Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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There is no gasket between them, as both shafts have oil seals so one is not required.
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Early KAM 4.75’s had 3/8 BSF threads. I had a set. They recommended that you used the stock series Land Rover swivel bolts as i recall. God knows why they made them BSF - but they did! No idea if the later ones are different.
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Nothing wrong with a 300Tdi, but i wouldnt fit an autobox behind one. I had a factory 300Tdi Auto Range Rover, which was awful as a result of the auto box. Drank fuel, and when you put your foot down it would kick down, make a **** load more noise but wouldnt actually go any faster. I’d go manual every time. I’ve a 200Tdi in my series with an Lt77 and Lt230 behind it.
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IMHO tyre size and pattern should be the limit and there is a precedent for this set in many of the competition formats.
I’ve seen it first hand, where somebody with a tricked up truck with massive tyres has cut the ruts in a track so deep that anybody on anything smaller just ends up beached on the axle tubes with all four wheels spinning. This then just starts an ever increasing circle of people wanting larger and larger tyres etc.
The trouble with play days is that they attract anything from a freelander on road tyres right through to full on challenge trucks. The challenge truck boys soon get bored of driving round the tame tracks and go off piste.
I dont see limiting tyres as limiting development. Think of F1 - there is a huge amount of development done around a fixed set of tyres. I see little clever development done with 4x4’s - it’s all about locked up diffs, massive tyres and burying the throttle mad max style. One of the few i have seen (some years ago now) that did something different was Mitsimog which had some thought put into the suspension on it which allowed it to do all sort of different things. I’m not sure how well it worked or not, but at least it was good evidence of somebody trying something different.
For those who followed ladoga years ago think about the Frogs too - how different were they to anything anybody had ever seen before?
We never had any of these problems with 7.50 SAT’s were the biggest and most aggressive tyres you could get!
Jon
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It can go anywhere in the line - so you could make up a short lead with a diode in to simply plug in between the loom and the alternator to prove that it fixes the issue without cutting anything.
The factory fitted them behind the dash, but it can go anywhere in the circuit. It might be a bandaid, but a diode in line was how they fixed it from the factory!
Jon
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11 hours ago, Wowa said:
The alternator does charge. Checking the diodes through the alternator though, I get a reading of 1327mV. Apparently should only read 400-800mV.
A few other potential clues, the ignition switch only works as it should with the alternator charge light wire disconnected....but then battery isn't charging; when the engine is running, ignition turned to off position, the engine does stop when this wire is pulled (similar to pulling the FIP connection); when ignition off there is no feed to end of FIP plug when disconnected.....but there is 13.8v feeding the FIP when still connected (obivously not through the ignition)....ie 13.8v being fed through this FIP connection by something else....I am assuming a faulty alternator.
I have a new alternator on the way and fingers crossed that is it..............?I’ve said it three times now and I wont waste my breath saying it any more times.
Add a diode to the warning light feed wire as it is back feeding via the warning light.
That’s all it needs - a 15p diode. You probably don't need a new alternator.
We see this all the time - its very, very common.
There is a diode present in this wire in the later wiring looms to prevent this issue - it is hidden in the wiring loom. You just need a standard rectifier diode - a 1N4001 will do.
It is all covered on this post
Jon
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Correct - with the small lead disconnected from the alternator it wont charge, but this proves everything else is working correctly.
You need to add a diode to the circuit via the warning light and it will fix the issue. It’s a very very common problem.
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It’s backfeeding via the warning light from the alternator. You need to add a diode.
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Download the manual for the carb from edelbrocks website. That will tell you all you need to know.
CR is often stamped on the block adjacent to the engine number.
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22 minutes ago, Mediamab said:
Hi! Yeah a little tricky as the carb was fitted before I made purchase so I’m not sure exactly what the carb is fitted with. I’m mildly wary the engine feels quite sluggish, even compared to my stage 1 TD5. Would the carb setup be likely to cause this? How easy is it to see what it’s been setup with? Planning to upgrade the ignition system to see if that helps on performance with a kit from RPI.
Take the top off the carb and read the numbers off the parts. That’s the only way to know what youve got and you can check the float levels at the same time.
Also check the timing and also check that the timing is advancing when the engine is revved. There is a plastic collar that can move and stop the advance weights from moving correctly.
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The idle mixture screws will make bugger all difference if you have running problems at high revs. They only affect mixture at idle to about 1500rpm.
What jets, metering rods and springs do you have in the carb? Are the floats set to the correct height?
I’m running an SD1 V8 on an edelbrock 1404 with 0.86” primaries, 0.95” secondaries, 67-55 metering rods and orange springs. It seems about right.
My mixture screws are about 2 turns out from fully bottomed.
Mostly these end up running far too rich as they come jetted from the factory for a 5+litre engine.
Jon
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Yes I’m DIY shortening, modifying, changing ends over to suit differing trans etc. Have never bothered with balance. Just set up a DTI on it to make sure it’s straight. Never had a vibration.
I fit my own tyres on anything classic or that i have built and again never bother with wheel balance - even on my hot rod. (Wheel weights are unsightly).
I can DIY fit low profiles to the daily, but mostly cant be bothered so just let the tyre guys do their thing.
IMHO its not worth it on an off roader - one big lump of mud, or one big chunk of tread chewed off on a rock and its immediately out of balance again.
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I rarely bother to balance tyres on any vehicle. Never find it makes any difference at all. It’s just something else the tyre places can charge you for.
I certainly never bother on landrover wheels.
Same with prop shafts - never bother with balancing and dont suffer from vibrations.
It probably makes a difference on an F1 car, but not on a Land Rover.
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I got mine from rally design. I used the ones that just screw together.
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I bought a new steering column in the end as i was unable to source the bearing.
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I blame my parents….
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I’ve smashed a number of the Ujs on front shafts. They aren’t that strong. I also swapped to 110Cvs with custom made shafts from GB engineering
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Gripfill 👍🏻
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Looks like a defender TRE. As I recall the taper is the same angle, but the stud on a series TRE is much shorter
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Fix it yourself. Series gearboxes aren’t complicated. No way I would pay £1300 for a recon one! I’ve fixed loads……
use genuine parts where possible, but not all pattern parts are terrible. There is a lot of old stock floating around still if you look in the right places
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No. Buy the correct sized tap. There are almost no metric threads on a series.
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These are designed to use the car flywheel which is lighter and hence thinner, and also use the smaller clutch.
you either need a different flywheel, or get yours machinist both to take the smaller clutch and also for clearance to the apart or plate
jon
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Yes I rebuilt mine, and didn’t need a press. Be warned you need a good selection of shims to get things right. I also stripped three transfer boxes to get enough good bits to rebuild one good one. The centre diffs are often very worn as there aren’t really any proper bearings in them. Beware the casings can also wear and the holes in the casing that the pin the intermediate gear runs on can wear and and require sleeving (or just find a better case).
Replace all the bearings and make sure you follow the manual and shim it all correctly.
easy enough otherwise.
jon
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Cutting a galvanised chassis
in International Forum
Posted
No way I’d be cutting the crossmember off for that tiny bit of damage.
get the porta power out if necessary, but I’d be reaching for a hammer first……