Team Idris

Wow a long time ago 1992/3 maybe. Just after body removal and before hacking the rangy bits off the chassis. edit; I think that is just after it was shortened by 14”. We kept the outriggers on to use as measuring points.

Some vid of the other side showing water lines, dry sump bits and modifications.

That’s quite a wiggle :o

Yep, it might work okay with enough bracing I mean, it’ll work great as long as it doesn’t crumple up... Anyhoo, I haven’t had to butcher the truck to try it

Yay, I figured it out I have been thinking about it for ten years, but I couldn’t get a workable ‘tube run’ that missed everything. The idea is that a big roll feeds the mass of the engine and front axel into the roll bar. The bar has a bend so it isn’t a pokey shock load on the front hoop. Trees will ride over the cage better. The outriggers have less to do, as does the bolted in cross member that ties them together. The chassis section can be reduced to bend the radius arm away from the tyre. (Max steering travel without wide rims and spacers)

My ideal would be one inch stainless steel bar hot bent I gave the Beast a good clean today and the rear tyres are wrecked ! I cannot believe how we have shredded the corners off the tread

This thread is missing the after/before back-end reduction photo It helps a lot, it didn’t drag its back end at all on Sundays trial with ‘Shropshire Off Road Club’. The mirror on the back is to see that the front winch rope is behaving itself. New LED side lights as well

Goodwinch take off the roller fairleads and put on slots for rope. They get thrown in a container. I grabbed some and use them for stuff like this The mushroom fairlead is also made from one.

Roller set in place via a clamp in case I got it wrong

The donut goes on the end of the tube I fitted back in June. Then it goes under this modified alternator pulley to change direction to the rear mounted winch. The pulley is across from the HP22 selector arm.

Sort story me and dad bought it in 1991, started it in 1992 and finished it in 1995, in his proper wide garage with a pit. Plenty of room to work on this one while racing it and starting on the next. he moved Not the end of the world for me though, because a lot of normal bits fit. I even used the original rangy bulkhead and tunnel to save time and use easily available bits. (Column and brakes). What I loose in performance I gain in availability it mostly only stopped due to cash flow while at university.

I couldn’t see any for sale, so I knocked this up from some fairlead tube

Yes, a most interesting mechanical puzzle. Will the rope go over the big 1972 box-section centre cross-member or will I have to ‘tube’ that as well? It is too close to call just looking at it. Too much radiator pipe covers to see the front tube from the back. Excited to find out Front donut will be a Goodwinch roller fairlead stainless-tube that is lobster cut into a circle. I can’t find anything to buy?

That looks like it’ll work. Winch is pointing the right way, but I need to turn the truck around to sort the run between it and the chassis tube. (Narrow garage) The vegetable-steamer exhaust silencer is back out of retirement. Being food grade stainless it is as good as new

A lot of work for 200mm cut off the back end? yes, but the back end was only ever like this because of ALRC rules. It would have been even shorter in 1995 given a choice. Now there are many more considerations and 100mm isn’t worth it and 300mm makes everything not fit. 200mm and the porridge is just right

It is all a wiggle and a challenge to fit Jamie, but: I can get the battery under the drivers seat with 100mm below the floor line and 100mm above. All I have to miss is the rear donut mount. I shouldn’t need two batteries for its next perceived race work, so the second battery gets removed. It smells like the back is going to loose about 6” in length? Quarter pipe cross member moves up as well as forward. All that moving around puts the front winch mount as far back as possible, just behind the centre line of the rear axel on the left hand side, but still inside the LH chassis rail. The rear winch rope may have to pass over front winch motor? The fuel tank also goes up and forward The front rope then has 2 foot to self reeve before it passes through the big square central crossmember. If that hole is a tube-slot it gets more free movement. Aim: get the back axel load heavier than the front, ditch the ALRC silhouette, reduce weight globally and make the front as light as possible so it kicks over terrain rather than ploughing in. I want my cake and eat it

A nice picture someone took yesterday and some vid by another kind person Shropshire Off Road Club

Sweeeet Are you putting a ring around the upright below the table? So it can still swing about? the old trick was a pulley at the top and a counterweight down the back. Before folk started using springs, which I hate, because they break.

They have some at rakeway, but they are large top-rope-line ones. So really my plan is to wait a bit and fabricate a steel one or turn out an ally one. Or go insane and get an SS one made I figured it was the easy part compared to the stuff at the other end of the tube, which will be tricky and a half. Also, love your truck

Oooh, good question It is as steep as it can feasibly be before I can’t see the front edge. You could call it a negative-virtual-lift, because the engine sits much higher in a Range Rover classic than in a series one Landy. Folk normally jack the body up to allow for the wheel movement, but It was never able to take the bonnet in the normal position and last time I needed more space I gave it the full lift. the gauges are now along its back edge. They are outside the cab area.

Shorter, but is it short enough? Will it cut through earth, or still flump into it like the front skid plate did? There is a LOT less weight that before. (No valves, tank, pipes, bumper mount)

I would think oil was as important as bearings? To actually explode a bearing takes some doing unless the surface has broken up. That only happens if the oil film has broken down. Might be cheaper to fit a pumped oil cooler and run fully synthetic high-duty oil.

Weirdly, after much struggling, this couldn’t really have come out better? I get a bit more chassis strength and the rope pipe is straight. i am thinking of putting the roof winch back in, running the rope vertically to a pulley and back down to a floor pulley. That should self reeve happily on its own.

I also want the winch off the front, but still have a front winch. yes, I am aware of the irony of inventing a sliding fairlead only to change to ‘vector’ Anyhoo, two hours fun involving wrecking a 40mm hole saw and beating the life out of the LHD internal brace it is mostly out

Too long Well, to be precise, we were nose diving at Sunday’s trial with Shropshire Off Road Club. So I came home and cut the front off. I need it to cut-and-doze rather than slap-and-climb. (If that makes sense)