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Escape

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Everything posted by Escape

  1. The O-ring is in a groove on 2.
  2. What Ben says, the front seal sits on the pulley, so you need that in place. And the oil rings are a known point of failure. You can just reach it through the right wheel arch. You'll need straight circlips pliers and possible a hammer to coerce the piston and spring out. If all else fails, have someone start the engine while you hold a rag over the valve, it will fly right out. The oil ring is not available through LR, but easy enough to find. It's a 19x1.5mm. Good luck! Filip
  3. File a complaint with PayPal, often that's enough for the seller to take his responsiblitity, as he knows he's likely to lose the dispute anyway.
  4. I did look at the throttle pedal, but even when the engine isn't responding, the voltage on all three pots is correct. So it looks like the ECU just doesn't want to let the engine rev. It does throw a 'driver demand' error when you press the pedal while it's in limp mode. Soince posting, I've gone through the entire fuel system again (with Elbekko), replaced injector seals again, rechecked filter, housing and bleed valves and verified both the LP and HP side of the pump are working. I've ordered a new MAP/MAT sensor, as that's the only problem I can identify. Filip
  5. I'm using a Leatherman Surge for over 10 years now (second one, because I lost the first...). As good as the black one looks, I wouldn't buy it because with use the paint will wear off. A big advantage compared to many other multitools (including the one in the first post) is you can use both knives without opening the tool. There located on the outside, with a grip so you can unfold them one-handed. Filip
  6. Indeed, both propshafts are off center, to the left side on the P38 and to the right on most other LRs, including those with an LT230 like the Disco2. On the P38 the engine isn't centered either, it sits slightly to the right in the chassis. Shouldn't affect the prop, but it does mean less clearance between the diff and sump should you fit a Disco2 axle. If fitting an LT230 was as easy as on a Classic, we would have done it a long time ago! Filip
  7. Sorry about the confusion. As said, I typed a reply yesterday evening, but it looks like that didn't get through. We tried unplugging the MAF, but that didn't make a difference. With it connected, I get normal values on the Rovacom. So I don't think it's the MAF. Fuel pressure is something I need to check. Filip
  8. Looks like my reply from yesterday didn't get through... MAF has been unplugged, but doesn't make a difference. Value is normal at 50ish at idle and rising when driving. Haven't checked fuel pressure yet, certainly worth a try. I would expect low fuel pressure to be a problem at higher load/revs, which isn't the case, once it gets through the limp mode in idle. It really feels like an electronic problem, but with no codes hard to prove. The injector seals are the last change made, but I can't see how could they could cause a low idle and no reponse to the throttle. Feel free to correct me! Filip
  9. Bit of a strange one: recently had a Disco TD5 come in with poor starting. Glow plugs had been replaced last winter, but didn't make much difference. So I decided to do the injector seals, and they turned out to be in pretty poor shape. Fuel filter, check valve and bleeding valve also replaced. Car started fine when he left, but after a few days it became worse again. And with an interesting twist: sometimes the car will start fine, but idle a bit low (700 instead of 750rpm) and not respond to the throttle at all. If left idling for a minute or so, it will clear, raise idle a bit and drive fine all day long. I hooked up the Rovacom, no fault codes and all values seem correct. Even when the idle is too low (it does show a difference between actual and desired idle). TPS is responding when you press the pedal, but nothing happens. Injectors are all well balanced, MAF reading 50ish. Only strange reading is the MAP, which is reading low, 30 to 40 with ambient pressure at idle. It does go up with revs and load once you're driving, but remains too low. Though the car doesn't feel especially sluggish. Little bit of oil in the red connector, cleaning makes no difference. It looks like an electronic problem, but strange it started shortly after doing the injector seals. Not sure where to look next... Filip
  10. Looks like a great trip! You might want to have a look at the schedule for the Tour de France as it's the same period. Wont be much fun if you get stuck in or behind hordes of mamils... Enjoy! Filip
  11. It doesn't have ETC does it? I've seen a P38a with a failed ABS/ETC valve block lock up the wheels.
  12. Indeed, Chapman never used big, powerfull engines but was on the forefront of aerodynamics in F1, for example the the type 78 and 79 ground effect cars. Filip
  13. @FridgeFreezer I know the original 1.003:1 is even better, but as I understand it that's rare and hard to find. I had found one many years ago, when I was thinking about putting portals under my 90. Then I went and bought a car that already had portals, so I sold it on (maybe you remember? 😉 ). I thought the 1.1:1 could be a good alternative. But I now see Ashcroft offers 1.003:1 as well, so that would be even better suited, as you say Filip
  14. If the small wire for the charge warning lamp isn't connected, the alternator will (usually) not charge. Do you have the warning light on the dash with engine running? If not, does it come on during the bulb check? A broken bulb is the same as no connection.
