Jump to content

dag019

Settled In
  • Posts

    63
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

1 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Warwick

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Something no-one else has suggested yet is swap the hilux for the 130, and use that as a daily drive. Nothing wrong with a tdi as a daily drive, has been mine for the last 10 years. That way you can continue to work on the series until that is fully up and together but still get the ideal vehicle you have coveted in the past. plus as stated previously it does not sound like it should take much to get the series fully operational.
  2. It was my understanding that the HD springs used for 110 fronts were the same part as standard 90 rear springs.
  3. I have got rid of the centre box in my 110. I replaced it with a second front section which worked no problem with my conversion as was a lot cheaper than the "special" box removal pipes. I do not know if this is an option for a standard vehicle as the front section with my conversion is cut down to length.. It makes slightly louder but not really noticeable. i did not notice any other difference. Certainly not the huge power increase some places claim, but I was never expecting that. I did it because I had managed to tear a big hole in the centre box offroading. At the time I was a student and the front section was cheaper than the silencer and stopped it happening again. I have replaced it since but never bothered refitting the centre box.
  4. If you find somewhere selling ss exhausts off the self that are sectional let me know. Every time I come to need to replace a section of mine I have a look, but everywhere sells them as a complete kit or a custom build. Both of which are a little heavy on the bank balance to justify when there is only one piece that needs replacing. I have stainless down pipe as I have a 200tdi conversion in the 110 but the front centre and rear are all standard. Because of this you might find it very easy to get what you are looking for as you will be able to buy a complete off the shelf system that is a direct replacement for standard.
  5. I have 265/75's on the 110 but I personally don't like wide tyres on a series and have a set of 7.50's on mine. I think they are more in keeping with the period characteristics of a series motor. However the difference between 255/85 and 265/75 in practical terms you will notice driving the vehicle is very little. The diameter (and therefore the gearing) makes more difference to an under-powered series than the width. The only thing you will have to check with the wider 265 tyre and your offset is that it wont catch the wing at full articulation. But there is a 109 near where I work running 265 mud terrains so it is certainly possible.
  6. I do not have a sedimenter ('89 110). I did not realise they had a non return valve but makes sense when you think about it. Can this be cleaned? I do not want an electric pump and like the mechanical ones. The delphi is the best that I have found, no name brands from britpart and bearmach are lucky to last a couple of months, and were never happy running on WVO, although performed fine on pure derv for a couple of months until they failed. But I have not run WVO for years so that is not causing the problem anymore.
  7. Got to be worth a go depending on the price. I cannot seem to get even the delphi ones to last more than about 12months/20k
  8. I have repaired the battery boxes in both of mine. The series had a patch welded in as it was only a small hole similar to yours, the 110 had a YRM box fitted which is very good and easy to do. I removed the seatbox to do mine as at the same time I replaced the end pieces and the sill rails which had been repaired previously. Either method is easy enough to do it just comes down to cost, as would fiberglass although I have not done that myself.
  9. https://www.paintman.co.uk/product-category/coach-enamel/land-rover-stock-colours/landrover-paint-blues/ Post 1956 RAF Blue Grey is also known as BS381c 633 (copied form the website above) There does appear to be a different blue grey colour for pre 1956
  10. I would use a combination of both the methods mentioned above. When fitting the gearbox cross member you jack the rails apart to be able to slide it into place so a ratchet strap pulling them in "gently" should give you a couple of mm without the risk of distorting the chassis (I wouldn't want to pull the chassis in the full 12mm). That is then a couple of mm less that you will need to spread the bulkhead.
  11. I had a similar problem with a britpart exhaust section using the triangular clamps. I just carefully elongated the holes of both of them until they nearly lined up. But as that was a very cheap part, I expected to have to do some fettling.
  12. I would second that guess, they were what were fitted to mine when it was lifted, they are readily available in extended versions and fairly cheap. Super Gaz shocks are yellow so could be the other pair but I have no experience with them for a better way to tell than a guess based on colour.
  13. Thank you I hadn't looked at the engine mounts, I will check those this evening, although again I would have expected this to show both in high and low range. I am awaiting a call back from Ashcroft so hopefully will have their thoughts later today, but I am leaning towards i being an internal problem with the box as well.
  14. I have now readjusted the selctor and it has made no differance. I have had a drive down the road with the centre panel out to see if I can feel anything through the casing and I cannot. With a hand on the casing the handbrake, top and bottom transfer case and transfer reflector casing all feel normal. But if you hold the transfer selector you can feel it. I did check all the mounts were good when I refitted but will check again to make sure everything is tight. But given the above if it was a mount I would expect to feel it through the casing which leads me to believe it is an internal problem. could it be anything to do with the clutch change? I will phone ashcroft when they are open tomorrow and see if they have any suggestions.
  15. If this were the case would i not get the noise when moving from engine braking to engine drive as the force of drive though the box is being reversed and should move the gear axially? If so this is not the case it is only when initiall taking up drive. I checked and regreased all of them when i had them off to change the box over and they are all good. I have done a bit more investigation now. Contrary to my original post it does not make the sound when it is in low range, or when it is in reverse. But diff lock in high make no differance. You can aslo fell the click most prominntly though the low range gear lever and I feels as if the lever moves slightly as the click happens. Is this likely to be a linkage issue where it is not fully selecting high range unitl it starts to drive?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy