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Pastycrimper last won the day on May 5 2015

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  1. What a great thread. Mine took 3 years (albeit over two of them rotting in a field while more stuff got shot blasted and sent for galving, or bought new and sent for galving). What I will say......if you love the vehicle for yourself and have no intention of ever selling it, then take as long as you want. As is seen above, the time taken to do something on a landy is pretty versatile. My opinion (and my experience) is that if you intend on keeping this vehicle for ever, then just re-chassis-ing on a galved chassis is great but somewhat pointless for the very very long term. If you are going in for the long term, then you should: Galvanise every single piece of mild steel on the beauty.....there's a lot of it, but primarily everything that fits on the bulkhead and chassis. Then, paint every galvanised piece properly (Buzzweld now doing a direct to galvanise CIO, else properly use mordant solution and age and then a really decent paint) Put some form of "electrolytic insulation" between EVERY dis-similar metal surface possible to prevent any electrolytic corrosion . For example, additionally use nylon washers when M4 SS meets aluminium. Where possible replace all fixings, nuts, bolts with proper M4 (316) stainless steel (Note there's a lot of "fake" SS about - a very strong magnet is always a simple quick check). Remembering of course that many load bearing (e.g. suspension) bolts must be original spec as SS isn't strong enough for some applications. When you get to this point, you go marine SS brake lines and unions, loads of SS sills and stuff from YRM Sadly the above costs s**t loads and "the plan" cost me 2 years more than I planned and 4 x my original budget and I didn't even do it! However it in theory should now out live me (structurally speaking) Or less than a week, if you know what you are doing (unlike me) and have useful extremely useful helpers. OR even quicker as per the above videos and comments. Sorry for teaching grandma to suck eggs and Sorry for the unhelpful useless answer. My favourite Cornish slang is the word "Drekly" - meaning anytime between 1 second and a thousand years. Good luck
  2. Thanks - a simple solution! I was considering this myself but I have already wired my winch controller and the new heated front and rear screens into the front panel so the little cover behind is already jam loaded (PS thanks for your great write up on installing a TD5 instrument panel into a 300TDI that Landroversforever and Ralph pointed me too!)
  3. I just assumed any head unit would fit in. Mine looks the same length as old ones I used to have. In retrospect had I known this before I purchased the stereo I'd have deliberately looked for one with a shorter head unit. Ho hum.....I think I'm just gonna have to cram them in there or not use the head unit mounting bracket and just let it sit loose in the gap protruding out an inch or so
  4. OK so I used to have a Mobile-Storage-Systems centre storage box between driver and passenger seat which housed my stereo. I have now done away with the stereo holding part and got a second hand LR dashboard single DIN mount (AWR2277LOY) which is shown in picture below - I assumed this would be a simple slot in, connect wires and go job! The bleddy DIN hole is not cut right - it's too small so I have had to cut it wider with a Stanley so the stereo mounting/locking bracket can fit in More annoyingly though, with front and rear speaker cables (Good quality so wider than normal LR wires), a boosted DAB and FM aerial (i.e. two separate antenna cables and an additional +12V supply wire) and the normal power ISO connector, I just don't think there is simply enough room for it all to fit. With serious force I can kind of get it all down and in but the wires are then so squished and crushed I am not very happy with it as a long term solution. I'm now considering cutting all of the ISO connectors off and shortening all the remaining wires as much as possible and hard soldering them but even then it will be a squeeze I'm sure. Anyone faced this with this mount? And if so, come up with a solution that is tidy and not crushing wires?
  5. Well this must be a recent thing! I've just done some research. I think the DUtch setup Marktplaats before ebay existed and ebay merged/bought them in 2004 but continued to use the Marktplaatz site. Obviously that has changed. Additional: There are a lot more LRs on the Maarktplaatz site than ebay.nl! So I'd still use that if you wree looking for a vehicle in Holland
  6. I will do. When I called him in January he didn't have any in stock. But said he could make me one up and would get back to me. He emailed me 1 day later to say he one ready and shipped it straight from Holland which was perfect as the buklhead and engine loom were going in at that time. I then found out that our chief engineer is a good friend of his. There's a lovely tight-knit community of Dutch LR folks! On this subject I was asking about why I couldn't find any Landys on Ebay in Holland. The answer being ebay is not allowed in Holland and they use MarktPlatz so if anyone is interested in finding LRs for sale in Holland here's the link: https://www.marktplaats.nl/z.html?categoryId=124&attributes=model%2CSeries&priceTo=&attributes=&attributes=&yearFrom=&lastPage=l1Cars&newAttributeFormat=true&nl.marktplaats.xsrf.token=1527543589644.68d6a586534a1ec007b874de223ce773
  7. Thanks Red90. How wrong I was! When you say specific temperature, how specific? My knowledge of wax is as it starts to melt there is a range over which is goes from viscous to less viscous - it's this range I am interested in - as in it doesn't go instantly from full solid to liquid at precisely 88 degrees. Me and my Dad years ago gathered a collection of stats from his shed and out of a S2A and S3 and my 300tdi and warmed them slowly in a pan to try and establish which of his spares was which, and yes they did open at different temps, however visually it looked like the opening was over a range of 1 to 3 degrees rather than say a 0.5 degree range.
