dag019

Something no-one else has suggested yet is swap the hilux for the 130, and use that as a daily drive. Nothing wrong with a tdi as a daily drive, has been mine for the last 10 years. That way you can continue to work on the series until that is fully up and together but still get the ideal vehicle you have coveted in the past. plus as stated previously it does not sound like it should take much to get the series fully operational.

It was my understanding that the HD springs used for 110 fronts were the same part as standard 90 rear springs.

I have got rid of the centre box in my 110. I replaced it with a second front section which worked no problem with my conversion as was a lot cheaper than the "special" box removal pipes. I do not know if this is an option for a standard vehicle as the front section with my conversion is cut down to length.. It makes slightly louder but not really noticeable. i did not notice any other difference. Certainly not the huge power increase some places claim, but I was never expecting that. I did it because I had managed to tear a big hole in the centre box offroading. At the time I was a student and the front section was cheaper than the silencer and stopped it happening again. I have replaced it since but never bothered refitting the centre box.

If you find somewhere selling ss exhausts off the self that are sectional let me know. Every time I come to need to replace a section of mine I have a look, but everywhere sells them as a complete kit or a custom build. Both of which are a little heavy on the bank balance to justify when there is only one piece that needs replacing. I have stainless down pipe as I have a 200tdi conversion in the 110 but the front centre and rear are all standard. Because of this you might find it very easy to get what you are looking for as you will be able to buy a complete off the shelf system that is a direct replacement for standard.

I have 265/75's on the 110 but I personally don't like wide tyres on a series and have a set of 7.50's on mine. I think they are more in keeping with the period characteristics of a series motor. However the difference between 255/85 and 265/75 in practical terms you will notice driving the vehicle is very little. The diameter (and therefore the gearing) makes more difference to an under-powered series than the width. The only thing you will have to check with the wider 265 tyre and your offset is that it wont catch the wing at full articulation. But there is a 109 near where I work running 265 mud terrains so it is certainly possible.

I do not have a sedimenter ('89 110). I did not realise they had a non return valve but makes sense when you think about it. Can this be cleaned? I do not want an electric pump and like the mechanical ones. The delphi is the best that I have found, no name brands from britpart and bearmach are lucky to last a couple of months, and were never happy running on WVO, although performed fine on pure derv for a couple of months until they failed. But I have not run WVO for years so that is not causing the problem anymore.

Got to be worth a go depending on the price. I cannot seem to get even the delphi ones to last more than about 12months/20k

I have repaired the battery boxes in both of mine. The series had a patch welded in as it was only a small hole similar to yours, the 110 had a YRM box fitted which is very good and easy to do. I removed the seatbox to do mine as at the same time I replaced the end pieces and the sill rails which had been repaired previously. Either method is easy enough to do it just comes down to cost, as would fiberglass although I have not done that myself.

https://www.paintman.co.uk/product-category/coach-enamel/land-rover-stock-colours/landrover-paint-blues/ Post 1956 RAF Blue Grey is also known as BS381c 633 (copied form the website above) There does appear to be a different blue grey colour for pre 1956

I would use a combination of both the methods mentioned above. When fitting the gearbox cross member you jack the rails apart to be able to slide it into place so a ratchet strap pulling them in "gently" should give you a couple of mm without the risk of distorting the chassis (I wouldn't want to pull the chassis in the full 12mm). That is then a couple of mm less that you will need to spread the bulkhead.

I had a similar problem with a britpart exhaust section using the triangular clamps. I just carefully elongated the holes of both of them until they nearly lined up. But as that was a very cheap part, I expected to have to do some fettling.

I would second that guess, they were what were fitted to mine when it was lifted, they are readily available in extended versions and fairly cheap. Super Gaz shocks are yellow so could be the other pair but I have no experience with them for a better way to tell than a guess based on colour.

Thank you I hadn't looked at the engine mounts, I will check those this evening, although again I would have expected this to show both in high and low range. I am awaiting a call back from Ashcroft so hopefully will have their thoughts later today, but I am leaning towards i being an internal problem with the box as well.

I have now readjusted the selctor and it has made no differance. I have had a drive down the road with the centre panel out to see if I can feel anything through the casing and I cannot. With a hand on the casing the handbrake, top and bottom transfer case and transfer reflector casing all feel normal. But if you hold the transfer selector you can feel it. I did check all the mounts were good when I refitted but will check again to make sure everything is tight. But given the above if it was a mount I would expect to feel it through the casing which leads me to believe it is an internal problem. could it be anything to do with the clutch change? I will phone ashcroft when they are open tomorrow and see if they have any suggestions.

If this were the case would i not get the noise when moving from engine braking to engine drive as the force of drive though the box is being reversed and should move the gear axially? If so this is not the case it is only when initiall taking up drive. I checked and regreased all of them when i had them off to change the box over and they are all good. I have done a bit more investigation now. Contrary to my original post it does not make the sound when it is in low range, or when it is in reverse. But diff lock in high make no differance. You can aslo fell the click most prominntly though the low range gear lever and I feels as if the lever moves slightly as the click happens. Is this likely to be a linkage issue where it is not fully selecting high range unitl it starts to drive?

I will check the pads thanks. What do you mean by the input gear being loose? Do you mean play between it and the gearbox output shaft splines or loose in a way that can be tightened?

