Jump to content

Phil Wilson

Settled In
  • Posts

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Surrey

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    1996 Defender 90 - 300TDi
  1. I fitted mine years and years ago to a vehicle I now don't own...but, from memory: - Fit it to the rear cross member with the uber-long bolts, - Drill the holes for the top mount - Bolt through top mount - Remove the back door card - Remove the plate with the old spare wheel mounts - Put in the white plate from the kit - Close the door and carrier and mark the holes on the new plate - Drill the holes and fit the bolts. - Done. Something like that. I definitely do, however, remember that the instructions were useless. So you're not missing too much. I remember finding a picture of someone else's fitted online, and basing my whole installation off of that. And somewhere I had to pad something out with my own washers!?!?!?
  2. My wife has a distinct talent for breaking wing mirrors. And this time, she's broken the bit the mirror clips on to. It's the bit circled in red. There's a top cover held on by a single Allen bolt, and the turret on the back of the mirror clips on to it. Any ideas what it is, and a part number? TIA
  3. I'd put money on it being one (or both) of the U.J's on the front prop'.
  4. This can also happen when you are towing (if you were?) as even more current flows through the switch to run the trailer\caravan lights. LR excelled themselves with that design.
  5. I think you're heading down the right route: fuel\air mix incorrect. But the fact it's not running badly all the time leads me away from a timing problem. Have you checked the simple things first: Fuel filter clogged Air getting into fuel lines Air filter clogged Turbo about to fail Obstruction in, or the collapse of, an air pipe Fuel sedimenter (if fitted) faulty The fast running of the engine could be a number of things too. Have you checked the idle-speed adjustor? Mine came loose once, which almost saw me crash on a motorway slipway as I couldn't slow down!
  6. I've only got a single key and fob for my wife's Freelander 1, but I've got a spare FOB. I live in Cranleigh, so any chance I could swing by at some point?
  7. Normally the front prop will squeal under engine breaking, rather than when engaging/dis-engaging the clutch. This sounds very much like the thrust bearing. If it's just started making the noise, you could have a while yet before it goes (mine took about 2000 miles from noise to failure). I managed to drive 10 miles in 3rd gear only, to get home and drop the gearbox.
  8. I recently had a similar problem to this, which eventually I found to be a dry joint on the injector harness. It was intermittent because whenever I took the inlet manifold off as I was poking around, I would disturb the harness and make it connect again for a bit. Reving the engine would make the whole unit twist on it's mounts, and sometimes cause the bad connection. Have you connected a diagnostics and found any fault codes? If garages think it is the injectors, did they find a code, and have they tried swapping the injectors around to see if the fault follows the injector or not (i.e. injector or harness)?
  9. OK....I've thrashed myself with a birch branch for using the wrong name (that is, by the way, used on lots of different websites) and will in future use your name (which returns 4 results from google when used in quotes). However, if the "low fueling adjustment" is set incorrectly the engine can produce lots of smoke.
  10. The "Smoke adjustment screw" on the top diagram : http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm
  11. My mate's does this too, and we have always assumed it is the ECU working out the ambient temperature and adjusting the fuelling with a bit of diesel knock whilst it "thinks".
  12. Are all of the pump settings factory standard, and did you check the smoke screw? You're probably right, and it's probably a tooth out on the timing - but it's best to start with the basics and work from there.
  13. Yes. Mine lasted <8 months of strictly road use. I put a deCarbon damper on in it's place which lasted 3 years (it got goosed by a broken drop-arm joint) and gave a slightly smoother drive too. I'm now on my second deCarbon damper. My Britpart rule of thumb is: if it has moving parts, go OEM. If it doesn't, Britpart will be OK. Seems to work for me.
  14. Hi - I have the same problem, only mine seems much worse when the engine is on over-run (such as touching the accelerator when driving down a shallow hill) but like yours it only lasts for the first few minutes. It then won't happen again until the engine is properly cold and has been stood for a while. Did you ever try the clear fuel-line test?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy