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defninety

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Everything posted by defninety

  1. Early Td5 cooling systems use that blanked pipe for the fuel cooler. Later systems don't. They Tee back into the main pipe work. However late radiators still have the stub pipe fitted but not drilled, this can be a bit confusing if you have early pipework but a later radiator!
  2. From the Rave manual to disable traction control: TC can be disabled by operating the brake pedal ten times within ten seconds, when the ignition is turned on. TC will be re-activated when the ignition is turned off then on again. As JST said other than you don't have to have the engine running. Alternatively there are several abs fuses and relays you can remove also. It depends if you want it off permanatly or just for a one off. Also removing the fuses will put the ABS light on permanantly which is an MOT failure and there are no bulbs you can remove on a Td5 to get rid of it!
  3. I must admit I'm starting to get a bit of judder on my Td5. When it gets worse I think I will go for the solid flywheel. Probably doesn't help that I have Porny's Stage 2 remap either!!!!
  4. I have genuine red polybush kit fitted to mine along with a QT weekender kit and their corrected and cranked arms. I can safely say it has no problems with flex using these bushes. The only things that limits them is the prop binding and the wheels in the arches and far as they go!! Cheaper non genuine polybushes seem to be inferior in quality and don't seem to last well.
  5. As already mentioned you can get proper caliper paint but it is quite pricey. Most High temp paint will be fine. I use a spray can of engine enamel (no primer required) it around £5 a can and have the benefit of a big industrial oven at work to bake them in afterwards. I usually put on 4-5 coats and fully bake them and the come out very well indeed. Rock hard and last very well but as with all painting it's in the prep!! BTW when I bake them they are stipped and have no pistons or seals in. Don't do it with a fully built caliper!!
  6. Only a problem if you depress the clutch pedal after after you remove the key from the mech lock. If you lock the mech lock but leave the clutch pedal up and do not depress it you can fit the FMJ without an issue. If however someone gets the FMJ off you can rest a sure that once the depress the clutch they are going no where!!
  7. I was just wondering... does anyone know why you have to use a word with 4 or more letters or the search doesn't work???? I know this can be set to whatever by the powers at be, but it seems a common occurrence on pretty much all forums. It it a default setting or it it to stop rubbish results???
  8. i believe there are some pics in the members vehicle forum of trayback projects, but you need 20+ posts to access it!
  9. Steady on, I'm was just asking a question as to why there is a restriction in one part of the forum. I'm just trying to be a part of the forum and contribute to a post someone has made. Not once have a criticised the decision to restrict it. The idea of sectioning the forum is to keep relevant topics in some kind of order. If I join the forum and say "hello people I have a landy here's the details and pics of it" the best place in my eyes to post it would be the members vehicles section but I can't until I have posted X number of times that was the point I was trying to make!
  10. True I guess but unless you posting up details of the security you have on your Land Rover or the street you live in I just fail to see the security side of restricting people viewing a particular part of the forum. Also the member vehicle section tends to be an area that newbies visit and post details of their own Land Rovers (as I originally did) but now they can't!
  11. I guess as the majority of people will have the required number of posts it probably wouldn't be a true reflection!
  12. ..... but surely having to make 20 short pointless posts in order to access it isn't going to put off people who want to eye up people vehicles to steal would it??
  13. Yep I would agree with the above, much easier to buy a good disco transfer box and sell yours! You should be able to break even without much hassle.
  14. Bit of a contradiction in terms! You tend to find you get what you pay for. For a clutch you could try eblag I paid around £80 delivered for a OE one, there was quite a few on there at one point. Crankshaft damper a difficult one, if you want new I'd imagine dealer only. 2nd had try a few sellers on ebay such as autocraft4x4_midlands. Crankshaft spigot is £1-2 from a dealer if I remember correctly. A frame ball joint try X-Eng for one of their ones, if not try to find an OE one not britpart etc!!
  15. I had a feeling that it was the case, I thought I had been going mad!!
  16. Something like this would be the easiest option, albeit quite bulbous! Rear Winch Option Kev
  17. As already mentioned they will fit. However if you plan to use the wiper/HRS etc from the new type be aware that this is different. Post 2002 Td5's have a different chassis, bulkhead and rear door looms to that of the earlier vintage so this is will mean rewiring the rear door loom and fitting the earlier type connectors.
  18. I'm pretty sure it will cover it Mo. It's certainly for that era 200 and should cover all engines. I'll burn you a copy and pop it in the post tomorrow!
  19. Which age/shape 200 are you after. I have a Rave maual on CD for the bubble shape 200's etc. I can send you a copy if I can dig it out.
  20. It looks like Shire blue to me
  21. I'll have another go as it can be engine loom as it more than 4 pins! The only other grey plugs that I can remember are 2 which connect the bulhead loom to the chassis loom. They clip on to the master cylinder bracket. However on mine the are 6 pin plugs with only 4 used if I remember correctly. There are a few different level chassis/bulkhead loom combinations on Td5's not sure if you may have 2 different levels of looms.
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