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nidge

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Everything posted by nidge

  1. I had this on my last build, my way round it was - Remove the flange and fit some 5mm Vibromat soundproofing to the bulkhead and then use a 5mm neoprene seal on the flange and re -fit.... will give you an extra 8mm or so and also add some much needed soundproofing. Also the flange is flexible and will pull back more than you think. Nidge
  2. First Four do a Galvanized Tree Slider for 110 High Cap, might work but doesn't extend to the tub - https://www.firstfour.co.uk/shadow-defender-90-110-130-hi-cap-tree-sliders-galvanized-pair.html
  3. I've used the DoDo Mat under bonnet soundproofing on my last project, couldn't fault it - https://ie-dodomat.glopalstore.com/products/dodo-pro-acoustic-liner
  4. I'm near naas in Kildare , so be on your way to Clare if you come Thru Dublin. Nidge.
  5. Its off a 1996 x utility 110. Its not mint but better than most you see, has a couple of aerial holes in the roof but should paint up Ok. I'm open to any reasonable offer for it, as I'd be keen to get it out of the way and happy thats its getting used rather than scrapped !
  6. I have one here but in Ireland, I could take apart if maybe you had a way of shipping it ?? Nidge
  7. Never had any dealings with them so can't comment ........I was only trying to be helpful
  8. Give these lads a call - http://www.mdengineering.co.uk/shop/ N.
  9. Currently running puma station wagon rear springs and still find the ride too choppy and as per pic sits too high at the back, Considering OME 752 light duty springs, anyone running them, am I likely to need rear anti roll bar ?? Don't carry heavy loads or tow much and mainly only carries me and the 2 hounds Tks Nigel
  10. Thank you for taking the time to reply Dave, Is it much of a job to replace the rear 5th gear support bearings or am I looking at a complete rebuild or new recon box !! Nigel
  11. 2006 Defender with 80k on and done no work, Its developed a transmission bearing type noise thats been getting progressively worse and I'm struggling to pinpoint it. Seams to be coming from the front of the gearbox area. Only evident in 4 and 5th gear above 60kms, and gets progressively louder as speed increases. Gear changes all seam fine and engage as expected. Swapped out the old oil for Mtf still no change. Noise is still there even when I press in the clutch, its not spigot bearing or bush as I know how that goes. Tonight I removed front prop and took it for a spin ...up to 60kms you could just about hear the whine but barely ... but still there. Could it be front diff and sound travelling up the prop ? Am I right in assuming that the noise is still there in 4th that its unlikely to be a gearbox issue ?? I hope its not the gearbox as that will cost £££ to sort. Nigel
  12. Ralph they came from paddocks, not a bad job for the money, but time will tell if they last. And cheers to all for the kind words.....had a small issue with the paint bleaching on the bonnet caused by standing rain water and sunlight. Maybe I should have painted it in 2 pack....Have given it a good cut back and polished it up with wax so hopefully that will do the job.
  13. Just a quick note of Thanks to all on here who helped me during my current rebuild, whenever I had a problem i couldn't resolve, came on here and left with a solution every time. I reckon a forum donation is the order of the day. A few before and after pics of what you helped me achieve. Thanks Again Nidge.
  14. Refund received and many thanks to Jason for all his efforts Nidge.
  15. Does this look Ok.... I Still think it needs securing in some way or am I just bee a bit ott about this. Thanks for your patience ! Nidge
  16. Cheers for that Ralph, I had already considered as you say but am still a little concerned of the extra slack in the hose fouling...my plan was to use a P clip to secure the hose in some way but would be interested to see how others solved the issue Nigel Here is a picture of the project, as we all love a pic....mainly body work and paint left to do now, so nearly there.
  17. Having purchased a set of direct to caliper braided brake hoses for the current build, I am unsure of the best way to route the hoses, they do seem a tad long and will need securing to prevent damage. What's the best way to mount them ? And a pic would be great 300tdi defender 110 with 05 td5 axles They came from David a Llama 4x4.....and the quality is top notch ! Tks Nigel. Pic below loosely connected
  18. Clutch change worked out well in the end all back together now I did however break the little plastic clip on the clutch fork. It was early on Sunday morning with suppliers all closed and my gearbox ready to be mated back to the engine, so I had to get creative... Here is what I came up with, used the light spring metal plate that comes with a new horn !! hopefully it works Ok Thanks again for all the help and advice
  19. Seal came off without much effort in the end, using an sharp inverted paring chisel. All changed now using genuine gasket and seal, cut the heads off 3 long m8 bolts to guide the seal into place, looks to be on right.... Fingers crossed it won't leak Found an engineering shop to skim the flywheel for €55, it's worth doing at that price and will have it back by the weekend. Tks again for the input N.
  20. Thank you all for the advice, the cracks are only on the surface and disappeared after sanding, there are however 2 grooves in the wheel so needs either a skim or new flywheel. While I have the attention of the knowledgeable folk, whats your opinion on the seal to the rear crank seal plate in the picture, its looks to be welded on and will be a bugger to remove and will I do more damage removing it or leave as is and use gasket sealer on the new seal plate.
  21. Great Thanks a lot Lads....Always best to check with the experts N.
  22. I'm in the process of a complete chassis change and while access is good I decided to change the clutch and rear crank seal, its 300tdi Defender. Is there a need to change the flywheel as well ?? To me it doesn't look in great shape picture below - Tks Nigel
  23. As above Shane but most places here in Ireland look at you as if you have 2 heads if you ask for T-Wash. I did however find it in a place in Tullamore...Castle Paints I think they are called. Nigel.
  24. Thanks for the input will order up some Dinitrol stone chip and report back Nigel
  25. Removed the rear tub from the current project at the weekend and can't decide what to coat the underside with. Some flaking paint on the Alum but no rust to tub support brackets and all looks to be in good nick. So ideally any easy applied paint that will adhere well to the Alum Metal and original painted parts. I have used POR 15 on axles etc and other exposed metal parts but its a tad expensive to do the whole bottom of a 110 hardtop. Any Thoughts or what have you used ....I was thinking maybe Dinitrol Stone chip ? N.
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