Landy-Novice

thats a 200tdi, that spec was fitted to the discovery and range rover as it has the low mounted turbo.

front flange is 100mm from bottom of chassis rail if that helps?

if its any use, i can get you some photos of prop angles on a std 200 90. could help you guestimate the angle to mount lt230?

i purchased a few britpart hinges to replace my old worn ones a few years back. they went straight in the bin! had more slop than the 23 year old hinges they were replacing. i know there expensive but the billet ones are very nice.

as above, usually new clutches rattle/clatter as the dampening springs in clutch plate need to bed in and soften up, put a few miles on new clutch and see if it quiten down.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-DISCOVERY-90-110-BRAKE-PAD-RETAINING-KIT-PFK346-LX0165-/400489078394

persoannly i would shorten the actuator rod by 2-3 turns then give it a blast down the road. if it still smoke, the shorten further by 1 turn. stil smokes then i would put back to standard and get the map looked at/adjusted. with a td5 remap, you cant just add more fuel without more air.

got any details of the place you had it mapped? sounds like a quantum dealer (like us) my advice is boost need to be set via the actuator rod! something i hightly dounb they changed. hence the smoke as its over fueling. my advice it so pop back and check if they adjusted it. if they did ask them to send map back off to get checked. (mistakes do happen) HTH.

Dont sappose anyone will convert my clocks to td5 for some beer money? wiring isnt my strong point.

im my case there isnt any motivation.. or time.. or money.. been 2 year and counting since i last set eyes on mine, let alone touched it! seems to be a large garden ornament under a tarp atm. ill start on it again when the next month on sundays arrives.

he has left the belt driven pump fitted with the impeller removed. is the top hose on the engine still the top hose on the radiator? ie- they havnt been piped up wrong/crossed over somewhen along the vehicle? have you tried to plumb in a normal radiator in standard loaction just to elimnate anything to do with the rear radiator/pipework? if not i would be looking at engine timing/fueling/boost levels.

with ewp, dont you have to remove the blades from the standard waterpump as it hinders the ewp? have you tried running with out the termostat? also what fans are you using on the rear rad, is the polarity wired correcly?

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/vdo-333158.pdf

One we had in work. Although pic doesn't show it, it punctured a hole in chassis. But after all. It had 285,000 miles. ?

http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1228/10541/12364/969/12376 number 2 with out socket. YWT10003

seems to be a quicly growing issue with the higher end cars as there become easier to steal. im sure either bmw or RR did a serurity recall as theives could with some cheap gadget clone your key frequencey and just walk up and it unlocks.. there was on on facebook awhile ago, from the theives pulling up to driving away in under 1 minute.... scary!

Mmmm. they were the part of the day for me! so much tat there was struggling to see past it. i remember standing next to someone with 3 air boxes bungy strapped to a sack trolly,.. didnt realise it was you. altho chilly atleast it didnt rain!

Any updates jason?

i had exactly this. but i left it in there 3 days. even with specs i always get metal in my eyes. (almost daily) and of which have discovered a fantastic way of avoiding the 5 hour long wait in A&E and a further 2 hour wait in the eye clininc! wet cotton wool bud always gets it out!

how often do you change the fuel filter? if left a while would this not cause the pumps to fail? when running (clean/unused) svo, arn't you suppose to change filter every few months? :)

not meaning to sound daft. but its not in low range is it??

6mm is a bit OTT. 2.5/3mm is more than sufficient. cutting out the rot and welding in new is much better option than plating over it. to weld 6mm your going to need some serious amps.. i know there pricey but you can buy new rear chassis legs but then you know its job done right. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DISCOVERY-2-RIGHT-HAND-REAR-CHASSIS-LEG-REPAIR-SECTION-LRD200R-/381083323822?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item58ba560dae

looks like they have some kind of double wishbone suspension on the rendered one.. doh!

265bhp springs to mind. but it was stroked to 2.8 and ran at 2 bar of boost.

we got 2 ct7850's and a ct8810. altho there useful and quick. i still have to get the breaker bar out to many times as some stuff, like over tightened wheelbolts it just wont touch them. there more of a nut runner imho. nothing better than a 3ft bar and some muscles. ;) my compressor is 3hp 25L and it barely spins it, let alone undoes anything! so you will need a more powerful compressor.