Escape

Bob, if you do manage to get emission data from LR, please let us know. I'd be interested as well, as it would mean the Range Rover has access to the LEZ where I work for few more years. Good luck! Filip

I had a similar experience last year. A piece of furniture arrived, in a damaged box. I told the driver I wouldn't sign without inspecting. Just like in your case, he said I couldn't inspect without signing, but by that time I already had a knive out and he wisely stepped back and let me do my thing. Everything was fine and I happily signed, the driver wasn't so happy. The reason I was so adamant was a previous delivery by the same company was damaged, but the damage only became apparent after use. I did get it replaced, with an extra voucher for my trouble, but I had to take it back myself as well as collect and had some problems convincing them the damage was not because of poor use. Luckily I had sent an email stating there was some superficial damage, but it appeared to work just fine. Failure only occured after using it a few times, several weeks later. Filip

You need to know what car it came from, the partnr will proably tell you. There are some differences between petrol and diesel and some changes made over the years (1999 being a pivotal year). I haven't seen any wiring diagrams specifically for the fusebox. Rave does list all the fuses, that will get you started. For the relays, your best bet will be to look up the standard wiring and see what you can do from there... Truth be told, it's not something I'd like to tackle. But 5 or 6 relays should be doable, things like heated windscreen (2 of ), EAS compressor, starter motor and front fogs are straightforward. Good luck and happy to try and help should you get stuck! Filip

Was that on an older L322? Before 2005 the immobiliser needs a signal from the steering module, so if you unplug it, it will never start. It should start (once) if you remove and then replace fuse 18. Filip

I missed the bit about the loom being in a 200tdi. 😁

The P38 fuse box is very handy in that it takes standard spade connectors. But the internal wiring is not always straightforward, so it will take some time to figure out how it can be put to other use. Filip

It should be the supply to the TD5 ECU. So without it, it wont run. Unless someone has rewired it? Also, the 4th fuse from the left should be 10A (reverse lamps) and the 2nd from the right 15A (wiper delay). Judging by the type, both have already been replaced. For reference, the full fuse layout for the late TD5: Fuses TD5.pdf Filip

The alarm on your car has armed, possibly due to disconnecting the battery. Usually it's fine, but sometimes it can cause some problems. With the alarm armed, the key will only mechanically open (or close) the drivers door, central locking and engine immobilisation will not respond. You need to use the EKA to disarm, when done correctly on the last turn (to unlock) all the doors will unlock and you'll be able to start te engine. As Simon says, make sure every turn is deliberate, with enough time in between for the microswitches to register the movement. Worse case you have one or more failed microswitches in the lock, and the EKA isn't being registered. If the passive immobiliser is turned off, you're fine with using only the key once it's started once, until the alarm gets armed again. Filip

Another vote for box section. I had rounds on first, then changed to box section when I got an external roll cage (that didn't fit with the first rock&treesliders in place). Easier to get in and out of the car, the round ones tend to be slippery. Filip

I had a P38a 4.6 manual, that has a R380 mated to a Borg-Warner transfer box. The ratio of the transfer box is identical, 5th gear on the R380 is higher for the V8 at 0.73 compared to 0.77 for the TD5. So overall gearing was higher than yours will be, but it coped just fine with 32" tires on, even pulling heavy trailers. My 4.0 with the same gearbox did struggle at times, but that's beause the engine is in dire need of some TLC (mainly timing gear and cam). With a decent 4.6 you should have no problems at all. To add, the ZF4HP24 autobox has the same overall gearing in top, and even when the lock-up activates the 4.6 never struggles. As said above, don't worry about the supposed problem with the engine blocks. If a V8 is still running today and you take some care of it, it will serve you for well for a long time to come. There's not much difference in the intake ducting between a GEMS and a Thor. But the Thor does leave less room between the intake manifold and bulkhead, so you might not be able to route the intake as on the Defender 50th anniversary. If you go with MS, you don't need a MAF, so less space needed. Filip

If you screw the T-max (or similar) line into the valve, it will be a secure fit so you can walk over to the compressor and turn it on. The clip on connectors are prone to leaking, not a big deal if you're right there holding the trigger, but not ideal when the switch is several meters away. And as said, it's not a good idea to use a trigger type inflator directly from the 12V compressor as it doesn't have a tank or pressure switch and will keep pumping at max pressure. My guess is that's also the reason T-max uses a male connector at the compressor end as opposed to female on a mains compressor, so you can't unknowingly use standard airtools that rely on a tank. Filip

That does look nice! Appearantly there are 2 types of wood trim for the P38, the usual being burr walnutt and burr maple being used on the 30th anniversary it seems. Not sure if maple would be so dark in colour. What's keeping you from fixing this one and selling the other one? Or is there some emotional connection to the other one, like the reason I'm spending so much effort converting my first V8 to manual... Filip

