gazelle

Have you tried 192.com and stuck his name in. If you know what part of the country he is/has been in then it can narrow down the search. There is a small cost to get at the details, but it may be worth it. http://www.searchelectoralroll.co.uk/ can also be useful. Good luck.

The other thing to note with UT is that the reading you take is for the spot you are measuring only. Just next to it could be significantly thinner. It is good for sampling, and for confirming other methods, but it is easy to miss the problem bits if it is the only method.

I have seen them used by specialist NDT companies. such as these clever chaps in Palma. One of the yacht survey companies on the south coast has one. Multiples of thousand pounds and needs a lot of expensive training to be able to interpret the results. Even a basic decent spec 3 echo unit that just gives the steel thickness and ignores the paint is around £1400 and the probes are around £500 each! Hammers are about £15 for a 4 or 8 oz ball peen which should be sufficient for testing a Land Rover chassis! When they go through the bit needs replacing! Simples.

I found this this and was thinking they are best described as hopeful...... http://www.johnsonsdefendercentre.co.uk/used-car-land-rover-defender-4x4-116.htm

Thanks for the advice. I will need to implement it now! For a 2002 model Nov 2001 TD5 90 CSW with 69k, in reasonable good condition with replaced rear x-member, mud roof console and tunnel tray, would £9950 be too far out as a start point? Martin

I use them on the bottom of narrowboats and dutch steel craft. Even at 10mm it is a real PITA to get readings on the rusty unpainted bottoms. You need a high frequency one to be able to measure thin plate, something like a Cygnus type machine. If the outer surface is rusted and rough you cannot get a return, and if the inner surface is rusted and rough the signal gets lost. It is worse with the higher frequency probes. Best to use a hammer. You can hear the difference the thinner plate makes. Cheers Martin

I am considering selling my defender to help pay for a more "sensible" car (well fast and comfortable anyway). What experiences do the collective have with where you have listed a defender and how successful they were? What were the issues that you had? Is there somewhere that is consistently more successful than others? I look forward to hearing your opinions. Martin

Cheers guys. The park switch does make sense as the wipers were turned off when they made one sweep after the sharp corner. I am away from the truck for a bit, but I will let you know how I get on when I get back. i have found a good thread in the technical archive giving details of how to get at it! Martin

Sorry, Tanuki. Good point well made, TD5 Defender 90 CSW, early 2002 model. I will check the park switch connections later.

Hi guys, I need some pointers as to where to start looking for this issue. I was out on Tuesday in the rain when the front wipers stopped working. The switch did nothing. I tried reseating the relay, and checking the multiplug connection at the switch, but both were solid. On my way home the wipers started working again after a sharp left hand bend taken at speed! It was as though they just came back to life of their own accord, as if nothing had happened. Anyone got any ideas as to the places I need to start looking to resolve the underlying issue. I have the VW99 relay in place of the original one if that helps. Cheers Martin

Sorted. Thanks all. Martin

I vaguely remember somewhere in the depths of this vast archive that is the lr4x4 forum that there was a thread a long time ago on how to fix wing mirrors that droop. Unfortunately I am struggling to find another way to describe what happens an google doesn't come up with anything for wing mirror droop! The passenger side mirror can no longer stand up on its own and I have not been able to find anything to help me understand how to adjust it. Can anyone point me in the direction of the thread, or give me a clue what I need to do to resolve it. Cheers Martin

I don't know, but I have them on the wiring from the car to the USB socket, and it helps somewhat. Doesn't completely get rid of it, but you can hear the radio.

As a slight aside, but relevant to the Mudstuff trays, leave enough cable to put some ferrite noise arresters on each of the supplies. Using the Mudstuff supplied twin USB made FM radio reception noisy. The noise arresters seem to have reduced that. Something like http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009ENG6TI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Apparently it is a "feature" of many USB sockets. M

When I did mine I on the TD5 I ran a positive wire to the fuse box and used one of these Double Fuse Holder for the positive. I picked a relatively high current item that is only live when the engine is live. The earth runs back to the fuse box and onto the bolt holding the fuse box to the bulkhead. Works fine. This was suggested by our local very knowledgeable independent Landrover specialist when he was asked for advice. Cheers Martin

It has now. Had to use the grinder in the end to cut it off. But job done and new one fitted. Thanks chaps.

