02GF74

Last confirmed sighting was in the back of an ambulance being taking to hospital for multiple burns and shock after attempting to remove a neighbour's gas pipe (big bore copper) with an angle grinder. Stupid thing to do, should have used a hacksaw. Prior to that, the uses for copper tubing were taken to another level by using the aforementiond material to convert a battery with bolt type terminals for use on a Land Rover that had leads made up for the cone type terminals. Look below and be amazed.

although I don't post here anymore, I thought it would be useful to let folks be aware of the dangers as described in here

quote name='Bull Bar Cowboy' date='Oct 12 2006, 02:10 PM' post='92055'] Dear O2, As you like to discuss issues in the public domain........... It would seem that you are not being particularly polite or perhaps your grasp of English diplomacy is a little lacking………. It would also seem that every time I post, you have something negative or a problem with the content. For me there are two options in this matter, 1) Ignore your negative comments as I don’t have to answer to anybody. 2) As in your eyes, I seem to adding little or no value to the forum, then perhaps I should refrain from posting here any more. Option 2 seems to be the most appealing art the moment. BTW: do you live near the sea …….. have you ever worked on outboard motors or small boat propellers …….. have you never seen cavitation damage to these items or the internals of boat engines …………. the impellor of the V8 water pump is much harder then the ali casing …….. once you have seen cavitation damage, it is not difficult to recognise …….. but what the f&*k do I know. I would like to add that it has been nice being here and I have made many friends …….. however, my future here is now uncertain ………….I don’t know that I can be bothered with something that is becoming annoying and a chore. Ian Ian, Please tell me why my question was not polite? How does it differ to the post recently asking what is everyone's area of expertise? Same question using different words if you think about it. I haven't looked in that thread but don't recall you having a problem with it. But now you do? As for being polite, look at your response in the "alternators" thread, trying to pre-empt one of my questions that has since been edited. In my opinion that was rude and uncalled for. I can only guess it was in response to my question about using more efficient bulbs. What is wrong with asking that? Bulb technology is moving on, brighter and more efficient bulbs are appearing on the makret, soon we will have LED headlamps and not everyone knows about them so I thought that was a perfectly valid question yet somehow it caused you a problem. I am puzzled. That is the only post I cna think of that you have got into your head that I am being negative to your posts (I didn't want to raise that but I have unfortunately; it is under the bridge and it doesn't bother me). Your name hasn't gone in the little black book for me to get "my own back", I can't be bothered with anything like that plus the book is full!! This cavitation question has nothing to do with that, believe it or not. If you have examples of where I have said something negative about your posts (all of them?!?!!) then I'd be interested to see examples (but not too many as I know you post a lot). I think ther is a bit of over reaction here. I do not keep tabs to figure out who is qualified in which field so I have no idea where your expertise lies and I really want to know about the cavitation damage. (I have SD1 alloy timing cover running a smaller water pump pulley, approx 20% so it is in my interest to know if I am going to get these problems). Remember forums are not the same as having a conversation as you loose a lot of information in the human voice, maybe that was what was missing from my question, and that often lead to misunderstanding. I hope you don;lt decide from posting here, but if you do, at least answer this last question. Thank you for your support Al. Did you actually take a look at my posts to figure out this trend for yourself or or did you just go along with the others who responded on this thread? And how many of the posts on here and could be answered by doing a search somewhere else? And where is the sense in me to look/search somewhere else if it appears that there is someone on here who is able to answer my very specific question is on this forum. What does surprise and disappoint me is the respones of quite a few other people "ganging up on me". That has happened before (I think you know the trhead I refer to) and that is just wrong.

No I do live by the sea. No I have not worked on propellors. No I have not seen cavitation damage. No I donlt know what you know. THAT IS EXACTLY WHY I AM ASKING!. WHAT IS WRONG WITH THAT!?

I am not having a go at him; I did consider PM but thought others would benefit. I can do PM - makes no difference to me; no different to the drawn out discussion on anti-freeze.

