Jon White

Pull the diff out, sandblasting will ruin it.

The thread size is 1/8 bsp. Just buy standard 6mm push in fittings they are pennies off of eBay either in straight or 90 degree elbow

So......what’s wrong with the standard Land Rover bottle jack that has a top that looks like that anyway?

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Gwynn Lewis keeps sumo bars the correct length for a series with a P38 box conversion on the shelf. I bought one recently when I did my conversion. They aren’t on the website but if you ring him up they are in stock. Jon

A friend of mine also owns one, although it’s been in bits for at least ten years now..... the link above provides good info. Value wise it’s down to what components are fitted, how well it is built and ultimately what it’s worth to you!

Yes the gear-lever more or less comes out in the same spot yes the hi lo levers will need sorting out having run this set up in the past I wouldn’t bother again. Fit the lt230 aswell and forget the series transfer box. The lt230 is vastly superior. you don’t need any of those stupid part time 4wd kits either. The series axle is fine in full time 4wd. I’ve run mine like that for more than ten years now jon

Just use a 7810 regulator. Cost pennies and will use the screw the old unit used to mount and use the speedo as a heat sink. I’ve had one for years. Just solder leads on and away you go.

You’ll probably find it’s a one man band, not a large company - most specialist suppliers are these days. Hence they shut down when the go on holiday. also some shut down to ensure that their annual turn over stays below the VAT threshold so that they don’t have to go VAT registered.

I have the xcess 4x4 washer kit on my truck. Works very well....

I have a sealey bench mounted one I bought at Newbury autojumble years ago for £40. It does all I want.

I recognise that, in fact I’m almost certain that I made it! Where did you get it from? its definately not x-eng. at the time we made these x-eng didn’t make a kit for a series hence we made our own..... pads and Caliper are rover 800 rear.

You’ll find that the series 3 servo will work to a degree, but I found it didn’t offer enough servo assistance, so updated to an early 110 unit which is much improved. The series 3 and defender master cylinder is interchangeable the only difference is the brake bias. The series has a 50:50 split where the defender on puts more bias up front. I’m still running the series master. i did indeed post how to bolt on rears using landrover parts many moons ago. im using, early 90 drum braked rear stubs, with Range Rover disks hubs and Calipers. I used the Caliper brackets from a disk braked Salisbury rear from a 110 which bolt on after thinning them down by a couple of mm to get the disks correctly aligned (can’t remember the measurement sorry, but it’s easy enough to fly cut a bit off of them on a milling machine). Use 24spline shafts, early “thick” defender drive flanges and it all bolts up. there is little difference in braking performance compared to well adjusted and maintained drums, however for me it’s the need for minimal maintenance that sold me. We have very sandy soil in my area, and I got fed up of the need to pump the brakes three times before they worked after a play day, when I had drums. hth jon

That’s a LHD arm fitted on the wrong side of the vehicle. That arm should be on the other side of the axle. Either that or it’s a series 2 arm incorrectly fitted Into the bottom of the swivel housing, where it should be fitted from the top. Are the tapers for the track rod ends going the correct way? early series 2 stuff was the opposite way around to the later stuff.

Fair enough. Can’t help you then as I’m on 16s

285/75/16 on mine if it helps. They measure up about 33x11.5x16 second pic is a good comparison between mine and my mates which is on 265/75/16s

Just soft soldered. Easy to do with a plumbers blowtorch and solder. Don’t bodge it with JB weld it’s easy to mend properly.

Will Warne has fianally given up on his build and is moving it on! 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Yep I’m going, looking for a few bits....

Just leave them. There’s about a million other holes anyway. If you’re worrying about water getting in then by the time it’s deep enough for that then you’re arse is getting wet anyway.....

Size of the head is absolutely meaningless you need to measure the thread size. also bear in mind that not all the threads on a landrover are metric, there is mix of metric, UNC, UNF, And BSF at the very least..... get yourself a vernier, a set of thread pitch gauges, and a Zeus book, as the only way to identify a thread size is to carefully measure it!

Yes definately needed, I had to make one for my series when I fitted PAS as without the column vibrated badly. would only take a couple of minutes to make something and weld it on. It can be pretty agricultural as it’s an area that never gets seen.....

Check your sizes. The spanner size is not the thread size! an m8 threaded bolt most commonly uses a 13mm spanner for example.....

There is a known problem with the cam bearings on tdi’s slipping. This is probably what’s happened, especially if you suffer with the oil light flickering at idle.

A nut and bolt and a couple of thick washers is all you need to fit a couple of rivnuts. i would recommend large flanged rivnuts as the holes are likely to be a little worn.