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Team Idris

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Everything posted by Team Idris

  1. Thanks Fabrication and gas heat done for this stage of work. The ‘old steel front’ is bolted back in and everything aligned. -taking it to a car show next weekend Then the fitting or the LH outer mud guard (inner top looks to have had a tractor exhaust cut in it) once I have panel beaten it back into shape. And then the biggy, the rear tub fixes Might leave that for the winter?
  2. As far as I can tell; both main series one types have three bolt holes on the side, but on 80” the bottom inner wing holes are about 4.5” apart and the 86-88” are 3.5” apart. 80” has three main types: lights behind the grill, (well early), lights through the grill (ally)(bottom grill tags are riveted on) and lights either side of the grill (ally) (looks like S2)(grill tags are stamped from the front ally sheet) 88” is steel, one big hole, same rad mount holes as 80” but (As said) different inner wing bolt spacing. Grill tags are back to being riveted on. 86” don’t know to be honest. Here is a picture of my mates 86-88” with the inner wing drilled for the earlier front.
  3. Once upon a long time ago (early 90’s) I was in a rush to get my Landy back on the road for work. On the list of many things I needed to avoid was welding up the rad box. So I used the one off the very early 80” GVJ 195. Which should have had the lights behind the grill but had been upgraded. Now I have time to weld it up and have done so, (before there wasn’t enough left to study what it should be like) (bottom rail) Here is the the aluminium 80” one with a cross bar and side holes and the 88” one, now reunited with my 58’ I cant imagine the ally one ever rots out, but if someone needs one it’s going back up the garden with the 80” windscreen that no one wants fascinating how a part you wouldn’t look at twice is vastly different. Headlights hole pressing ‘out’ vs ‘in’ on the ally one.
  4. Thanks a lot of ‘me’ heritage with it, and nice that it is unrestored, just repaired. Every dent an adventure
  5. I think so Enough that I built a mesh cage inside it so it could be locked. It arrived brown and that kind of suits it as long as it is a lighter one. It’s winding me up this evening because the hinge bolt jammed in that thin metal captive nut plate Had to go find a spare door, drill the bolt heads, remove captive nut thing, get red hot, release threads and that’s a lot of faffing around just for one sized bolt ! Should be good when it’s done. I didn’t think removing a patch plate for the old wing mirror would lead to bulkhead welding and door work. Honestly, it’s as time hungry as my race Landy 15th July 2019 My big choice was a bowed front wing, or fix that and create a dimpled wing. I decided to slap it around a bit and shrink the big flat bit with fire so it it looked good from a distance and then a skim of filler so it looked okay up close. The picture is pre-filler. Half mm dink’s is about as good as I can get them. It needs to be bolted on for the final large adjustments via brute force. You can’t pull the wheel arch edge on the floor, it just flops about.
  6. I think so Enough that I built a mesh cage inside it so it could be locked. It arrived brown and that kind of suits it as long as it is a lighter one. It’s winding me up this evening because the hinge bolt jammed in that thin metal captive nut plate Had to go find a spare door, drill the bolt heads, remove captive nut thing, get red hot, release threads and that’s a lot of faffing around just for one sized bolt ! Should be good when it’s done. I didn’t think removing a patch plate for the old wing mirror would lead to bulkhead welding and door work. Honestly, it’s as time hungry as my race Landy
  7. It’s origin front panel is also getting some heavy therapy. Nearly fixed it without filler, but it needed a smear. (A bit of weld wrinkle) It has the 1950 one on there at the moment that is aluminium. That will need a good home when this one goes back on. It’s very much the same part, but it is the one where the grill goes around the headlamps.
  8. Thanks It is the 88” series one two wheel drive. (I have the bits in the shed) Below the screen is all original. It’s not epic, but it is still there. I drilled it for oil/wax oil holes. This is my first car I got it for my sixteenth birthday back in the mid 80’s. Engine has proper low down torque. Currently has radial tyres and parabolic springs. That has upped the off road and on-road manners. Still drives like a tractor though!
  9. Yay, got it welded today and fixed the dimension issue with the door that I caused the bulkhead in the early 90’s The yellow paint says I had the whole assembly on the right hand side too far forward
  10. A piece of old rangrover helped with a hole in the top of the wing. No idea what it did, nicely drilled, but didn’t look like it was ever used? The curved panel repairs are easier than the flat ones.
  11. Also, a lot of work on the front mud guard, including filling in the extra holes again, because the pop rivets showed through after a couple of years
  12. 1118***** had a quite a refit in the early 90’s, but tin worm ate it all again I gave it a 3mm steel foundation, made these bits last night and maybe I’ll get a bit of time to weld it all back in?
  13. Yay, it didn’t fold up (and we tested it by failing to drive over a log) It worked really well because yesterdays trial was very tight on width. The fiddle brakes are also working like they should and the ground was just right for them.
  14. It came out well for a hole saw and grinder part basically an adapter to turn one master cylinder port into two.
  15. New fiddle brake set under construction with 1/2 inch pistons.
  16. Wow a long time ago 1992/3 maybe. Just after body removal and before hacking the rangy bits off the chassis. edit; I think that is just after it was shortened by 14”. We kept the outriggers on to use as measuring points.
  17. Some vid of the other side showing water lines, dry sump bits and modifications.
  18. Yep, it might work okay with enough bracing I mean, it’ll work great as long as it doesn’t crumple up... Anyhoo, I haven’t had to butcher the truck to try it
  19. Yay, I figured it out I have been thinking about it for ten years, but I couldn’t get a workable ‘tube run’ that missed everything. The idea is that a big roll feeds the mass of the engine and front axel into the roll bar. The bar has a bend so it isn’t a pokey shock load on the front hoop. Trees will ride over the cage better. The outriggers have less to do, as does the bolted in cross member that ties them together. The chassis section can be reduced to bend the radius arm away from the tyre. (Max steering travel without wide rims and spacers)
  20. My ideal would be one inch stainless steel bar hot bent I gave the Beast a good clean today and the rear tyres are wrecked ! I cannot believe how we have shredded the corners off the tread
  21. This thread is missing the after/before back-end reduction photo It helps a lot, it didn’t drag its back end at all on Sundays trial with ‘Shropshire Off Road Club’. The mirror on the back is to see that the front winch rope is behaving itself. New LED side lights as well
  22. Goodwinch take off the roller fairleads and put on slots for rope. They get thrown in a container. I grabbed some and use them for stuff like this The mushroom fairlead is also made from one.
  23. The donut goes on the end of the tube I fitted back in June. Then it goes under this modified alternator pulley to change direction to the rear mounted winch. The pulley is across from the HP22 selector arm.
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