  15. Anderzander, I have nothing against the Jimny, it's a cure little car and does look a bit like a Defender. Maybe even more so than the new Defender. There a bit small for my taste though, and when I got into one I was very disappointed by the interior. It makes the old Defender look like it's been well thought through and expertly put together. Switches were falling off of the demonstrator... More on topic, I don't see the Jimny doing anything in those videos we haven't seen the new Defender mules do. In fact, there's nothing any standard LR wouldn't easily tackle. That's with non-standard tires on and they even admit the electronics need an appropriate driving style to wok properly. So while I kinda like it, I don't see how it can be used as an argument against whatever LR is coming up with. Maybe it looks better, but that's a very personal opinion. As for EVs, there is a fundamental problem to fast recharging. If you want to charge a 50kWh battery (which is rather small) in say 10 minutes (which is a lot longer then filling up with petrol, diesel or even LPG), you need the charger to put out 300kW on average. Unless you're running on real high voltage (kV), that's a lot of amps going through a cable! And requires a big expensive charger, producing a lot of heat but sitting unused most of time. Filip
  16. Simon, (off topic) if you would happen to pass through Belgium on your trip, let me know! I owe you some beers for having a look at that P38 a year ago. 😉 Filip
  17. All the pin-outs should be in Rave. Even with just the diagrams and colors you should be able to get a long way. Filip
  18. D2 and late Defender (TD5 on) have 4 channel ETC, as does the P38 from '99 on. It works great but as said does sap some power.
  19. As far as I know the later version of the BMW doesn't use a separator, but only a breather hose. No filters or such. Not a bad decision, as the separators are know to clog and usually leak where they connect to the airpipe. Only downside would be if the engine has too much pressure in the crank case, as it allows more oil into the intake so a higher risk of the engine running on oil and out of control.
  20. As the standard tires are 29", you're looking at a 4" lift if you want to fit 37" tires and still have decent flex. Which is what I had on my Defender 90. Along with modified suspension arms and wheelspacers. And it will still involve some cutting, even more so and not easy on a Disco2. What are your plans with it? Why chose these tires? I've driven a Defender (not mine) on 37" Trepador, and wasn't impressed at all. They were all but impossible to balance and couldn't match my Mickey Thompsons off road. Filip
  21. As said in the other thread, I don't think it matters. Just get one from a decent brand, so it doesn't start leaking after a couple of months. Filip
  22. I'm not saying you don't need articulation, but it's not like the old Defender is that stable, especially when adding weight to an already top-heavy vehicle. The Range Rover, sitting lower (and wider for later versions) feels better suited. I wouldn't be surprised if the new Defender actually has a lower centre of gravity, and almost certainly a wider track. The air suspension will handle the extra load and keep the vehicle level. And the standard traction control etc will probably do a better job preventing a slide than the average driver. So while I understand where you're coming from, I don't think stability when heavily loaded will be much of a problem for the new Defender. Watching the Tusk movies, the shape is actually growing on me. Particularly the rear. I hope the production version sticks to round headlamps, not an umptieth variation on the same front used all over the current range. Filip
  23. Paul, the gold roof (and sills) were standard on a special edition of the Elan +2 to commemorate the victories and championships of the John Player Special F1 cars at the time, specifically the 50th victory of a Lotus F1 car. It was a limited run of 50 cars initially, but due to popular demand a total of 115 were made. Mine is number 57. 😎 So if your cousin had one, chances are it was also a special edition. It came with a UK plate, but not sure if that was the original one. I'll look it up if you want. As for waterpumps, I've never seen a plastic one with a damaged impellor, usually they just start leaking, as do the metal ones. Metal may seem better, but I don't think it matters. Filip
  24. Indeed, Wolf or XD wheels are 16X6.5 ET21. The obvious choice for wider heels would be modulars, not to far off the look of a Wolf wheel. Or 8-spokes if you want to keep things affordable. Plenty of choices in alloys. I have a similar problem, for my P38 that will also get 285/75R16s. My choices are limited, especially as I don't really like most of the stock alloys. Filip
  25. Paul, I got my first Esprit back in 2011. Unfortunately that one was lost in the fire in 2015. A month later I had bought another one to replace her, also a Turbo SE. She has been my daily driver ever since and will continue her duty for the foreseeable future. Early 2017 I swapped a Triumph Stag for an Eclat Excel and later that year I was offered the ELan JPS and just couldn't resist. Plan is to tidy up the Excel and sell her, as I prefer to drive the Elan which means she's just sitting there gathering dust. Bowie, yeah, I didn't spare expense, but all withing reason. I don't plan on building an engine every year, so this one should be a bit special and be good for many enjoyable miles on and off road. Sure, a standard 4.6 would have been fine as well, but now I know why I keep my office job. And there are far worse things to spend one's paycheck on. 😉 Filip
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