Team Idris

"This is a Land Rover forum and not a Triallers forum, correct?" Is it, cause' boy am I in the wrong place I mean, if anyone is a fan of real early classic rangerovers, the ones with the funny centre diff, you really don't want to know what I've done to 35502070A But have to agree, single seat super-mods are funny looking and a nad anti-social with no passenger seat

My first thought; Compression won't have much effect becuse the pressure is there to push the piston back down on what could have been the power stroke if diesel fuel was present. Its just an air spring. But; compressing air creats heat which is passed into the cylinder walls and oil. The crank turning force is turned into heat energy, the same as the brakes turn the rotating energy into heat via friction. Proof that above must be true is that energy cannot be destroyed or created, only moved around. So 'engine braking' must turn watts mechanical into watts "somthing" and heat sound favorite. Diesel does more air compressing so it'll be the better brake As a footnote, a flap/valve in the inlet manifold in a compressor is a 'suction offloader' which creates a vacuum. The compressor runs 'free' as compressing nothing takes no energy! For extra pub-quiz knowledge; a 3kW electric compressor produces 3kW of heat. It's as though you compress the air by pumping the heat out of it !

And I run radious arm bush engine mounts. The trick was to let the bush tube into the engine leg to keep standard chassis mount QT ones looked like too thin on rubber?

I gave up on both S1 and RRC challenge chassis. Both now have stainless flexible on them. The S1 has it from the manifold down behind the wing. The RRC has a solid exhaust clamped at the transfer box mount and is stainless flexi from there to the silencer group. If you smack the exhaust the problem is localised and isolated as well.

There's a West Midlands you know dave Newton Lodge looks like the place to play in 2012 for me

These things happen. Call it 5 rounds and be delighten if a 6th appears. A final round depends on ground availability and then the orgnisation of a permit. And I think the MSA penalize a club who applies for a permit, but doesn't hold an event. Plus, you got a season. We did 2.5 hours at round one, and that was it for this year. The trucks still not running. Thats fate!

I got oil pressure up yesterday. I'm getting 55 psi with the relief valve backed right off on 20/50. But that is with a stationary engine, which isn't 'using' oil? I'm hoping the built in relief valve is able to give a 40+psi hot running pressure with out excessive cold starting pressure. I guess I'm only an aux relief away from a cure if it turns out bad. But this is more of a system problem than sump. Still better than fighting to bleed a rover pump! But I logged on to write about leak past. Normally the tank is low in cars, but with a high tank and natural bypass and segment lube, I'm loosing oil into the sump while parked. So I intend to buy a boat engine oil service pump. They are cheap enough, and I only need to pump enough oil into the tank, to start up and get the scavenge pumps turning. So the spare port I put in by changing my design part way through the fab, will be handy place for the hand pump. If your reading this for a dry sump build I suggest fitting a spare port in your sumps screened area or with a local gauze, incase you have the same problem

Can the relief valve jam open on this engine? I know he's nothing like the 3.5 valve! But have to ask as many engines have sleeve inards on the relief valve.

"if you're fitting a thermoswitch to activate an electric fan on the main radiator, this should go in the radiator *outlet* not the inlet." I'll have to ask for an explanation I think neither works well.

Those are prefix 'A' challance then, as the 'B' has 7 bolts. I guess if it does RTV okay then its strong, but there seems somthing hinky about using two instead of four steering arm bolts

38mm steel exhaust pipe thats been in about 15 years. The inside looks better than the outside due to antifreeze Ideally it would be under the floor where it could do more cooling, but it's nice and safe inside. The crinkles are from bending with a gas welder.

Here are the water hoses sneaking up the leaft hand chassis leg; Rear rad frpm front; Rear Rad from rear; Rear fan runs all the time. Half speed for this and that, full speed for challenge. The two front fans are on thermostat

This winters job then.................... I've got me tank in; http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=47329&start=180 Which is the next question after the sumps been made. 200mm diameter, 400mm deep, with a mesh/screen 100mm up from the bottom and bolt on lid. I'm hoping I dont need an oil cooler, the gearbox cooler fan being right next to it.