Something like https://www.landers-shop.fr/spare-wheel-carrier-def-half-door,us,4,DA2274.cfm would do the job. Not recommending that seller per se, just the first one I found with good pictures. Available at all the usual suspects, some claiming it fits both Series and Defender. Filip

You should be able to find a running P38 for a good price. That will give you an engine and wiring loom, as well as the correct fuel pump and enough parts to sell on to buy you a MS. It is possible to run MS directly from the P38 flywheel and crank sensor, we have one in a Classic auto (with EDIS) and a 'prototype' on a P38 manual, with direct coil drive (thanks to @FridgeFreezer). The later Thor was never mated to a manual, so only has the flywheel for an autobox. You can mix and match, though manual flywheels for the later engines aren't that easy to find. Older flywheels don't have the timing teeth for the crank position sensor, which is why MS often uses a separate timing wheel. Filip

Yes, the GEMS (and Bosch) need a signal from the immobiliser. In the P38 this comes from the BECM, easy enough to sync to a different P38, not so easy to run on its own. I'm not sure how it was done in the Defender 50th anniversary or the Disco2. Both do have a security module, so I guess it was modified to give a similar signal as the P38 BECM. TVR also used a variant of the same engine management at some point I believe, might be a possibility. Easiest, as Fridge says, is to go MegaSquirt. If only for all the extra possibilities when it comes to tuning. It's easy enough to use the standard loom (either 14CUx or GEMS) and wire it in to the MS connector. That way you can keep all the connectors to sensors etc, but it does limit you as to where you can mount the MegaSquirt because of cable length. Ideally mount it in the same spot as the standard ECU. Filip

I do hope so... I'll need it for the EAS etc as well...

Maybe we should consider a group buy of these T-shirts:

I find (rusty) bolts have a habit of eating the recip blades as well. Maybe I'm not using the right ones, local store mainly has Bosch blades IIRC.

2009, our first trip to the motherland...

So sell the Mini, buy the L322 5.0 and your car park will be consistent. 😉

Yes, we've all been there, and not only with Land Rovers. I find if I lose motivation working on cars, I can usually find the energy to do some stuff around the hous (workshop) I'd been putting off. Afterwards I'm always glad to go back to mechanical problems. Driving also helps. Be it a working example of something less ordinary, or just some boring eurobox or japcrap, it usually makes you realize just why you think it's worth doing all the hard work. A friend recently explained his strategy of keeping 'to do' projects on a designated shelve, so if you have a bit of time it's easy to pick something up and do some work. Might not work with a bulkhead though... I also try and commit myself to doing some work on one of my own projects/cars each time I'm in the Workshop. Just so I don't forget why I started it in the first place, and it should ensure things keep moving forward. Taking the dog for a walk also helps, especially when you have a forest nearby and see all those tracks that would be so much fun if only you could finish your latest Landy project. 😉 Keep your spirit up! Filip

As above, start with a good set of tyres, and run them at low pressure offroad. If you still need more traction, an ATB in the rear will be a lot of help. With reasonably sized tyres and some mechanical sympathy you should be fine with standard half shafts. Filip

Does the tensioner move at all, i.e. did you have to turn it out off the way to get the belt fitted? The tensioner only fits in one position, with the locating dowel. Then the bolt needs to be fully tightened and the tensioner turned ccw against the internal spring to give clearance for fitting the belt. When released, it should apply tension to the belt. Also double check the belt is routed correctly.

Or get the old one rebuild. We typically pay around €100 for the rebuild, looks like new and with 1 year warranty.

First job was getting my courage up to make a list for 2020... Though there are timing restrictions, I'll keep the list random: really get started on the P38a 5.0 project and get it finished, so I can do some offroading in 2020. Would love to come to another playday with SLR! sort the overheating on the P38a 4.0 SE get the P38a DT driving and somewhat decent, so I can sell it on strip, store (and sell) 2 other P38a Lotus Esprit: redo the gearbox output seals, address a few engine oil leaks, take out the radiator and replace the coolant hoses, refurbish the interior (pretty worn after 150k miles, I've got the paint over a year ago...), rig in a good radio arial, fix cracks on front and rear bumper, maybe get it wrapped to cover up the tired paint. But before I can take it off the road for any time, I want the 5.0 up and running as a daily. Lotus Elan JPS: get it running again (ignition issues coming off the ferry in Dover resulted in a trailer ride back home 😞), pull engine and gearbox and see what happend to 1st, fit a period radio and clean up the boot trim: Lotus Excel: get the carbs tuned, sort the electrics and brake servo, rent it out (already booked for May) and then sell it on. take on less customers, so I have more time to play with my own cars 🙂 Best wishes and lots of motoring fun to all! Filip