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About SvBeek

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  • Location
    Veenendaal, The Netherlands

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  • Interests
    My defender, ATB, scouts, climbing

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  1. Thanks for the info/pics guys Ok, then ill guess ill fabricate something for the drivers side similar to the steve parkers bracket.
  2. And that makes me think.. since the 300tdi is basicly the same block as the 200tdi with some improvements.. wouldnt it have the holes for the earlier engine mount bracket? Would be ideal if i could just bolt my old brackets on and use the existing mounts. Would someone with a 300tdi engine be so kind to make some pics that show the position of the 300tdi mounts on the block and the holes they use?
  3. Looking at my current chassis, the front mounts seem to be in roughly the same pisition. Would make sense i guess?
  4. The chassis is actually a 5 year old Marsland galvanised one, so i recon it has the right holes already. They make them quite generic. Probably also the notch mentioned above. Some pics / measurements of the front mounts would definitely help. I did see Steve Parkers sells weld on mounts
  5. Hi all, I'm considering putting a 300tdi with the ZF autobox into 110 that is currently a 2.25 petrol with lt77. The idea is not to use the rear mounts on the chassis, but buy the 300tdi crossmember that has mounts for the lt230. So the engine will sit in the original position. Imho this is a better option, so i can use original exhaust parts, oil cooler pipes, intercooler pipes, etc. But what needs to happen to the front mounts? Will the engine fit on them, or be located differently? Anyone can shed a light on this?
  6. Thanks for the suggestions. The bulkhead option shounds good, especially since it would need no modifications to it.
  7. I've recently bought a used mech lock device. I'm thinking about what would be a good place to install it in my defender. Obviously because of the route of the clutch pipe somewhere in or around the bulkhead would be good. Does anyone have pics or a description of where they fitted theirs? Thanks
  8. Do I see a Dutch license plate there on the picture?
  9. You can also use the Calvin tool (http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html) to check if the VIN number matches the engine/body of the car when it left the factory.
  10. Have the same problem here in Holland with an imported 110 Just put a tipex mark on the most important speeds as an indication. Here its 50, 80 and 130 km/h, however the last one is difficult to do in a 2.25 petrol Maybe you could carefully open up the speedo and replace the back plate? Like you've said, km/h speedos are hard to find and expensive..
  11. Diff: thanks! Again very usefull info. Do you have a RPM gauge fitted by the way? Any idea on the RPM that your doing at 70/80 mph?
  12. Thansk, very interesting info, ill try to get a copy of the book for sure. But now back to the original question. I assume ideally at cruising speed the engine should do as little rpm as possible, while still having enough power available to accelerate, right? Is there any way to determine this point? Then i would need to get hold of one of those torque/power vs rpm graphs i assume.
  13. @Dangerous dog: thanks for the tip, will give it a try!
  14. I've rolled with a coarse grained roller to get some finish. Worked fine. Only had some issues with the u-pol letting go on several places, but i guess i should have cleaned / degreased the panels better.
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