SvBeek

Thanks for the info/pics guys Ok, then ill guess ill fabricate something for the drivers side similar to the steve parkers bracket.

And that makes me think.. since the 300tdi is basicly the same block as the 200tdi with some improvements.. wouldnt it have the holes for the earlier engine mount bracket? Would be ideal if i could just bolt my old brackets on and use the existing mounts. Would someone with a 300tdi engine be so kind to make some pics that show the position of the 300tdi mounts on the block and the holes they use?

Looking at my current chassis, the front mounts seem to be in roughly the same pisition. Would make sense i guess?

Thanks, will certainly help!

The chassis is actually a 5 year old Marsland galvanised one, so i recon it has the right holes already. They make them quite generic. Probably also the notch mentioned above. Some pics / measurements of the front mounts would definitely help. I did see Steve Parkers sells weld on mounts

Hi all, I'm considering putting a 300tdi with the ZF autobox into 110 that is currently a 2.25 petrol with lt77. The idea is not to use the rear mounts on the chassis, but buy the 300tdi crossmember that has mounts for the lt230. So the engine will sit in the original position. Imho this is a better option, so i can use original exhaust parts, oil cooler pipes, intercooler pipes, etc. But what needs to happen to the front mounts? Will the engine fit on them, or be located differently? Anyone can shed a light on this?

Thanks for the suggestions. The bulkhead option shounds good, especially since it would need no modifications to it.

I've recently bought a used mech lock device. I'm thinking about what would be a good place to install it in my defender. Obviously because of the route of the clutch pipe somewhere in or around the bulkhead would be good. Does anyone have pics or a description of where they fitted theirs? Thanks

Do I see a Dutch license plate there on the picture?

You can also use the Calvin tool (http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html) to check if the VIN number matches the engine/body of the car when it left the factory.

Have the same problem here in Holland with an imported 110 Just put a tipex mark on the most important speeds as an indication. Here its 50, 80 and 130 km/h, however the last one is difficult to do in a 2.25 petrol Maybe you could carefully open up the speedo and replace the back plate? Like you've said, km/h speedos are hard to find and expensive..

Diff: thanks! Again very usefull info. Do you have a RPM gauge fitted by the way? Any idea on the RPM that your doing at 70/80 mph?

Thansk, very interesting info, ill try to get a copy of the book for sure. But now back to the original question. I assume ideally at cruising speed the engine should do as little rpm as possible, while still having enough power available to accelerate, right? Is there any way to determine this point? Then i would need to get hold of one of those torque/power vs rpm graphs i assume.

@Dangerous dog: thanks for the tip, will give it a try!

I've rolled with a coarse grained roller to get some finish. Worked fine. Only had some issues with the u-pol letting go on several places, but i guess i should have cleaned / degreased the panels better.

Cracked head maybe?

Ehm yeah maybe ive used the wrong term. But anyway, Im trying to find the sweet spot between acceleration/power and the noise level. Tried the ashcroft calculator this is what it tells me: Current setup (1.4 box): at 120 KPH: 3060 RPM Other box (1.6) setup at 120 KPH: 3900 RPM Max power for this engine is around 4200 rpm i believe. So the 2nd option should give me a lot more power for over taking etc on the motorway.. but the noise level worries me.

Last year I've bought a 5mb 2.25 petrol engine with a ACR automotive head fitted. It has a larger SU HS6 carburetor to give a little more BHP. I'ts in my 110 now, with a LT77 and a 1:1.4 transfer box attached to it. Especially in 5th gear I have the feeling thats its lacking power. Takes a long time to get up to 65/70 mph on the motorway. Probably because the 1.4 transfer box is a bit undergeared for the 2.25 engine, it came with a 1.6 originally. However, the low rpm is good to keep the noise down on. The transfer box will need to come of soon for some TLC, input gear is worn and new gaskets. I do also have a 1.6 lying around in the garage.. So I'm now in doubt what to fit. Is there anyone here that has the same setup that could share experiences with me? I'm especially curious to hear what the 1.6 box will do in terms of noise when driving at motorway speeds. Oh yeah, Im running on 235/85 AT tires.

Thanks for all the tips so far! Plotting a route now, see if i can incorporate some of them.

Sounds a bit like an earting problem? Had it also, you can have the weirdest effects because the current will find its way via other lamps etcetera.

Looks beautiful indeed, thanks!

Hi all, I'm visiting Scotland this summer in our 110. Arriving in Newcastle and then travelling up north via Fort William to Skye in the first two days. We stay in Skye for a few days in a rented cabin, all the other nights will be spent camping. Second week is stil a bit open. Perhaps travel some further up north and then back trough Cairngorms or the east coast. Does anyone have some tips for us on nice routes to take with the Land Rover or good places to stay? Both commercial campsites (not too crowded) or wild camping are fine for us. We carry everything with us to spend a night somewhere. Many thanks!

Bend the top of an old screwdriver and then use that to knock it out

Removed the halfshafts from my cv joints recently, and then noticed they are discolored. There is a purpleish glow of approx 1cm around areas where the balls touch the outer casing of the cv. The inner one looks fine. Because of the color this makes me think heat. Could this have been caused by overheating because of lubrication issues? And if so should i replace them? Or do they come with a hardened running area or something like that? The brand is hardy spicer by the way.

Nah its ok like this. The bottom of the snorkel has a similar shape compared to the intake. Maybe its a few mm smaller, but that shouldnt make the difference.