Escape

Must be better than Chanel no. 5 😈

Sorry, no idea what the problem might be either. The file is in the same location I use to post other manuals etc on forums, never heard of any problems and I see no reason why it would be unsafe. I'd be happy to send it by PM or email if you like.

LT77 + LT230 I think, so mechanically operated difflock. Thanks for the answer @deep, I didn't know the LT95 was vacuum operated and always happy to learn something new about LRs/cars!

I didn't know there was a vacuum connection to the diff lock?

You want to do the door latch test with it disconnected from the car (not removed, that's a lot more work, just unplug the wires from the latch), checking for continuity instead of voltage. See attached procedure. Repairing the fob is possible, but wont do you any good when the car is in an alarmed stated as that prevents synchronizing the fob. If you're sure about the EKA, it can only be the latch. It is possible to bypass a faulty latch and use pigtails to enter the code (never needed to do that myself as I have a good supply of spare latches). P38 Door Latch Tests.pdf

We've given up, the owner (or rather his missus) has bought a Discovery Sport to replace it with and we're stripping the Sport for parts. Given the mileage it's hard to justify pouring more money into it and after the 2 failed turbos I'd have a hard time really trusting the car for longer journeys. When I get to the engine I might try taking out the injectors and see if it will turn.

Nope, none at all. Access to the front pulley bolt is limited but I managed to get a breaker bar on it but it would not budge no matter how hard I tried...

I guess you've read my update by now. To summarize, at first it would start but die immediately. We found plenty of oil in the intercooler and intakes, both turbos leaking, one badly damaged. Also diagnosed by removing the boost pipes. Fitted new cores to both, started and ran well, but after a few days the left turbo blew again. The impeller was completely destroyed and I fear some debris made it into the engine as that is now seized. 😞

I tried turning it backwards as well, but not the slightest movement either. I find it hard to believe that could be due to oil in a cylinder, especially after sitting for a few weeks. At 400k km I'd be very surprised if the oil rings would give that good a seal!

I just realized (after reading @Simon_CSK had similar problems with a TDV8) I never told the end of this story. Sorry 'bout that, seems to be a bad habit of mine. I got a new (rebuilt) turbo to try again, at the request of the owner. Before fitting it, I went over everything again and tried to verify oil flow on the starter. No luck, on the contrary: the starter motor stalled after half a turn. I tried by hand, with decent length of pipe but can't get the engine to turn anymore. It's properly seized. 😞 Really buggered after all the work we put in and especially as we came very close and had it running again, if only for a few days. It's now sitting in the yard, trying to sell of the parts. But not much response so far. Filip

That sounds a lot like what we had with the TDV8 this summer... Fingers crossed you can get it fixed with new turbos!

Just like the Stage1 and 90/110 were based on Range Rover Classic running gear. But back then there were a lot more differences between both models than just some design cues and clearly a totally different target audience, unlike today.

Over here we usually need to take the Range Rovers to the lane for trucks at the MOT stations, because the rollers in all the other lanes can only turn in the same direction (allowing for a faster test as both wheels are tested simultaneously). Of course for tandem drive trucks they need rollers in opposite directions so we can use those.

A standard roller has both wheels turning the same way and tests both brakes at the same time. The ones with opposing rotation are only used for permanent 4x4s with a viscous centre diff or similar LSD. At least that's how the tests are done over here. So with a Series just leave it in RWD, Defender difflock off and there shouldn't be a problem. There are other cars out there, both FWD and RWD that come as standard with an LSD or TorSen diff: hot hatches, sportscars, pickups... AFAIK those are tested on a standard roller and I've never heard about problems.

That is my understanding as well.

I was interested in the results myself as well. I'll try and repeat the test next a mate comes by with his Classic, also with a TrueTrac in the rear but that one is known to be good and well used. As you don't have a viscous centre diff in your S1 there shouldn't be any effect on a normal roller, with both rollers turning the same way. If anything, it will compensate somewhat for differences between the left and right brake, so the result could only be better than expected. I just remembered the L320 and L322 have a TorSen centre diff. I've done gearbox work on both types and clearly remember the front prop flange being easy to rotate with the box in N and rear wheels on the ground. Which is what I'd expect from a TorSen, so I think the last one I fitted is just a bit stiff from not being used and should hopefully free up now that's it's turning in a nice oil bath again.

