Team Idris

You don’t have to worry about carrier flex if the crown wheel is restrained. It has to be a way better place to shove a shock load than out through the ring of bolts and the roller bearings.

Interesting, because I thought about pegging them. I asked crown-diffs about it when I ordered them and he said those carriers would do 300hp okay and I was running the 3.5 RV8. That will really make them tough The beast is on so many trucks. Mirror is on a John Deere gator down the road. Big yellow tow hook is on a Mitsubishi 4x4 a bit further down the road. It lives on

I’ve heard it was under pressure and the flow reversed and all sorts. But, I ran ordinary rubber hose onto non-swaged pipe and didn’t have an issue. Normally these things are low pressure. Also, I doubt you can buy an oil cooler with such a low pressure it could pop it?

I was thinking... but I didn’t because I sold the rangy KAM axel complete... that my 88 is 40hp and I could take later half shafts, cut them down and hand grind the six hub splines on. Which is a bit cruel, but they take a V8 for most silliness, so I figured I could take some extreme liberties

Last photo for this thread I guess? The wheel carrier is complete on the ‘wheel carrier roll bar seat belt mount’ A wheel nut makes an ace spacer for a 10mm bolt.

Yep, on the tailgate. Wire goes Behind the the tailgate loop latch, down the galvanised hinge, cable tie at the bottom and under the body. You could drill holes and poke it down the hollow sections? A bit free and loose seems to work better. S2 and S3 standard plates fit better because wider. S1 never seems to fit right? I guess that is why so many were painted on. I can put my military plate there and make a new one for the front.

They are ally and nylon truck ones I bought years ago for the van. 6mm holes. Nice hinge :)

My new old styled number plate holder. It swings down like an old rangrover.

Block up the drain holes and swill phosphoric acid around in there for a bit.

Rollover seat anchor wheel carrier is made It weighs nothing

I got the lathe to notch tube. Some trial and quite a bit or error (ally scaffold tube really grabs) anyhoo, it all looks feasible

Rather than put a spreader underneath that ought to be tied into the chassis, I went with this logic: 25mm by 2mm box with the nuts up the inside so it hasn’t got any welds to stress it. Six 20x20 short bits as spacers under the channel of the seat brackets. Six M8 bolts for the six galvo seat brackets that are made of 1mm steel. There are six bolts through the bulkhead which is pretty thin. Then twelve bolts at the bottom of the six brackets, six of which go through the tub and the seat box. The front tub mounts have those angle section 3mm aluminium to brace them and they are bolted throu

Still going. Security mesh is half done. (Was complete, upgrades) The lower seat belt rail is in. Time to think about the should strap anchors...

The rear tub work is down to the tedious small jobs, so here is the front end

Oh my flippin’ heck gosh this is a bad truck Admittedly only £300 in 1986, but every single item of the body has an issue with fatigue? I wondered why it had some weird looking backing plate. Turns out it was a bit of scrap metal they used to hold the latch in place.