Escape

Wouldn't a 4.5ton GVW mean it needs a different drivers license? As well as some other limitations in use, including parking etc. It would over here, which is why many heavy vans are plated as 3.5ton instead of 4.5ton (at least that means it's not so bad if they're overloaded).

There is more potential in Wallonia than Flanders, simply because there are less people and more woodlands etc. But as @elbekko said, the rules are pretty strict regarding driving of the paved roads, so it's far from easy to find a legal route. France is a lot better, around Verdun everything that looks like a maintained road can be driven. This is mainly gravel tracks, tracks for forestry etc are of limits. As are water crossings, unless there is no alternative.

There are some lanes in Northern France that pass some battlefields and memorials. We did some around Verdun last year. If you go through with this, do keep us informed. We'd be happy to help and/or join you on part of the trip. 🙂

I remember we had a chain in a P38 where one of the links was coming lose. If that had gone much further, it could have machined away part of the housing, leading to such a break? But as it's a second hand box, there could have been previous damaged, either during use or being dropped when taking out of the car or such.

Welcome to the forum and congrats with your purchase! I think you've made a good choice with a TD5, I loved mine (until I fell for V8s). My 2 cents: - tyres: 255/85R16 is a nice size on a Defender, just a bit more ground clearance than standard. Downside is there are only a few tyres available in that size, like the BFG MT. Nothing wrong with 235/85R16 if you prefer ATs, they will be better on the road of course. - workshop manual: you want RAVE, as found here for example. That has pretty much every info you need to do your own maintenance and repairs. And of course there is a lot of info and expertise on here as well. I don't do camping, I just sleep in the back of my Range, so I'll let others who know what they're talking about comment on that. 😉 Filip

Right, I remember that topic, just not that it was you... All the more reason to have a good look at the wiring. A short in the wrong place can damage an ECU.

How does that work with the roof mounted switches?

It doesn't matter how you shift it, as long as you end up down & right. Just be gentle and don't force anything, sometimes you need to let the clutch out just a bit (with the main gearbox in gear) the get a positive engagement on the transfer case.

You seem to have ruled out the compressor. The ECU's rarely fail, I've only seen one in 15 years or so, but it can happen. It could be something simple as a bad connection in the wiring. Not always easy to find, unfortunately. The wire triggering the compressor relay is a green one, straight from the ECU (pin 8 ) to the relay.

The TD5 fuel pump is controlled by the ECU. It sounds like none of the ECU functions are working (like glowplugs and OBD). The starter motor is independently switched, which explains why the engine is cranking but not starting. I would start by checking all connections to the engine ECU, making sure all grounds are good. Also check the inertia switch hasn't been triggered (or left disconnected).

Why stop at a bus? A full semi will offer more room, you can disconnect the tractor unit for a quick run to the pub shops and you can have an awning big enough to park 4 cars (with quick jack of course), so the trailer can be all workshop. 🙂 Yes, another idea from Silverstone.

It could be the old one is just a bit stiff in different places. More resistance on the output flanges and less on the internals compared to the new box could be enough to have the internal gears turn even with diff lock disengaged.

To add, you want a small clearance between pushrod and servo internals, so the brakes don't bind as things warm up. So you need to measure how far the pushrod sticks out of the mounting flange and how deep the receiver in the booster sits. Adjust till you have about 0.5mm clearance.

@landroversforever I didn't notice the brand, could very well be Quick Jacks, very similar to what google showed me. 😉 @JohnnoK on a closed trailer you would need the roof to raise as well for clearance. And the sides would have to open completely, to avoid access issues. A closed trailer always seems so confined to me, even the ones with big doors or a completely lifting cover. Fold-up sides to make an awning would be a win/win though. That would add weight and complexity of course. I typically prefer to add lightness and simplify. 🙂

With the injectors properly coded and clearance checked, you will have already eliminated to most likely causes I think. Let's hope it's as simple as that!

It wont fit, the P38 is wider, longer and curved differently. And it's welded on, not bolted. While anything is possible, it would no doubt take a HUGE amount of work to get it to fit properly.

Would be very useful for an amateur race team or such. Easy to change tyres, work on brakes and suspension etc. The scissor lift should be fine and probably more useful than a 4 poster. But as above I'd want a good way to set the trailer stable and level, not rely on suspension or even tyres, ideally an hydraulic support on each corner or on the base of the lift. In Silverstone I saw a very low, movable scissor lift that was slid under the racer from both sides after it parked up in the paddock. Powered from an external hydraulic pump. Seemed very easy to use and ideal for different circumstances, just needs a reasonably level surface. No doubt expensive though...

I got to have a look at and inside last weekend. It does look good! Very very functional, and cosy at the same time. Something to be proud of. 😉

As above, most likely suspect is the thermal switch in the compressor. The thin black/purple wire on the compressor connector should have continuity to the ground (i.e. the thick black wire in the same connector). If it doesn't, the switch has failed. They can be replaced (new ones are available to solder in) or bridged. Simply ground the BP wire and see if the compressor runs as a first test. It's unlikely to be the ECU, unless there is a fault, which should be indicated on the dash. Pressure switches are often replaced, but rarely the cause.

Depending on where you're measuring, it is very possible that you are measuring continuity to negative through some other component. With all the different circuits in parallel, you always need to make sure you isolate what you are trying to measure. To test the ignition switch for example, disconnect all but the brown feed wire from it to see what gets power in which position.

We never got around to weighing it. We were very happy to get it mounted and the winch wired up the night before we left for Seven Sisters. 😉

I plan to keep the front stabiliser bar, so hope it will be doable at low speeds. I'll report back when I get to test it. 😉

Yes, exactly that. With the only dampening caused by the resistance in the airline between the bags. The L320 Range Rover and later use this to mimic a live axle off road. But it's only at low speeds and probably dependent on the terrain response setting that the valves open to link both bags. I have done similar on my P38, switchable from the dash. I made sure it is only available in low gear. It's an attempt to get more flex from the front axle and still keep the stabiliser. Not tested it yet though.

You do not want to link the bags side to side for a car that doesn't anything above a crawl. Not permanently at least. It will have little resistance to rolling, unless you add a beefy roll bar. Think of it as a tractor with a pendulum axle and no dampers!

Another vote for the panhard rod bushes. But don't forget swivel preload. If that is too low, it will put more strain on the bushes as there is less damping.