gazelle

Have you tried 192.com and stuck his name in. If you know what part of the country he is/has been in then it can narrow down the search. There is a small cost to get at the details, but it may be worth it. http://www.searchelectoralroll.co.uk/ can also be useful. Good luck.

The other thing to note with UT is that the reading you take is for the spot you are measuring only. Just next to it could be significantly thinner. It is good for sampling, and for confirming other methods, but it is easy to miss the problem bits if it is the only method.

I have seen them used by specialist NDT companies. such as these clever chaps in Palma. One of the yacht survey companies on the south coast has one. Multiples of thousand pounds and needs a lot of expensive training to be able to interpret the results. Even a basic decent spec 3 echo unit that just gives the steel thickness and ignores the paint is around £1400 and the probes are around £500 each! Hammers are about £15 for a 4 or 8 oz ball peen which should be sufficient for testing a Land Rover chassis! When they go through the bit needs replacing! Simples.

I found this this and was thinking they are best described as hopeful...... http://www.johnsonsdefendercentre.co.uk/used-car-land-rover-defender-4x4-116.htm

Thanks for the advice. I will need to implement it now! For a 2002 model Nov 2001 TD5 90 CSW with 69k, in reasonable good condition with replaced rear x-member, mud roof console and tunnel tray, would £9950 be too far out as a start point? Martin

I use them on the bottom of narrowboats and dutch steel craft. Even at 10mm it is a real PITA to get readings on the rusty unpainted bottoms. You need a high frequency one to be able to measure thin plate, something like a Cygnus type machine. If the outer surface is rusted and rough you cannot get a return, and if the inner surface is rusted and rough the signal gets lost. It is worse with the higher frequency probes. Best to use a hammer. You can hear the difference the thinner plate makes. Cheers Martin

I am considering selling my defender to help pay for a more "sensible" car (well fast and comfortable anyway). What experiences do the collective have with where you have listed a defender and how successful they were? What were the issues that you had? Is there somewhere that is consistently more successful than others? I look forward to hearing your opinions. Martin

Cheers guys. The park switch does make sense as the wipers were turned off when they made one sweep after the sharp corner. I am away from the truck for a bit, but I will let you know how I get on when I get back. i have found a good thread in the technical archive giving details of how to get at it! Martin

Sorry, Tanuki. Good point well made, TD5 Defender 90 CSW, early 2002 model. I will check the park switch connections later.

Hi guys, I need some pointers as to where to start looking for this issue. I was out on Tuesday in the rain when the front wipers stopped working. The switch did nothing. I tried reseating the relay, and checking the multiplug connection at the switch, but both were solid. On my way home the wipers started working again after a sharp left hand bend taken at speed! It was as though they just came back to life of their own accord, as if nothing had happened. Anyone got any ideas as to the places I need to start looking to resolve the underlying issue. I have the VW99 relay in place of the original one if that helps. Cheers Martin

Sorted. Thanks all. Martin

I vaguely remember somewhere in the depths of this vast archive that is the lr4x4 forum that there was a thread a long time ago on how to fix wing mirrors that droop. Unfortunately I am struggling to find another way to describe what happens an google doesn't come up with anything for wing mirror droop! The passenger side mirror can no longer stand up on its own and I have not been able to find anything to help me understand how to adjust it. Can anyone point me in the direction of the thread, or give me a clue what I need to do to resolve it. Cheers Martin

I don't know, but I have them on the wiring from the car to the USB socket, and it helps somewhat. Doesn't completely get rid of it, but you can hear the radio.

As a slight aside, but relevant to the Mudstuff trays, leave enough cable to put some ferrite noise arresters on each of the supplies. Using the Mudstuff supplied twin USB made FM radio reception noisy. The noise arresters seem to have reduced that. Something like http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009ENG6TI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Apparently it is a "feature" of many USB sockets. M

When I did mine I on the TD5 I ran a positive wire to the fuse box and used one of these Double Fuse Holder for the positive. I picked a relatively high current item that is only live when the engine is live. The earth runs back to the fuse box and onto the bolt holding the fuse box to the bulkhead. Works fine. This was suggested by our local very knowledgeable independent Landrover specialist when he was asked for advice. Cheers Martin