Can I politely ask how are you qualified to know the timing cover is damaged due to cavitation? Do you work in this field, heard it from someone else or speculation? I am not saying you are wrong or anything, just curious. My knowledge on cavitation is pretty limited - it happens when you try to push water so fast that the pressure created causes instanteantous vaporsisation (ok, that may not be right but is close) and the effect is that instead of pushing against water e.g. a propeller, it is pushing against little bubbles of gas so is less efficient. I can also imagine, and this is guesswork since I have not looked into this, that the vaporisation causes tiny explosions, and it the shockways from these that over time cause fractures in the metal. (specualation since I do not know the type of damage you mention). As I said in the original post - but re-read it and I think I used higher instead of lower - me bad ) - the rpm that cavitation would occur would be lower if you have a smaller water pulley. by the time the EFI engine came out, I would imagine Rover had quite a few years of data/failures/experience to know what size pulley to fit on the water pump for the max. rpm of the engine so am a bit surprised that this problem occurs. Is it just the RR EFI or did it affect the carb P6 and RR? All this means is that the engine shouldn't be revved as high so in the case of the orignal poster, that should not be the issue since the hot engine syndrome is occuring offroad at low speed and probably at lowish rpm, certainly shouldn't be redlining the engine (speculation on my part).

I don't understand this response^^^^; All I can say is that I find it somewhat rude. TC, like myself was trying to help you; dunno why I bothered. I won't go back to re-read all the stuff but this is the first time the pulley being smaller than standard was mentioned. Secondly what if the system has more water - all it means there is more mass to contain the heat but unless you can shift the heat out, it isn't really going to help - for example you can double the size of the radiator but if there is no air flow, then I think you would agree that would not help.

Maybe giving your Rangie a good wash will sort out your chassis problems? World most expensive car wash

congratulations - that must have been some jump!!! Can't see anything to be worried about. Check if everything is still aligned but since 2 sides are unbent, I'd be surprised if chassis is any more out than when they leave the factory. The side bulge can be bashed in or pressed in if you have jinourmous G-clamp. the bottom - dunno, leave as is. As an aside, the series chassis, ASAIK, was 4 plates welded to amke the box - are they susceptible to this sort of damge?

there is a special tool for these; the two flag bits are bent over to end up in a B shape, if you know what I mean. I don't use them but have crimped something similar. I use the cheapie tool for the insulated spades - it has oval crimping zones for red/blue/yellow terminals. Once I have the flags squeezed into a round/oval, I move the connector in the tool so that the very tip is pressing on the connector - the end having a semi-circle shape - and use that to get the B or a figure of 8ish shape. Have parctice first - test by giving a good tug - the it comes apart, you done it wrong.

You have bigger cylinders burning more few = more heat. Having bigger cylinders mean that water jacket is smaller = less water. so from the 2 above, you are heating up less water (than say 3.5) with bigger heaters so it is gonna run hotter than say again, 3.5 l. Expanded mesh - eeeeeeyak - don't like it myself - B&Q sell it - prefer stainless steel wire mesh - there are 2 companies in UK that do this from microscopic size to reinforrced contrete mesh size. Nothing earth shattering there. Now would increasing the water flow through the engine be of benefit? With the type of driving - chugging at low speed at relatively low rpm - you may benefit from a smaller diameter water pulley. I have one of those fitted - cutsom made - can send you details - that is minimum size that fits the P6 water pump (yours would be RR so dunno how small you can go). A smaller pulley means the WP turns faster but then you hit the probem of cavitation (another good word) at higher rpm, whether this will happen I donl;t know but I doubt it - it would be todards the red line or beyond. I am trying to get my head around radiator cooling and stuff - there are lost of varaibles - fin area, temperature, air flow, water flow, thermal conductivity etc: without having any data, it is next to impossible to calculate what is best. For example water flow in the radiator. Is there an optimum rate? Too fast and there is 'not enough time' for the heat to get from the water to the metal and to the air? Too slow, thew water get too cool in the radiator but at the same time the water in the engine is getting too hot as the hot water is not being replaced by the cold quiclkly enough? that kind ^^^^ of stuff - can't really express myself to make the point. By the way, where did you get the cat rad from? are they avaialbe in smaller - say S3 sizes? Is it copper cored or aluminium. I'll dig out an article about radiator design/fins and send to ya - may be of interest.