I can't see anything other than a full width V8 rad cooling him, but hell, it might work? I know my 3.5 kicks out loads of heat, but its on carbs. I know I couldn't do it. And adding a donut oil cooler will add even more heat load to the rad water. Engine bay heat seems to be worse on V8 than 4 pot because two exhaust manifolds are heating the space. On the 4pot there's only one manifold, so hot air can escape on the other side of the engine over the rocker box. I considered a sucking bonnet fan, as the fuel was boiling in my carbs after an hours winch challenge. We believed we could never get ahead of the manifolds heat output. So I fitted a blower fan right over the carbs, which sorted him out. But I'm rear-rad, so engine air flow really was restricted! I wouldn't think there is enough gearbox oil flow to shift the heat from stalling the torque for a long period, as its small bore pipe. So my best guess was a 16 row intercal cooler, about 6" wide with 235 between the fittings. It lives in the passenger side footwell, blowing out into the wing space, with a 7" spal fan. It avoids the mud there. Engine oil cooler was also a 16row intercal/mocal/oxford style cooler with 5/8" bsp fittings. Fitted in my Comp days, it was also in the footwell and kicked out enough heat to act as a cab heater. But it's just been removed to make way for the dry sump tank. I believe oil temp will be okay on winch challenge, which is short bursts of power ??? (Now carrying more oil to act as heat buffer) Thats where I am with it It did cross my mind that it got hotter in mud pits, as it blocked the air out of the bottom of the truck. So what if I ran a fluid pipe so low it sat in the mud?

I bought a Kenlow hotstart years back, which is on a timer. Does what you'ld expect without any fuss. I tried the Propex, and air heat is okay. But I'd rather have a warm engine!

While we are on the subject, I'm yet to connect the kick-down cable. Anyone got a photo of the termination at the carb end?

Front radious arm to axel bushes? Allowing the axel to rotate on decelerating? If the rear bushes were stuffed, the front may be on the way out? Or the bolts not tight enough to crimp the tube in the bush. (radious arm or panard rod)

"I started a brief tidy up of body cappings and am now into a full rear tub rebuild!" I hear that. Alternator light turned out to be an engine re-build with another block. I'd say it was a landrover thing, but I think 'Old vehicle' thing would be more accurate.

On the canal boats its typically a starter battery on one side and two deep cycle batteries on the secondary. My vans a starter and a deep cycle. I've got matching batteries on the challenge truck, but thats because I put winch to starter duty and bought new winch battery. Normally they're always different. But I guess they'd recieve a full charge better if they are the same and your on relay split charge?

Easy life Build a body on the battered disco. Sell the portals for fun money. That money will put some better internals in the disco axels. Then you can do LRS, who don't allow portals.

Noodles. Was looking forward to a good watch. It was part of my 'inspiration package' to finish the Team Idris truck And was picking up a part for work as well! Hope you can get another event in place soon. And an extra big thankyou to the guys setting out.

It has been said many times the 3.5 Rover V8 should have 30 weight engine oil as it is an older engine. But now mines been rebuilt and no longer uses the rover oil pump and relief valve, would it be better with a modern multigrade engine oil? We have both on site.

If its been fertalised it will develope into a fully grown engine Got an odd looking clip out of my rocker box. Suprised it didn't jam anything? Normally stuff gets poured in. Maybe it took a while to shake down into the sump?

I'm jumping back in the thread a bit, but another trick for thin-to-thick welding is to fold back an edge on the thin, so your welding double thickness.

No, upside down is a pig of a job. It's 'ideal' vs 'practical'. Ideally the weld is underneath and sealed from road water, but in reality thats for a 'perfect build'. The open joint underneath of an 'easy life weld' will last a long time and you'll probably seal it well, so it won't be a big issue.