Escape

It is a known problem on the later Discovery and Range Rover Sport, but it's (usually) not the pipes not being connected. The problem is the heater core has a tendency to gunk up internally, so less water flow and reduced heat output. You can try flushing it through a couple of times. The proper fix is to replace the heater core, but that required taking apart most of the dashboard...

I've got room for that. And a brook for cooling at the back, if necessary. 🙂

If it's anything like it's big brother BMW diesel in the P38, it could be down to wear in the injection pump. Hot starts uses as little diesel as possible to reduce emissions, as the engine ages that's not always enough to guarantee a quick start. It is possible to bypass the temperature sensor (with a timer) so the ECU thinks it's colder when starting, works a treat.

3-spokes look good on any Range Rover, even in the bigger sizes.

2 weeks ago @elbekko and myself took our P38s on a little trip to France to visit a good friend who now lives there (@Belgian_Dude on here, but no longer active). Naturally we wanted to do a bit of greenlaning, it had been far far too long since we went off road together. Some nice roads, beautiful views of the area and then a small mishap meant we had an excuse to get the winching gloves out. 😎 Oops Let's try airing down Nope, get the P38 out of the way to let the Classic pass and winch it back on the road. And finally plant the flag at Iwo Jima. Err, I mean, fix the fence we needed to open to avoid doing further damage to both the Rangie and grass. By winching it out we managed to avoid leaving any significant trails, as can be seen. Yes, I was VERY happy to be a winchbitch again. 😄 Great friends & great times!

I'm no stranger to strong opinions. 😉 And I agree about the driving character, that's my main problem with EV conversions of classic cars as well. And the reason I would never even consider it. But on the aesthetic side this doesn't look too bad I think. Certainly very recognisable as a Classic, no?

That's a bit harsh, isn't it? I'm not really a fan, but it does keep most of the Classic lines and character (maybe not once you're driving it). The wheels are not too big, especially compared to current trends and the bumpers not that far of the Brooklands kit. May not be to everyones taste, but there's far worse out there. Anything by Kahn for example... @Bowie69 we're allowed a lot on here, don't hold back. 😉

I have my doubts on the double wishbone suspension. I'm sure it's better on the road, but seems like a very poor compromise due to the short arms. Probably better to start from a more recent LR platform. I'm sure there are those happy to spend that kinda money to get a different looking Chelsea tractor. 😁

That sounds more like a bad case of limp home? Do diagnostics turn up any fault codes?

Just to be sure, try to have a look underneath to see if the props are turning with the car in gear. With the TorSen center diff, if one axle is spinning freely, the car wont be going anywhere. As said, usually a problem with the early ones that stripped the splines on the front diff flange but might be a similar problem on a later one.

If we're gonna post that kind of pictures 😁: here's another V8, with the gearbox behind the boxes. It took 5 people to lift it into the boot. Sadly the engine is still sitting on the pallet, after over a year...

The transfer box could have been replaced by an adapter to connect a prop directly to the gearbox. Or a different gearbox fitted, one meant to have an output flange instead of a transfer box. Not being able to actually see the vehicle does complicate matters! Can't you ask someone local(ish) to go and have a look? I've had fellow forum members go look at a car for sale on Ebay for me on several occasions.

I'd have good look underneath to see if there actually still is a transfer box and not an attempt at a 2wd conversion.

Does the pulse have a higher (legal or technical) GVW than the 3500 kg of a 130?

Just showed those to the missus. I have a birthday coming up next month. 😎

It's not wrong to have a thought about the state of the rear floor, as they can (will) get rusty. But there are plenty of reinforcements, so the rust needs to be really bad before there is a risk to the fuel tank. Most importantly, a gearbox isn't that heavy. 😉 Once you start putting in several 100kg, you do want to look at weight distribution (mainly for handling) and avoid concentrating the load on a small surface so as not to overload the (possibly rusted) floor. A pallet is great for spreading a load and to avoid pointy metal bits digging into the floor.

As above, start with bleeding the clutch hydraulics. Air in the system will expand as things warm up and that will make the clutch harder to disengage.

You can lift an R380 on your own, so the Disco will hardly notice it. 🙂 I've carried between 600 and 1000kgs of stuff in the back of my Range Rover on more than one occasion... I don't think the EAS likes me for it, but it did the job!

Brown (N) will be permanent 12V. The fact the old switch has 2 connections might be to safely handle the current flowing through the switch if few relays are used (as on older cars). Often labeled 30. White with orange stripe (WO) will be accessories, live in positions 1 and 2 but not 3. White (W) is ignition, live in positions 2 and 3. That will also activate the glow plug timer relay, so you do not need a separate wire for the glow plugs (older cars often did have an extra position to power the glow plugs, so the driver could decide how long they would come on manually). Often labeled 15. White with red stripe (WR) is to the starter (or starter relay if fitted). Only live in position 3.

You can get good quality leads from Bosch or NGK for about half the price of the Magnecors, and there not red (grey or black I think). There are different types, depending on which type of coils you're using.

I have been using an old standard vacuum (that 'accidentally' ended up in the Workshop after moving out from my ex) for over 10 years. It copes amazingly well, despite the abuse. I do have an external cyclone type canister to attach as a prefilter when doing metal flakes etc. Last week I was given a big old chimney vac. I've been using that on the rough concrete of the first floor storage and it works a treat! The place has never looked so clean. I'm thinking of painting it white with some colorful LEDs and calling it R2D2. 🙂

Autocar also mentions a turbocharged Ford V8, later on they refer to a 4-pot Ecoboost... My main comment was that I don't see a shifter for the transfer box, as in a Defender. Could be electrical I suppose, but I wouldn't bet on it. Fair play if it was built for a RAFA auction, that certainly is a worthy cause. And would warrant some of the choices made, aimed at hose with deep pockets but not necessarily planning on actually driving/using it.

I'm sure they could have fitted an LT230 to that 6-speed if they had wanted to.

Exactly! I'm a big fan of the Chinook, but apart from a military tint of green and some webbing that doesn't seem to practical, I don't see any link. It's just another overpriced customised Chelsea tractor, miles away from a proper Defender. Id I'm not mistaken, they've even left out the transfer box (I don't see the second shifter). Probably just threw in some autobox, don't need low gear 'cause it will never go off pavement anyway.

But they will be loaded in tension in the standard position as well: with the cable some distance above the bolts, there will be a torque trying to twist the winch forward. So the front bolts will be loaded in shear, the front feet in compression and the rear bolts in shear and tension. I've had a winchbumper twist in this way while recovering a G-wagon. Afterward the bumper was reinforced with a piece of angle iron to take the load.