Once I pass my SVA, I plan to drive irrespective of the weather unless it is raining, so for UK limits me to about 5 days per year So I'm thinking of getting a nice woolly flying jacket, such as this Has anyone bought one of these or recommend another brand? Ideally low price but want a 100% leather one so leather outside and proper sheepskin inside - not wool on cloth.

You can blame Geoffrey and Bungle for that!

no, formula27, but a 7-type rep. this is how it looked after failing the SVA (oh, I shouldn't say this but Mac#1 are reckoned to be the bees kness...) you're not making a BEC?

me there is some more on here: http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/ in "more lights" section; rather expesnive. you need to be aware that the fog lamp surface must be vertical.

one of these? the lamps on the back of tesco lorries are LED and are lovely, need to pop down there one night with a screwdriver and pliers. I have those block lamps too. ^^^^ same piccy B)

there is no hose running from the block as fas as I know? if carb model, then a small hose, like the one you describe comes out of the front of the inlet manifold - this I believe is an air bleed; - well, you ain't gonna gat a huge amount of flow thru such a tiny tube - I have seen engines with this blocked off that presumably were running fine. Dunnoi if there is equivalent on an EFI.

were they the same cakes as before? what about weather conditions?

one word: B&Q microbore tubing - you can flare the ends using a brake pipe flaring tool or solder on an olive. On hte LWT, I am using braided hose ffrom VWP - been on there approx 4 years; no leaks as yet.

whoa, before we get carried away, let's go back to this picture. Your wiring is buggy, there seems to be dead beetle inside the fusebox

dunno about Ian or his truck. I am finishing off a kit car hance my comment about the braided hoses; one or two other folks on here have put their Land Rovers through SVA so thought I'd spread the word to help. The cost difference between the olive/nut tupe and crimped Goodridges (plus you get certificate if bought from Rally Design) is not that much; I ended up two sets, one of each

how did they break? pulled apart, fractured due to movement, incorrect assembly or other? BTW the crimped goodridge fitting are the onlky braided hoses that are allowed by SVA - the screw together fail due to not being tamperproof (unless you can provide evidence of them having an internal support).

this is common practice in the kit car world - i.e. using bike TBs on a car inlet manifold with very good improvent over carbs - both pereformance, economy (not that that mattters) and emissions wise. the obvious thing is to select the right size bodies - a bike can fule a car engine up to 2x its capacity so a 1000 cc each sied will do you up to 4 litre no probs. The other thing is the body spacing. I have not seen these BMW ones before but japanese bike ones are paired or individual, the latter give you most felxibilty on spacing. then you make a flange out of steel or ali and weld on tubes to match the inlet ports to the bodies - the connection between the manifold tubes and TBS can be done using rubber tubes. obviously you would be using megasquirt or smilar tuneable efi. you may be tight on space on the v8 but I am sure I have seen it done; I was right, here we go. luvly B) !!!?!?!?!?! and on another v8:

wot is wrong with britpart jobby? the proper v8 one has a small hole with a joggle pin float doobrie that you don't get on the britpart nor the ones in halfords - you can just dirll a 2 m hole and job done.

I have ut the side of bonnet (s3 LWT) and used mesh with a betal inside to direct air flow out and stop water in. yours are on horizontal surface so a big hole may not be such a greate idea - the louvres will stop waer going in when driving. easiest/cheapest is to get won to B&Q and fit thier aluminium (or shiny brass - stronger but more ££) to the bonnet. come in 3 or 4 length - and also available with a shutter to close of entirely. I used one on my kit car bonnet.