Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Escape

  1. Are you sure the problem is between BECM en GEMS? If it has been standing for some time, I'd start with the EKA code. But then you'd get 'engine disabled' on the message center. Nobody with a Rovacom or similar nearby? I'd gladly help, but a bit far away... Filip
  2. That's false economy I fear. By connecting the bags side to side, you lose a lot of stability. The only thing keeping the body roll in check will be the front anti roll bar and the resistance of the rear trailing arms. Later LRs use this to increase articulation when offroading, and overcome the limitations of independant suspension. I'm gonna add a valve (or valves, I'll start with the front) to do the same in my P38, but even I will add a saftey so I can't accidentally use it on road as that would be properly dangerous. The price of an inflation connector isn't much more than a T-piece, so I just carry 4 inflators for emergency use. The line to the tank can spring a leak where it crosses over the chassis. Or melt if you have an exhaust leak. Not too hard to replace and I can only echo the above, the system is pretty good and it's a real shame to convert to coils. Filip
  3. The blower motors each have a fuse (34 and 43) and relay (6 and 7) in the engine compartement fuse box, to supply power. Each blowermotor also has a built-in relay, controlled by the HEVAC. So not that easy to check, unfortunately. If you can read the fault codes, that could provide a clue, there is a feedback line from the motors to the HEVAC. Wiring is direct, only connectors at the HEVAC and blower end, so that is unlikely to be the problem. Filip
  4. I got into a bit off a difficult situation regarding Brittpart yesterday. A mate came by with a box of goodies, he had just traded in his RRC V8 for a P38 DSE (and a waddle of cash) so wanted to give me the spares he still had for the RRC. Unfortunately a lot of blue boxes... I know he meant well, he's a great guy, but I couldn't help but cringe when I saw a Brittpart branded valley gasket! Such a cheap part regardless of manufacturer, and so much potential trouble if the fit isn't perfect or worse, you have to redo the job because it fails prematurely...
  5. We've been using a big DeWalt (DCF889) at the workshop for almost 4 years now. Very useful, though it does have its limitations. For heavy stuff, you need to make sure the battery is fully charged. Very handy to take with you, for example when we come over to UK to play and need to change wheels. I couldn't imagine coping without it, now that I've got so used to it. Before we had a similar corded one, I do think it was slightly more powerful. As above, if you don't need to be able to take it with you, no need to pay the premium for cordless. I don't like airtools as that means there's a compressor running (somewhere) most of the time, so can't compare to those. If I were to replace, I'd consider the recent Milwaukee 2763. Supposedly the strongest one available, and comes with 2 setting for fastening, to avoid overtightening. We're very impressed with our Milwaukee battery powered ratchet, so if the impact is similar quality, it might just be worth the high price. My experiences with cheap alternatives for cordless tools have been less positive. I can understand not wanting to pay for a Milwaukee or DeWalt, but you don't want to grab a tool and find it can't cope or fails prematurely either. All depends on intended use of course. Filip
  6. Good thing it's too far away for me to go and have a look! Some very interesting projects there, if the price is right.
  7. I'm hoping it is indeed the EGRs. Just strange that the problem seems to have become worse (i.e. new leaks occured) after the EGRs were replaced.
