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Escape

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Escape

  1. If everything is in perfect shape, a steering damper is not necessary. But wear, inbalance, bumps&holes etc will cause wobble to some degree, the main thing the damper does is make sure any wobble will be damped, so no resonance can occur.
  2. The torque through the prop and axle would not be that much greater. The way I see it, most of the time the benefit of manoevering in low is not having to let the clutch slip to keep the speed down. On the occasions you actually need a lot of torque to get the load moving, the torque on the wheels will not increase, it's only on the side of the engine and more importantly the clutch that the lower gears will have an effect, allowing you to apply the same traction effort in low at idle as opposed to in high at revs with a slipping clutch. I do agree you have to be a bit more carefull to achieve smooth starts in low, although a heavy load will also act as a dampener to some extent.
  3. With the GEMS and Bosch V8's, LR used various types of boxes attached to the airpipes, to reduce resonance and intakenoise. I have replaced them on our P38a's with normal airpipes and don't really noticed a difference, so I wouldn't worry about it. I do know the original pipes can be quite expensive, so it seems like a good idea to try a breaker before ordering new.
  4. Yes, they are floating. Great tip, I'll definitely check next time I have the wheels of. Filip
  5. I agree with most that there doesn't seem to be much point in fitting FWH. I do see one application though, if you regularly have to manoever heavy trailers on tarmac, it would allow you to use low gear on RWD and thus spare your clutch.
  6. Unless you look at the big SUVs like ML, X5... I'm very happy with the P38 as a towvehicle. Used to have the 2.5 DT, not a lot of power to spare, and as a result consumption increased a lot when towing. Then a 4.0 and now a 4.6, much more relaxed and the effect on mileage is much smaller, making it considerably more economical (on LPG) when towing.
  7. A plastic air intake may be a bit quieter, but a SS pipe will surely add to the noise. Very obvious on my Rangie V8, with the snorkel on the driver side and driving with the window open I can clearly hear how much air is being drawn in (could be usefull if the MAF ever dies on me ). And as above, sounds like a very strange comment for a Defender!
  8. After some testing in Russia's rivers and swamps, I am pleased to say the serpentine belt didn't have any trouble driving the 8.5cc pump on a 1:1 ratio. Even when soaking wet there was still enough pull, even on the outer layer, to get us up the muddy bank without drive assist. So very happy with it, perfect for my use, but for a bigger pump (and faster winch) other solutions would probably work better. Filip
  9. Again Ben has filled in nicely while I was away. Our P38a performed great, the EAS never missed a beat and handled the Russian potholes in as much comfort as could be expected (with about 300kg of supplies in the back). I never really worried about the electronics, the doorseals actually seal, meaning I could sit comfortably in deeper water while the navigator was rigging the winch. I was glad I went to the trouble of fitting a good snorkel, the standard air intake wouldn't have responded well to bowwaves crashing over the bonnet. I use the same car as a daily driver and really appreciate the combination of high-speed driving in comfort and being able to lift the suspension and take it for some serious offroading at the same time. Chances are it will become our support and towcar for future events as well. There was a Disco 1 in our team as well, and although it also did real good, I wouldn't have changed for the world! Should you go for the BMW diesel, keep in mind they struggle a bit with the weight of the car. Fine for cruising (once up to temp my old one would happily sit at 100mph all day), but don't expect any sporty accelerations. The 4.6 is still not fast, but a lot livelier to drive. In Belgium, on LPG it actually has lower running costs then the diesel as well. Greetz, Filip
  10. Interesting! When i got my 4.6, it also suffered from brake judder. I upgraded to EBC disks and pads (not the greenstuff), the judder disappeared but after about 25k came back (shortly after I had passed the car on to my GF...). Bearings checked out OK, so I again changed disks and pads (though they looked OK, only minor wear as be expected), again the problem disappeared but now, after another 20k they seem to be returning. Think I'll put in a set of standard pads on the next maintenance for a try...
  11. Does sound like cavitation. What displacement is your pump and what pipes are used? Also keep in mind most hydraulic pumps only have a limited rev range that should not be exceeded, to avoid the problem of cavitation (which can and will damage your pump).