Not a clue what you're on about, honestly! (it wasn't hard to guess was it? )

Yes it is! I don't like faffing about with roofracks or even roofbars, so have resorted to putting long stuff directly on the roof of my P38 on occasion. The big problem with that is there is nothing convenient to strap it down to, unless you put a strap through the doors... The chassis reminds me of a P38, wider than a Defender and narrower at the front axle. The body does seem quite low, "258mm clearance to the vehicle body" seems to confirm that. Unless they mean the axles? There's a lot to get excited about as well: rugged design, lockers, manual switches, impressive wading depth (so the doorseals will actually seal?), ... Thanks for posting the brochure Jeremy!

I'm trying to be a bit secretive about this, but can't resist a teaser here and there. Elbekko's Range Rover that was used to transport the parts is probably the first and last Land Rover content, so if I start a build thread it will be on another forum. But happy to keep you guys up to speed. And there should be no lack of speed, it's a twin turbocharged flatplane V8 from a well known British brand. 😎

A 1989, so a Borg Warner with viscous centre diff. But I had the rear jacked up, just to see how it would feel if I turned one wheel. The other one did turn the opposite way, but it took some force to get it moving. Not as much as a viscous, I was able to turn the tyre by hand.

I promised myself I wouldn't take on any more big projects until I got some of my own projects finished. And that does seem to work, I actually spent time sorting bits&bobs on Phoenix. The all-relay transfer case controller has evolved to mkII: it can now also select neutral, with a 3-position Carling instead of the standard switch. And then I continued wiring some of the custom elektrickery. Most important one being the bypass for the starter motor. The relay is now controlled directly from the ignition, not through the BECM. This means the engine will start and run with one simple pigtail, even if the BECM fails completely. Also did a first fit of the modified dash and started wiring all the switches. Very pleased with how it turned out. If everything works as planned should be a joy to use as well. I have another P38 to strip for parts, some that will be used for Phoenix. I'll try and get that done next week, then Phoenix can go back on the 2-poster and we'll fit engine and gearbox. There is another big project crazy idea for which we got the part a few weeks ago... I fear this will make project Phoenix seem like a walk in the park as it's very much uncharted territory. But it should be quite impressive if it hits the road! No risk of getting bored anytime soon. Fingers crossed I can continue to work from home for a bit longer (a couple of years should do). Filip

As promised I played around a bit after fitting the TrueTrac. I was surprised to find quite a bit of resistance trying to turn a rear wheel with the handbrake applied. I must add that was before I filled the axle with oil and it was second hand unit the customer supplied, so might just be a bit stiff from sitting. As it is, I wouldn't be comfortable putting in a the rollers.

No pictures, but I have done this a couple of times now: - cut the insulation and carpet inside the right rear seat mounts at the sides and front and peel it away to expose the floor - grind (carefully) through both high areas closest to the seat mounts, preferably with a small disc so you can't slide through too deep - drill out the spot welds at the front and fold back the floor section - I use screws at the front with kit and tape to cover the cuts when reassembling, double sided tape or carpet adhesive can be used for the trim

It could be just the sensor. Do you have a mechanical gauge you can plug in to see if you get any pressure at all?

That's an SPMT, self propelled modular transporter. Hydraulic drive, multi-mode steering and suspension, all remote controlled and powered by an engine in the 'box' at the end. The weapon of choice for heavy loads for years, very good at it (at low speeds) but not as spectacular as a platform trailer and big prime movers. Usually 4 or 6-axle units that can be coupled end to end and side by side to cater for even the heaviest loads. Biggest one I read about was around 20000 ton I think. I've seen them in action up close when installing a railway bridge over a canal. One end of the bridge was supported by SPMTs that were driven on a barge to cross the canal, the other end by SPMTs following on land, then both lifting to meet the bridgeheads. Filip