Escape

I don't have an email, but the guy does have a youtube channel so you should be able to contact him there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzsAENv2aCI

It's been some years, I think I got the TD5 one (cheap) from Autodoc and it has done the job so far, though not done very high mileage. For the TDV8 I did last year I got them from www.turborebuild.co.uk. Can't comment on the quality as the car broke down again a week after fitting (not due to the cartridges).

Changing the cartridge on a TD5 turbo is very straightforward. All the wear items are in the cartridge anyway, so unless there is damage to the housing I would always rebuild every time instead of replacing the entire turbo.

It could very well be. I saw 3 wheels and immediately thought Reliant. 😉

I may be wrong, but I think I spotted an Ant in this videoclip: For those who can't stomach watching the entire clip, because they don't like pirates and/or metal, or are too big a fan of Lady Gaga to appreciate a good parody, at 1:22 the pirate inmates drive off in a 3-wheeled utility vehicle that to my untrained eye (and rum soaked brain) looks like a Relian Ant. 🙂

I've recently taken apart a few Carling switches to see what options I had for rewiring them for specific purposes (me keeping busy with unimportant gadgets instead of cracking on with my Range Rover build...). This included a fair bit of research in the Carling technical files. I can confirm the switch part is identical, I don't even think there is a difference in materials used, only a different rating for higher voltages. The LEDs are not powered directly, but have small resistors between the springs and contacts. Those are quite important, I blew 2 LEDs while testing because I forgot to install the resistors... In your case, I fear the LEDs will not light up because there's not enough voltage left. But that's the worst that can happen (as above), so no harm in trying. The cure would be to source suitable resistors of half the value. Those might be hard to find, so maybe easier/cheaper to replace the LEDs with either 12V LEDs or simple bulbs. Filip

That's what it's all about! Glad it was an easy fix in the end.

You'll want to loosen (not remove) the shock on the other side as well, to make sure that's not preventing the axle from dropping more.

In this case, I'd say 'when in doubt, don't do it!'. If you change your mind in the future, you can still sell it. Price is unlikely to plummet, so unless it's rusting away outside or you could really use the money right now, there's no need to rush. But if you sell it, and have regrets, it will be almost impossible to find another one unless you spend even more. I do agree with some of the comments above, you need some sort of a plan, no matter how vague or long term and have an idea how you're going to use it when it's back on the road. I know how annoying it can become when you have project cars just sitting there because there is always some other thing seems to take up all of your time. But at the same time it's nice to have some dreams and goals, even if not always realistic. Filip

NO (brown/orange) = 12V feed (not 5V!) SU (slate/blue) = signal RB (red/black) = ground (via the ECM) Rave is your friend 😉

I didn't know the Defender 50th doesn't use the pigs heart external thermostat. I thought (assumed...) all GEMS engines were the same. Maybe there was just no room to fit it in the Defender chassis and LR had to resort to the earlier style plumbing? The diagram in Rave for the cooling system doesn't appear (entirely) accurate. For one the fan spins clockwise, so would need to be driven by a V-belt and not a serpentine belt like on the 4.0 GEMS.

That makes 3 of us! Filip

I've always (just) managed to get a standard 22mm spanner on, but it is tight so a strap will be easier.

For just a little more you have a new one from a reputable supplier, why take the risk?

I'll try and join you next year!

According to the circuit diagrams in Rave it doesn't go through the ECU, but does change color from NY to YN (on some models). I agree a continuity test will point the way. You can also try ground the wire coming from the dash, that should make the light come on if you turn on the ignition. If it doesn't, the problem is either the bulb or it's feed (fuse 7 on early Defender TD5).

I don't think they do. The wiring diagram shows the NY wire going through a header and then to the warning light, if the light has failed or has a bad connection, the alternator will not get the current to excite it. If the dash was out recently and the light never comes on, that's were you need to start your search.

If the alternator were to pull 12V off the main, permanently live feed wire, the windings would always be powered and thus drain the battery. 😉 All alternators are however capable to self excite to some level, usually this requires higher revs but some are designed to start charging as soon as they turn, even without an additional input. As those are (still) the exception, I think the technology is either to expensive or not reliable enough (or both).

I had 37" Baja Claws on my Defender TD5. It came as standard on 205R16, so I had the same increase in diameter as you'll have on the Discovery. On road it was fine with the 1.4 transfer case. Your Disco will have a 1.2 transfer case, but the V8 and autobox should be able to handle the difference. Off road I would have liked lower ratios, both for more control and more torque at the wheels. Again V8 and autobox will help when driving off, but very little engine braking will be available on steep descents. In hindsight, I should have gone for higher R&P ratios, as mentioned above. I also quickly found out the standard axles weren't up to the job, so upgraded everything to Ashcroft. That didn't stop me breaking ring and pinions though (one more reason to go for uprated and higher ratio). Filip

Brown/yellow is for the warning lamp, goes to terminal D, white (or white green) is for the tacho, goes to terminal W.

A mate pointed out I've lost the trim piece under the RH headlight on my Range Rover. I guess that happened last Friday. It was very lose for a while already, probably a broken tab (and the tape I applied as a temporary fix came off 😳). I have a spare ready to fit, but just know the rivnut things in the headlight will spin if I try to take it off...

Aah yes, when I was looking for rocker cover spacers for my 5.0 I did come across adaptor plates to fit Ford or Chevy covers. That would give you lots of options for different covers. I'm just looking for a bit of extra height to clear the rolling rockers so had spacers made for the standard covers (by Whengparts, very happy with both the product and service). If higher covers were to exist for the Rover V8, that would of course be a more elegant and lighter solution, and one less joint that can leak. 😉 Filip

Not this one I guess? 😄

Interesting rocker covers on the 4.6! Any more info on those?

The reverse switch sits at the top, near the gearstick/linkage. There is an overhaul manual in Rave, in the Defender and P38 section.