  8. Hi Ralph, I had this fitted during the rebuild. Dutch Martin is a really nice man - I'm certain he would have welcomed your comments. Ironically I had been looking for this as I had seen it somewhere on a forum a few years back and thought it was Norwegian. Even more ironically his shop is 2 miles from where they moor the ship I work on (Moerdijk). I have literally been so close to him for years and yet never knew he was there! I am visiting him in person in a few weeks when I go back to work in Holland. Clearly from posts above the great members of LR4x4 also have them fitted. It definitely blows more air on max! Ziggy
  9. I'm just being unnecessarily nerdy! Given stats are bimetallic mechanically actuated I suspect they have a small range over which they open...as in it is not just fully open/fully closed at half a degree either side off 88. Either way I may get the PRT sender and guage. As mentioned above we use them on the HPUs of our subsea machinery as we have to really closely monitor subsea hydraulic equipment temps. They're very accurate and relatively cheap.
  10. Nice gauges Ralph! I, like you, like to know what is going on. Interesting in your thread above on your journey to Swindon and back you said the temp was sat at 85 degrees. This now intrigues me about the thermostat which I assume only opens at 88 degrees, or does it start partially opening before 88 degrees? I guess you can sense where I am going here.........was your thermostat always closed (not very likely) or is it that 200/300tdi's seem so good at holding running temperature that on a long drive (without heavy loads or silly hills) the thermostat is opening and closing quite frequently? My assumption is that at running temp at idle the thermostat would be open.........time to get a heat proof, water proof mini endoscopic camera with LED drilled onto the the thermostat housing and a small screen on the dash so I can watch live video of my thermostat while driving!
  11. Well I couldn't ask for more than that! And then delving into the thread @dailysleaze linked above satisfied all of my curiosity especially the picture of the circuitry in the speedo which I suspected was more than just a resistor or two. I'll get the green collar in tomorrow as I think the wiring is currently as Retroanaconda's diagram now. Although I am now distracted by third party senders and gauges namely this sender (https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=134) with this gauge (https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_21&products_id=504). Side question - what should be the normal running temp of a 300TDI under normal conditions? And what temperature is considered the start of bad things happening for a 300tdi - If the needle is in the red what temp does that indicate? Prior to rebuild (and aside from a rad issue I had once) I think as fro most people my gauge always sat just fractionally below half way. Only once towing a heavy trailer up what us Cornish call Pig Sh*t Hill on the A30 did the gauge run up to about 2/3rds. What temp is that and would a 300tdi keep running happily at this temp? Anyway I'm pretty skittish about engine temps and I'd prefer to know the numerical value rather than a needle.
  12. VDO - that was the name I was trying to remember! In the offshore world I use PRT (platinum resistance thermometer) for seawater temperature and these are very accurate (O.1 deg) (PRT) - Not sure what technology VDO use but was wondering if there are PRT sensors and matching guage. It would be nice to know exactly what temp the coolant is
  13. Alternatively has anyone found a third party more accurate temp sensor that screw into the same thread and sends to an external dial accurate temperatures?
  14. I'm Looking at the 2002MY diagrams. For a TD5, the sender unit (sensor) has two connectors which go straight to the ECM and then one wire to goes from ECM to speedo and then to the guage. However for TDI variant, in the same diagrams it says connect the sender direct to the gauge. I've attached screenshots of these which I have very terribly tried to annotate in red showing the TDI wiring not the TD5. So I think "rest-of-world wiring" is to bypass the speedo and go straight from sender to guage Especially if there is a resistor in the speedo and God knows what voltage changes happen in the ECM for TD5.
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