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Pollywog last won the day on April 22 2014

Pollywog had the most liked content!

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About Pollywog

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    Malvern, Worcestershire
  1. I have a 90 pedal with the early type 50 servo and master cylinder but I'm running discs up front. The pedal assembly itself bolts straight into position but I had to chop off the pedal and re-weld it on as its slightly longer than the series pedal, also you'll need metric bolts.
  2. Easier to drill and tap the diff case to fit a small plug. Or look for a series 3 axle case with a filler already in the pan.
  3. Thank you very much Kimberly you're a great help. Unfortunately that would put my ignition barrel behind the dashboard... oh well homemade it is.
  4. Thanks, no I think I can work around everything else it's just that one measurement that will tell me if it's possible or not.
  5. I'm looking at putting a full Defender dashboard assembly into a Series 3 Lightweight but need a measurement to see if it will fit. I already have a Defender steering column & surround fitted when I went to PAS but I fitted it to suit my driving position and wonder if it may be too close to the bulkhead to allow a full standard dash to be fitted behind it. Could someone be so kind as to measure the depth of the lower dash panel from the flat of the bulkhead to the front edge of the lower dash? I know the binnacle is the deepest part but that doesn't matter as I'll be building in a Discov
  6. If you want to do away with the split pins how about knocking up something like this: http://www.seriesoneshop.com/contents/media/l_217254.jpg
  7. Didn't they stop adding reinforcing when they changed the axle design in 80/81? I would imagine that they are not using the extended shackles due to lift caused by the parabolics as it looks to be sitting high already? The tray in the photographs is the tool tray style tray, I believe it's fitted the wrong way around as the projection you can see at the front is designed to hold the rear edge of the flat cover. FFR battery trays do not have that projection and instead have an upturned lip all the way around the outer flange to hold the raised lid in place.
  8. Defender roof bars will fit a Series roof, I have a pair of Halfords bars for mine you can pick up second hand sets on eBay for about £25. If you're moving 8x4' sheets it may pay to fix some batten between the bars to support the centre of the sheets.
  9. I hope you manage to get hold of Zeus to sort it out but as a side it may be worth contacting http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk they should be able to make some new good quality discs for you.
  10. We managed to sort the wet floor in my Dad's old Freelander 1; If you remove the exterior trim from above the back door you will see 5 screws, silicone those screws up well and then put the trim back on and see if that makes a difference.
  11. I went with the 'genuine parts' mounts from Paddocks and yes they came in blue bags but they have been perfectly fine and I'm very happy with them. I didn't need to trim off as much as shown above I just scalloped the top edge slightly. The biggest change to vibration levels came with changing the gearbox mounts to the same type as the engine. Those mounts I bought loose from a show but I think they are allmakes.
  12. ABS Freestyle / Funbuggie, it's a mini based kit. I'd love one!
  13. Yes I've stuck with bog standard prop yolks but I don't have any lift on my truck, it's running GME parabolics and Procomp shocks so get good articulation but at standard height. Tuko is running on coils so has more call for the wide angle props, and with Ejparrot's longer wheel base he shouldn't have any issues. I think Mikey has Rocky Mountain springs on his 88" which give some lift so it would be interesting to know how he gets on with the standard yolks. Do you have a part number for the skinny Rangie prop? Is it the same length as the Disco one? One thing I did note with the Disco pro
  14. Mine were shortened, re-balanced, & re-phased for £35 each by Proptech in Hartlebury near Kidderminster.
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