

didn't quite follow ^^^ wot you are doing but Rally Design do longer wheel studs; they are ford car aplications so would be smaller diameter I think.