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pedro

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Everything posted by pedro

  1. Hi Mike this company. Bit of miriad of sliders, based on application etc http://gsf-slides.co.uk/en/products/slide-selector-results-details.asp?productid=131&productname=15%2E9036+DTS-90+%28630-1125kg%29+Extreme+Duty I paid almost £700 for the pair, ouch. off the top of my head, 1800mm rials with 1800mm extension. Add £100 for brackets not supplied and custom made to mount the sliders plus ply and coverings and cargo rails! not cheap but really good quality.
  2. yeah a bit of dead space, only enough for high lift jack (if you are into those) I guess. The gap is about 50mm The cargo rails are orientated so I can take off the engel fridge in winter. The rails are fitted to special forces vehicles according to supplier! the handle was robbed from my old tool chest.
  3. Hello all. I thought I would share my solution to getting stuff out of the back of my 110 without getting in and slipping out!! The drawer runners are not cheap but very happy with result, mounted on marine ply and covered with rubber chequer plate and aluminium cargo rails. The weight capacity at full extension is quoted at 100 plus kgs (not sure about that but it feels solid) and 500 kgs when stowed.
  4. not being a TD5 expert! my buddy has 2005 def td5. New battery fitted recently, the engine wont turn over, only clicking noises heard. -disconnected the trailer, bingo, it started first time! WTF!? (however, the clicking noise stays with engine running!, most annoying) I seem to remember the 300tdi needed a flasher unit upgrade when using a trailer. -Does the TD5 need a similar change?
  5. Gumtree have it at moment. Think new engine time for my buddy. Initial inspection seems to be cracked head. Turners do uprated TD5 (improved head) engine on exchange basis, for £4000 plus VAT plus £500 for extras, £1500 for reinstallation. On the plus side, it should'nt happen to new engine I am assured!! eeeek. I love my 300tdi, (I might have mentioned that before.)
  6. Posting on behalf of mate. Driving along and engine started to increase in revs to infinity. Luckily, the engine ignition switch turned engine off, although was overrunning for a short while. Engine would not restart. Massive amount of smoke, described as whitish from exhaust. Engine by covered in antifreeze. Towed to garage, garage diagnostics indicated def problem with no 1 injector. I personally think, It could be cracked head. What does the panel think? Think Turner engineering may be gd option if this the case? Or perhaps secondhand engine? Any help, grateful!
  7. I replaced my pro comps with terrafirma big bore and old man emu HD springs. Plus super-pro bushes all round, ahem. Yes, expensive. The ride is completely different and totally worth the upgrade.
  8. My chassis paint looks like new still, used the POR 15 treatment. Follow the instructions carefully. I used mordaunt solution liberally before, metal ready etc. Touched up a few areas after chassis swap with waxoil. Overall, impressed.
  9. Now £75 on ebay. How much extra reclining do you get after fitted? Does the angled part of the tube still touch the reclined seat?
  10. funny thing is thats my original relay! I replaced with new one with AMR part number, ie supposedly correct for vehicle. Thanks for tip, will post results!
  11. I have 1995 300tdi with annoying fault. The windscreen wipers "park" function stopped working and the intermittent wipe also. So: new motor park switch fitted, new stalk switch fitted (this made the wipers stay on regardless of position either v fast or normal speed) and new relay fitted, this didnt change anything. I am thinking now either wiring or new motor. Help!? has anybody got wiring diagram for this year?
  12. Has anyone removed the dreadful bulkhead behind the front seats? Did you use mudUK removal bar? was it worth it? Maybe you have fabricated something yourself to incorporate a roll bar? I would be interested in hearing what you think.
  13. If you want to change the bumpstops, dont go poly. I have spare set of Bearmach rubber ones, cant recall if front or back, part number ANR 4188. Donation to forum would suffice, plus P&P.
  14. Had pro-comp and put them in the bin recently, awful, especially over things like speed bumps, the white paint lasted about a month. I have installed Terrafirma Big bore expedition shocks and seriously impressed.I asked around and several large 4x4 firms all recommended Old Man EMU HD springs and Terrafirma shocks, hope they last!
  15. POR-15 works best when it is the primer touching bare metal.
  16. I actually got an itch during painting and accidentally scratched my nose when using the POR15 grey primer. Needless to say it looked pretty funny going to work for 10days with the paint on my nose! Try and gauge exactly how much paint you are going to use and use the whole tin in one go. They do 2 sizes. I had one tin lid glue itself on and ended up using screwdriver and decanted into plastic container. This is expensive stuff!
  17. ps with ref to paint job. The POR 15 is the primer, sorry if unclear. Ideally do whole coat at a time and apply the next coat just prior to being hard. The frosts customer service guys were extremely good. Believe me, this paint goes like granite. I would do a test run on something like trailing arms first, remember about thorough degreasing and follow steps to the letter. The chassis black is made by the same company. Check out Frosts website or order catalogue.
  18. Couple of points ref handling and drivetrain of original vehicle. The gears seemed to really clunk when clutch released, the gearbox was ok although pretty worn. I had recently fitted HD clutch. The suspension was very poor around corners(Procomp shocks fitted 2 years prior with original HD springs) and was pretty awful especially over things like speed bumps and braking whilst turning. So, having put the Terrafirma big bore and Old Man Emu HD springs, Super-pro bushed and new A-frame assembly, it is difficult to assess exactly which component had the most effect. The suspension is now 1000% better, in damping and ability to ride out bumps. The handling around the corners is more surefooted. I rang around alot of people with regards to suspension set up and am extremely happy with the results. The gearbox took few miles to bed in, it was difficult to get into revers. On ordering, i upgraded to a cross drilled input shaft in the process. Again, the sloppiness had gone, it feels tight and corerct like new.
  19. I understand why they do it, ie to sell more vehicles, but how much in the scheme of things can it cost to galv chassis at production stage.
  20. yeah, it worked out better than i expected to be honest, however, dont believe anybody that says chassis swapping is cheap. I was lucky that the bulkhead didnt need changing or it would have been a much bigger undertaking. Hopefully it should last for few years now. Next job in spring, the interior!
  21. Procedure: Give it a gd clean, apply marine clean (degreaser), apply metal ready or mordaunt solution, give a wash with soapy warm water. The metal will go black. Apply POR 15, it is very expensive, so use whole tin in one go, supplied by Frosts paints. (I used 2 coats of grey primer). Then apply POR chassis black, again , i used 2 coats. Take your time to get first steps done correctly. Dont get primer on your hands, it really sticks!!! I also did front trailing arms and axles, the axles were a pig to do as primer only started to stick on third attempt properly. There were 2 reasons for painting, firstly to chnage colour of galv and second to give another level of protection. I plan to waxoil the cavities soon. Good luck!
  22. I was informed salisbury are very expensive to overhaul. It was cheaper for me to bin the salisbury and go for TD5 axle and new prop shaft. Ring KAM diffs for second opinion!
  23. Galv chassis swap dec 10.

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