I have just fitted an ashcroft rebuilt transfer-box and changed the clutch (genuine 130) on my 110. At the same time I replaced the handbrake pads on my x-eng disc brake conversion and changed to the new style clutch pedal spring. Having done all of this I now have a clicking noise when I take up drive. The noise is definitely a click rather than a clunk and was not present before doing this work. It does not always happen when changing gear but always happens when pulling off. High/low and difflock make no difference and it does not appear to to do it when in reverse. It sounds like it is coming from the centre/front area but this could be misleading, and it can possibly be felt through the clutch pedal and the gear leaver. Other than the clicking noise the vehicle feels and drives as it should, including the clutch and makes no other untoward noises.Having done a little research I will lube the clutch spring and see if that makes a difference but as it does not happen every-time I doubt it will.Does anyone have any suggestion of other things to check?Is it likely to be anything that will get worse/irreparably damaged if I continue to drive it?

The one that I had had a chain at the bottom just below the gauze filter, as pictures earlier in the thread. It also had the chain at the top for the filler cap. The problem with this is that you cannot just drill a hole as it will then be too wide to fit into the filler neck.

It also doesn't really matter where they attach to. I had problems with my old earth and fitted a new one (side of the road) that went from engine to chassis at the easiest bolts I could find which ended up being sump to mount this worked and when I replaced the original I did not remove it. I also have one going from gearbox to chassis as well. On a side note if the one you have is the exposed braided cable I would replace it with a larger insulated cable if you have to refit anyway. The reason mine failed in the first place was the braided cable had filled with mud and silt and corroded away, an insulated cable has a little more protection.

It could have just been what as to hand when the transfer box was fitted if it has been changed at some point. I helped a friend fit a second hand disco box to his 110 and it didn't come with the input gear so we just used the one from the old transfer box as it wasn't causing any problems. The only reason to change was the higher gearing.

Where as you are right, the important thing is that it fits, the fact that I have lost one means that I now definitely want he chain attachment at the bottom and will fit a longer length of chain so it can be removed if necessary but still be connected to the vehicle.

I should clarify, the tube that I had was also concave as you have described, when I say the bottom looked like this I was meaning the way in which the gauze was attached to the tube i.e. not bent over tabs, and the recessed attachment point for the chain. Unfortunately due to the shaped channel needed it would be difficult for me to make my own, but I may end up modifying one of the later ones to have the chain attachment and the concave gauze.

I have just had exactly the same thing, similar sounding whine, turned out to be the intermediate bearings in the transfer box so sent that off to Ashcroft to rebuild and should get it back today. I did it in exactly the way mentioned above. Removed the props and handbrake, disconnected the breathers, diff lock wire, and linkage, supported the transfer box (either jack or crane) to remove the mount and then took off the transfer box. I have the advantage of being strong enough to lift the transfer box myself so just removed it manually but I have done it in the past with an engine crane through the center seat access hatch. I also did the clutch at the same time as with that much removed already it is not much more of a job to move the gearbox back. Again very straight forward, remove the floors and tunnel, remove the two gear leavers, discontented the reverse switch and the breather, carefully remove the slave cylinder and tie up out of the way (no need to disconnect so you do not need to re-bleed), support the gear box on a crane through the passenger door and remove the mount, move the gearbox back and rest on the gearbox cross member which then gives enough room to access the clutch on the flywheel and the release fork on the gear box. One thing that I was recommended and is to lightly file a very small chamfer onto the inner edge of the spigot bush to aid with lining up the gearbox when refitting, I did this and the gearbox lined up and went in first time. Once you have done the clutch it is fairly easy to line up the gear box with the engine on the crane, if you are struggling it may help to jack under the engine a little so that it is slightly angled, I did this combined with the spigot bush and it wet straight on. I will be refitting the transfer box at the weekend but that is just the reverse process, I just lift it into place but it would be the same as the gearbox if you were using a crane.

I did not include the pictures because they are not mine and some people get very touchy about using their pictures without permission (I have had it in the past) despite the fact they are freely available on the internet with a simple google search. Although I fill up with Jerry cans fairly regularly and use it for this pump fuel does not flow through the gauze at the bottom quick enough so it keeps stopping, I therefore remove it to fill up at the petrol station. I have a filler cap similar to the one shown for an early defender with the three sprung prongs underneath, and the filler neck has the single protrusion which sits in the channel running up the extension the same as your last two photos,. However the bottom of my old filler did not look like the one you shown, it looked like the one below (not my photo). Both in the way the gauze filter is attached and the fact that there is a loop to attached the securing chain. This seems to be a combination of the two styles and one which I have not been able to find yet.

I have an '82 series 3 and i have managed to lose the fuel filler neck extension and want to replace it. Having looked online I am unsure what one I need. There appears to be two different part numbers in the book: 277262 and 504656. The problem is looking at photos neither of these look like what I had previously. The bottom of the one I had did NOT look like this (link) but instead looked more similar to this one (link) and had the chain attached to the bottom discussed in that thread (although it was too short so not attached hence losing it!). It was not smooth like the second link though and instead had the channels like the first one. It looks similar to this one (link) from an early defender. Does anyone know what part number I need to be looking for? Or even better does anyone have a spare one for sale?