Escape

Also check the inertia switch. First step is to make sure there is power going to the pump. Unfortunately, the connector can't be reached as it sits on top of the tank. I would check/ bridge fuse 39, relay 12 and the inertia switch first. If the pump still isn't running, you can easily cut an access hole under the right rear seat to reach the pump. Much easier than dropping the fuel tank.

"No sharp..." Ain't that the truth!

That looks like a TD5. They have a vacuum take-off for the EGR valve. If the valve has been removed or forced open, the vacuum lines and solenoids can (should) be removed as well.

I was give a set (unbranded) some years ago while without a lift and they have seen regular use. Some deformation, probably because cause by a Range Rover Sport TDV8. 😛 Slipping is not really an issue with a Land Rover or other 4x4, unless on real slippery surfaces, as they'll actively climb onto the ramps. Once on them, they're very stable. I got a tip to put a piece of wood under one end to avoid the ramps being pushed away, and that seems to work well for RWD vehicles.

A set of drive-on ramps can be very useful when working without a lift as well. Even on a Land Rover, a bit of extra height makes some jobs a lot easier. And they're quick & easy to use.

What was the response to the warranty claim?

There is a version without the hole for the ABS sensor, but with the same design and bearing (TAR100040). Certainly used on later TD5s, maybe the earlier ones used the 300Tdi pins (while stocks lasted).

The pressure switches look identical, but I've never actually compared the thread to verify. It would surprise me if they were different though. To change to non-ABS is quite involved, you basically need to replace the entire system apart from the calipers: new master, booster, pressure valve and all brake lines. I have 2 old ABS pumps for a classic, I'll check if they still have a pressure switch.

As I remember, the TD5 does have a different top pin, to allow the ABS sensor to poke through. They use a conical bearing that sits directly on the pin instead of a roller bearing with an inner race as earlier models. Seems less sturdy to me but I'm not sure you can change back to the earlier type without also changing the swivel housing.

That's a good point ^^ With the device attached to the dash, you'll be measuring the angle of the body, which is not necessarily the same as the surface, because of the suspension. I would expect the reading to be higher rather than lower though, as the vehicle will lean downhill. So there is some safety margin, but whether that would hold up in an argument, let alone in court is anyone's guess.

My vote would be the Grabbers. I never had good experiences with any Continental but know several people running the Grabbers and very happy with them.

Ashcroft 🙂 Better value than a new one if you ask me.

Yes I did, but maybe not my brightest moment. Especially as I've only ordered 4 instead of 5 and they still haven't been mounted, let alone used. 😞 Cost me a fair bit as well to get them shipped and through customs. What I did was contact various companies offering the tyres I wanted until I found one willing to ship to Belgium and list them as agricultural tyres to be able to pass EU regulations. I had similar problems recently getting some Chevy parts. Plenty of sellers, but very few offering shipping to EU. In the end I had to resort to E-bay.

If going new, another vote for Ashcroft. But are you sure the ARBs can't be rebuild? Some new seals and possibly bearings and a bit of work could get you going again for a lot less money.

We should check which wires are used in the Tactrix OBD. LR uses dedicated wires for things like EAS that might not be included in the standard OBD. But if you can talk to engine and gearbox, that would already be a major win! Needless to say you're welcome to play around with our Lynx VCI.

The good one had the 6-pot in the back, didn't it? 😎

It's not just about having a winch, especially if you rarely used, it's about the build of a winch you really want. I need to go that way as well, not looking forward to the process (especially rebuilding the burned out Milemarker I took apart 5 years ago and barely remember where all the parts are...) but very much looking forward to using it if I ever get it running. 😉 I must admit I have though about throwing a leccy winch on Tommy, just because it would be so easy and cheap to do.

There's no room to work on the M47 as it is, so the best place for an M57 would be in the back IMHO. 😛

I'm sure the passengers weren't forced into the car, quite possibly they were egging on the driver. So I don't see much fairness in one grieving family trying to get money from another.

Relatives of the passengers might try and put the blame on the driver to try and get some money out of it.

Put a socket and a breaker bar on the crank bolt and see if the engine turns freely or not. Accounting for compression of course. If something is indeed dragging it down enough to keep it from revving freely, that will have a serious impact on the starter motor as well, with increased current draw so anything amiss with the starter circuit will be highlighted.

Such a shame... Sure, our vehicles did leave some ruts here and there, and some new trails were made on occasion, but the site seems more than big enough and far from intensively used, so it should be able to recover. Especially, as said, because it's not a natural setting but formed by quarrying, wind farm development etc. And still way more natural and better for biodiversity than fields or worse, a housing/camping project. It will be sorely missed. I also fear, as more and more sites (and lanes) are being closed, as we've seen over here, the pressure on the few remaining will increase and so will the claims of site damage or excessive use. A sad downward spiral. 😞

You're mistaking, that was 2011 I was referring to. 2009 was pretty hard on us...

If you can't find the cause and/ or fix it, a bit of info on replacing the entire BeCM, as I did just that a couple of months ago. Ideally you want to take a screen shot of all the settings before taking the old one out. The replacement one will only respond to the original keyfob, but you can change the blade and swap the fobs without needing to do any more coding. For the engine ECU, you need diagnostics that can relearn the security code. I found most of my time was spent getting the old one out because of access under the seat. Once the 'new' one was in, it worked straight away.

Sure, just don't ask me to define 'gentle'. 😈