Ok, so the bolt head must be encased in mud which will need to be removed before I can get a spanner to it! That is the bit that I was missing. I will continue with the plusgas for the time being, and think about cutting them away when I get bored. Cheers Paul.

Not up to the usual level of this forum, but I am struggling with this one, How are the rear bumpstops held onto the chassis? One of mine was recently notices by the MOT chap to be missing. I have located two nuts but one just rotates without loosening and the other is currently a bit to stiff to undo - more plusgas. Any hints as to what needs to be done to get the pesky thing off would be gratefully received.

I'm with Si on this one. I really appreciate this post. As an owner of a TD5 it gives me a good sense of additional things to look out for. I am very happy with the engine and the beast it is attached to. Agree with you wholeheartedly on the MAF. It seems to need replacing every few years! Not quite a service item, but not far off. Martin

It works now. As it says in the advert "If you are unsure if suitable please contact us and we will advise if OK". I would just ask them. Cheers Martin

The link does not bring anything up on ebay. If you want to be sure ask the seller of the item if it works with the type of laptop you have. Then you have peace of mind. You are now at the bleeding edge of my electrical/electronic knowledge, and we need to wait for an electronics grown up to come along. Martin

Cheers for that AMB. I was just looking at the numbers given. Didn't really think about the numbers that came out. I did buy a small inverter which plugs directly into the cigarette lighter socket rated at 175W if AMB's figures are nearer the mark. See http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/2-power-12v-modified-sinewave-175w-mini-inverter-with-usb-charging-socket-a77kc . From what AMB says about his laptop charger it may be worth a punt for £30.00. You may be able to return it if it does not work for your application. They also do a 75W version which should work for the charger. I bought one for sailing in Mexico to charge the phones, but there were no cigarette lighter sockets on board so did not use! I also found a laptop charger which is 69W which could be plugged in to 12V as well, but have not used it. It was too small for my laptop at the time which required 95W. It is a "Belkin Laptop Power adaptor for Travel" http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-Travel-Adapter-Laptop-F5L010uk/dp/B0014WC2DG . £13.99!!! Just check what is written on the current power supply and make sure it is less than 69W. This was to be used on the boat to keep us in touch. Cheers Martin

240v x 1.7A give 408W. The charger is about 45w by the same calculation. So you will probably need a 600w inverter. At full power this will draw 600w / 12v = 50A so it is not likely that you can do that with a cigarette lighter socket. An example can be found at Maplins. I have never used one of these so cannot vouch for it : http://www.maplin.co.uk/c/batteries-and-power/power-supplies/12v-inverters?page=3&sort=&productsPerPage=# The GoPro is charged from a USB socket so that takes 1A x 5V through a USB socket. You can get a usb cigarette lighter device to charge this. For example: once again I have not used this one. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Two-Port-2-1A-USB-Charger/dp/B005JCPZ22/ Hope that helps as clarification Martin

Be careful with the spec when buying one. There are two ratings given, and different manufacturers claim one or the other. There is a peak or surge capacity, which is just that and cannot be maintained for long. This covers higher loading when starting equipment. Then there is a sustained capacity which is what you get after a few minutes. For example the Durite inverter I found when surveying a narrowboat for a customer was rated at 3000W surge and 1500W continuous. Cackshifter is right to check if you need pure sinewave, as some items will not run using the modified sinewave. As I understand it (and I could be wrong) the modified sine wave is a stepped rather than smooth waveform. (see http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Tech-Doctor/Universal/Tech1-Universal.pdf for more information to help you with the choice.) Another thing to think about is the current draw from inverters from the battery. In both AC and DC the Wattage = volts* amps If you are running 180W as cachshifter was talking about, then the AC current is around 0.75A (180W/240V). The load on 12V, assuming 100% efficiency would be 15A. However inverters are generally no more than 90% efficient - so nearer 16.5 to 17v would be drawn from the battery. Just a thought to remind you to disconnect when not moving! Hope that is useful Martin

I have found the Technical archive on here a very useful resource for some of the stuff I have attempted. Have a look at the index to see if what you are looking for is covered. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4731