  8. A while ago I had a TDV6 come in that was low on power unless revved hard. I found codes for the EGR and as they had done almost 200k miles decided to replace the valves. It turned out one was instead stuck open. However, before the new parts arrived, a new problem develloped: lack of power when pushed and a lot of black smoke. When I replaced the EGR valves, I also found a leak in the throttle body. It looked like something had melted through from the inside. I tried a temporary fix with JB weld, that seemed to hold but the next day 2 new leaks appeared in the housing. I put it down to the plastic being weakend by the EGR sticking open and replaced the housing. All well for a testdrive, then another leak, this time in the LH inlet manifold. Again it looks like something burned through. The EGR valves being new, should do their job. Exhaust gas coolers seemed OK, no visual leaks. There is a reasonable amount of oil in the intake, which I put down to the mileage. Before replacing the manifold, I'd like some opinions on a possible cause. I don't want to just throw parts at the problem until it goes away... FYI, the car is a 2008 RRS, but I decided to post here because there seems to be more knowledge about the engine in the D3 and I didn't want to exclude anyone. Filip
  9. Another vote to go for it! Although I think the Classic is better looking (especially the 2-door!) I'm properly hooked on P38s. Nice to drive on everyday, even with all the electronics you still get a good driving experience, not detached like in more modern offerings. Offroad you'll get plenty of attention and really appreciate the comfort and ease you can tackle most obstacles with. The V8 manual is lovely, even more so if you upgrade from a 4.0 to a 4.6 or bigger. 8-) Filip
  10. A boost gauge is fun to watch, especially in a sports car, but not that usefull in simple diesel. As above, make sure the wastegate is free, and properly set up. You can use a compressor and tyre gauge to check when it starts to open, should be just above 2bar. Set it like that, take it for a drive with the Nanocom to verify, adjust if needed and then you'll no longer have much need for a gauge. Fiip
  11. I take it you mean the viscous coupling for the center diff? It's definitely easier with the cross member lose, so the transfer box can be lowered a bit. You don't need to take it out competely, so refitting will be easier. I seem to recall the Y-pipe gets a bit in the way as well... Filip
  12. Land Rover did specify ATF at some point, to make the gear changes easier, especially in cold weather. I've always prefered MTF GL5, even if it takes a bit more effort after a cold start. It soon gets better and it should provide better lubrication under high load.
  13. Hey Max, what's going on with Chula? Any progress? Greetz, Filip
  14. A bit overdue, but I got some feedback from the Disco. They had the ECU checked, and that showed no faults. His son decided to check timing, and found the chain had jumped a tooth! No idea how that could have happend. After setting the timing, the engine starts and runs again as it should. They immediately took the car on a holiday and covered over 3500miles on a trip through Europe. All's well that ends well! And I'll make sure to check timing next time I have a TD5 behaving wierdly... Filip
  15. All sounds very good! For allround driving and getting there, you probably can't do much better than an ATB. And I was thinking exactly the same thing as you: an ATB with on-command full lock would be so sweet! Much like the ATB centre Ashcroft offers for the LT230. Filip
  16. You can check the compressor via the blue line. If you get pressure there, put the shop compressor on the blue line to check for leaks and correct operation. One step at a time, you'll get there. 😉 Filip
  17. Has anyone (besides journalists and JLR personnel etc) had a chance to see the new Defender in UK? We got a viewing (invite only, but didn't seem to be to selective) last weekend, I believe the Netherlands also had their chance and the vehicle is now heading to Eastern Europe. Seems strange the UK would be left out?? Filip
  18. Al, the Defender is definitely more like a Lotus Elise, a TVR would be way to plush and powerfull (and not as easy to drive). 🙂 Actually, the bare bodywork inside the Elise does remind me of my Defender with the floormats etc removed. Couldn't agree more on the touchscreens. I was playing with a midsize rental excavator a few weeks ago and spent about half an hour going through all the menus in an attempt to have the radio play some rock or metal instead of schlagers... Filip
  19. I'd get the starter rebuild, if you can find a good place locally. A lot cheaper and will last just as long as a new one (possible longer given the poor quality of some current items). Filip
  20. That’s exactly my point. I’m not knocking the new Defender as a vehicle. It looks great overall. And I can we’ll see me owing one as a used example in years to come. But it would be replacing my Range Rover or a Discovery. It would not be replacing a Series or proper Defender. I agree the new one isn't really a replacement for the old one. Although in the 21st century, a lot were bought as lifestyle vehicles and not for their working or offroading capabilities. My point is that the Jimny can't be compared to the old/real Defender, it's certainly no better replacement than what JLR have designed. It may look familiar, but it's no working vehicle. Fun to rent while on holiday on some island, or throw around a pay and play site, yes. Less suited for everyday work, think big Ifor trailer on a muddy construction site, something the new Defender will handle easily. Or even just a horsebox on a wet field. Filip PS: I wanted to counter your claim the new Mini R50 was a small car (I always call them Maxi), but I stand corrected. It's actually shorter than a 90 and lighter (in base form) than my Esprit...