  12. Thanks Ben for filling in for me. Routing the chain was quite easy, the damper in front of the crankshafpulley was replaced with a chainwheel, an idler/tensioner (of a P38a Diesel aircon system) was added and the pump/clutch assembly positioned where the AC compressor would sit. The clutch is what let me down in the end... I would never tap into the timing chain, too much load and too much risk. With a dedicated chain, you can always take it off (even in between events) and still have a complete standard set-up. On a side note, having completed some tests on the P38a hydraulic winch, I must say I am very pleased! It's using the serpentine belt (slightly longer than standard) and an electromagnetic clutch on the pump. Even with the engine dipped in water the belt didn't slip and I had plenty of pulling power even on the outer layer. As said, I did use a small pump to limit the power required. I'd say on full load speed was slightly higher then the Warn XP on one of the other cars, on part load the electric winches where faster off course, but by increasing revs (the pump can handle 3500 rpm and has approx 1:1 drive) and/or using the high gear of the Milemarker, respooling was still more then fast enough for my winchbitch.
  13. Yes, you can remove it, but you'll have to make a connection or bypass for the thin hoses taking the coolant to and from the heat exchanger. I did so on my Defender to creat some more room for hydraulic hoses.
  14. I found a movie about the event (and we're in it ), but no confirmation about the record either. They did inform us it could take some time before Guinness would make it's judgement, but 2 months seems a bit excessive...
  15. How about some Mickey Thompson Baja Claws 35x12.5/16 or the new Baja Claw TTC?
  16. Just took my P38a with Ashcroft lockers for a 4000km testdrive to Ladoga Trophy, plenty of opportunities to use them and very pleased with the performance!
  17. The Rover V8 doesn't have a cambelt, but uses a timing chain. Catastrophic failure is thus very unlikely, but the chains can and do stretch, causing loss of performance. Changing the chain (preferably both sprockets as well) is quite easy, expect to do it about every 100k miles.
  18. I had a 30cc hydraulic pump on my Defender TD5, mounted in the AC-slot. First tried a V-belt, but that was unable to transmit the torque once it got wet. The serpentine belt would have the smae problems I think. We switched to a chain, which worked fine but I couildn't fing a suitable clutch for the chain drive. We had a lot of trouble to fab something ourselves, in it turned out to be the weak point of the system. With a suitable clutch and perhaps the addition of a chain guard, I still think it's the best solution for a TD5. There is very little room in front of the engine for a direct driven pump (with a Tdci it would be a lot easier). I have just completed the install of a Milemarker on my P38a V8, with a much smaller pump (speed isn't an issue for my use) that is driven by the serpentine belt. Haven't had a chance to test it yet, but as we're leaving for Ladoga next week, I'm sure I'll get plenty of opportunity there. Greetz, Filip
  19. Use more force. With a breaker bar, the bolts will either break or the nuts will come of, either way you can continue with your work.
  20. I know (and have fitted) locking diffs meant for a Defender can be used in a P38a axle if you add a spacer ring between the diffflange and the crownwheel. So I would think swapping the other way around would invole quite some modifications to get eveything lined up properly...
  21. In the Range Rovers, lock-up is variable, depending on temperature etc. The difference between 47 and the official number of 50 seems too small to really represent a problem. I don't think it would effect your driving either (in fact, I wished mine would lock up sooner rather then later!), and if it should, just put down your foot a bit harder to keep it from locking.
  22. I sold some fiberglass bonnets with a power bulge some time ago, @ €180+VAT. I could see if they still make 'em, if you're interested. Filip
  23. The second generation Range Rover (or P38a) has 2 different engine management systems, upto 99 it's GEMS, afterwards Bosch (with a different manifold as well). The BPR6ES is often used in GEMS, I use them as well, regapped to .6 for LPG. The PFR6N with the pointy tip are used in Bosch, because of the shape of the electrode they can't be regapped. Running on LPG you might be better of with the BPR, but for petrol I'd stick with the PFR. Greetz, Filip
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