  21. Try http://new.lrcat.com/ Most is in English
  22. Outer edge of the cap: 80.8mm, inside edge of the rim: 69.5mm. Measured on a Vogue with rubber(ish) center cap.
  23. I too am curious about the 2nd level of terrain response and just what it will allow the driver to do. The guy at the presentation seemed knowledgeable enough. But he also realized he wasn't going to sell me one, so concentrated his attention on a yuppie couple that was in the car with me. They seemed far more interested in all the gizmos on the touchscreen I was moaning about... He did claim the screen would be easily operated even with wet/dirty/gloved hands... I'm sure the Defender will feel special to drive. You have the command driving position I love about (most) Land Rovers. And it didn't feel so heavy like a RRS (mind you, I can only comment on the perception inside a stationary vehicle, we were told we'd have to wait until May before we could drive one. But we could already order one and sign a cheque...). Really a different league to the Jimny, that felt like a small and cheap toy when I tried one earlier this year. It'll probably be fun in it's own way, but really can't be compared to a Defender. The new one is clearly designed for long, comfortable drives at good speed, much like the first Range Rover was a huge step up from the Series. Filip
  24. Did you replace the injector seals and O-rings? And check the wiring loom for oil? Filip
  25. I got to see the new Defender up close today and take a seat behind the wheel, all stationary of course. It pretty much confirmed my expectations. It's overall quite a nice car, I like the design cues from the original like the rear door. The rear LED lights are not to my liking and look even stranger in real life. The front does look OK, modern but with more or less traditional layout. The dash is better than in the Tdci, but I hate the touchscreen (I always hate the things) and can't believe that will be of much use offroad or with dirty hands. Then again, everybody seems to want the bloody things, so it's only logical they've put one in instead of nice sturdy buttons and a DIN radio. I was surprised there's no separate button for the terrain response, you have to use the temperature dial after chosing the right setting on, you've guessed it, the touchscreen... The electronic diffs can't be selected manually, you just have to hope the terrain response makes the appropriate choice. The brochure mentions the settings can be customised, maybe that will prove usefull. I wasn't convinced by the driving position, a bit lower and more laid back than expected. Which strangely made the interior feel less spacious than in the TD5 we drove there. You do get ample room for your arm and shoulder and even a place to rest your elbow without opening the window. Gearstick seems well placed despite looking like a it was taken from a van, but as it's an automatic it's rather pointless. Exterior looked clean and well finished, the checker plate actually is a plate, not a sticker. Front bumper is too low, but one of the packs includes a cut-off version. The towing eyes are a nice feature, a lot easier to reach than the old ones hidden under the bumper or rear crossmember. I'm baffled those can pass pedestrian safety regulations! I have no doubt it will be a very capable vehicle. It was presented on GoodYear Wrangler muds on 20", I'd prefer smaller rims but they did look the part and will get the job done. A lot of nice and well designed details in the interior, like grab handles and luggage hooks. I'm sure there will be a lot of potential buyers. I certainly wont be one of them, too modern and too detached. Again, I'm well aware I'm far from the audience LR has aimed the Defender at. Still feel a bit sad it's not the icon it could have been, and at the same time happy to have owned a Defender TD5 while it was still a driver's car instead of a lifestyle statement. On the new one you can get an 'urban pack', to help you tackle the school run. I guess that says it all, no doubt it will be a very popular option... Filip PS: I must stress I don't want to come over as to negative. I really do think Land Rover did a good job, it's just not for me. And time will tell if they can convice a lot of new customers, or just compromise Disco/Range sales.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy