kudlinski

Just trying to replace the head gasket on my td5 90. Lined up and locked the cam just can't find the access hold to lock the crank. Is it through the crank sensor? cheers paul

My 110 currently is playing silly devils with its lights. Mi currently have no rear indicator, brake light, or side light on the ns. I have swapped the fittings over from the OS and the fittings are ok, fuses are fine. Anyone cleverer than me with ideas from here? Thanks Paul

Thanks for all your input guys. I managed to track down the problem which turned out to be the fuel rail pressure sensor wiring which wasnt seating correctly on the sensor. Was fun and games tracking the problem down least its sorted and my fathers a happy man

I've put my snap on scanner on it and it shows nothing. It was a sudden loss of power and the car just coasted to a stop.

Help! My fathers freelander has just conked out on the a14 and is being recovered. Car just lost power and coasted to a stop and wnt restart. Fuel is getting through to the engine bay and it isn't throughing any fault codes. Would the high pressure pump just fail with no warning? The car has only covered 70k and is religiously serviced. Any help would be greatly appreciated

we have a whitbread cage and are well impressed for our truckcab 90, went for the extra bracing and is a really good cage! cant recomend them enough really useful and great value for money!

Perfect. Thanks very much I will get on and order some tomorrow.

Does anyone happen to know a company that sells plates that allow you to cut the bottom corners off a 90 tub to allow 35inch tyres to be fitted. Thanks Paul

Tomorrow I am installing a new rear loom on a project 90. Is there a specific point where all the earth`s for the lights should be led back to? Where are they earthed as standard? The current landy doesnt have any lights or loom at present hence my stupid question. Many thanks Paul

Dear All. I currently own a almost finished defender project (200tdi). The only thing that is letting is down is the wiring. It has been emersed in salt water, hacked about and is currently in a very very poor state. The master plan is to build a new loom. As this is a bit of a trailer queen i only need to be able to start and stop the engine, washers and wipers. I am reasonably practical but wiring is a black art to me. How would one go about desigining a loom from scratch? Is there anyone near Peterborough that could help for cash/ beer tokens? Another problem I have is that the truck is currently imobile on my drive. Is there anyway I can start the truck with a jump pack (turning the ignition on does nothing) directly to the starter? to get it on my trailer so I can transport her to my workshop. Any help apreciated. Thanks Paul

As stated I am currently on the hunt for a new land rover. I currently have a 300tdi disco and am looking for something newer. I am considering a td5 90, What are they like to live with on a daily basis? I primarily need something to tow large boat trailers around the country, shunt heavy trailers around in fields and be able to take a reasonable amount of kit in the back Are the heaters any better than the older ones (I had a 200tdi 90 which had a very poor heater). Would i be able to get a half decent one for around 8k? Cheers for looking Paul

Mike: That was extremely helpful, thanks! Shox dr: You are absolutly right but my loom has been hacked apart by a blind person so i dont have any faith in it at all. I have been doing some further thinking on the matter and is the following correct (im at work with out the aid of a wiring diagram so attempting from memory) for basic electrical items in the engine bay: Starter Needs a main positive from the battery, an earth wire, and a wire to conect to the ignition switch Glow plugs Direct positive feed off the battery, ignition feed, earth and conection to glow plugs Alternator Direct feed to live wire on starter?? (anything else?) Stop solinoid Connects to ignition but what else? Sorry if these are obvious questions but i hate car electrics

This is currently an idea of mine to replace the messed up wiring currently in my truck. I have a 200tdi 90 which is only ever used for offroad days and does not have or need an MOT. Its main problem is that at some stage in its life it was completly submersed in salt water and as a result the electrics have a mind of their own. I want to build my own loom to incoporate the bare minimum of features ie engine start stop, washers, wipes and thats it. What is the best way to go about building your own loom? What conections do i need on the engine side ie what needs power? Is this even possible for the average person who is fairly handy? Any ideas on what a professional would charge? Any suggestions on places to buy bits? I idealy want to use a marine grade fuse holder just to make the system simple, fool proof and water tight! Any advice greatly apreciated. Many thanks Paul

I am seriously thinking about buying a TD5 Disco. I have read the buyers guide on the forum but there are still several issues im unsure about; - I know that not all Disco`s come with a difflock. Can this be easily retro fitted to ones that dont? - I am going to look at a Disco commercial that has coil springs on the rear. As the truck will predominantly be used for towing heavy trailers can you buy "upgraded" stiffer springs to stop the back sinking? As a general aside what are they like as towing trucks? I will be using it to tow a 16ft ifor and a 25ft boat trailer most days. Whats the life like for gearbox`s and clutches if driven considerately? Cheers Paul

Cheers guys thanks for the response. Farmerboi, i havent taken my prop off so should the yokes still be inline? If it makes any difference i was towing a 3ton trailer the day before the vibrations occoured and the landy was fine, next day the vibrations started with a vegenace A quick look underneath earlier revealed there was alot of grease splaid out of the UJ at the gearbox end of the rear prop. I will try the leaver technique tomorrow and report back. Is it likely to be all the UJ's are knackered or just one?

Help! My 200tdi 1991 defender 90 has developed a horrible vibration. It appears at 50mph no matter what gear im in. If i accelerate past this the vibration gets better but still does not go away. If i dip the clutch or take my foot of the axcelerator it goes away completly. Now when the vibration occours the landy is not trying to force me anywhere and the steering is normal. Could it be the prop UJs are dead? If so how would i check? Any help gratefuly received! Thanks Paul

Perfect, will give it a go tomorrow, may as well do the diffs as well while im at it.

Thankyou all for the help. Replaced the oil today and it has made a huge difference, its like driving a new car again. Whilst i appear to be on a roll i want to replace the oil in the transfer case tomorrow. Would i be right in thinking the transfer case uses EP90?

I want to change my gearbox oil tomorrow on the main gearbox (LT77). Would ATF Q3 be ok to use as i already have some in the garage? Would changing the oil improve gear change as the box was really smooth until i put the landy in storage for a couple of months and now its really notchy. Any help appreciated Thanks Paul

Thankyou for such a indepth reply diesel jim. I have since measure my gaps and they come out at 880mm. This is clearly way off. I have loosely fitted the other brackets (attached to the footwell). My problem is now; - To get inlign with the 855 measurements the bulkhead needs to go towards the rear tub, however, the rear bulkhead is already touching the sills which attach to the seat box. - If i was to somehow move the bulkhead back this would force the doors down and make my problems of sagging doors even worse (the hinges are a little sloppy but were fine prebulkhead change) So whats the best course of action to take?

Im in the process of fitting a new (secondhand) bulkhead to my 200tdi 90. The new bulkhead is in and is currently attached by the two long bolts on the end of either door pillar. I have loosely put the screen and roof back on and they all fit fine, however i cant get my doors to fit. I have put the doors on but they are currently sagging by a good few inches even after i have ajusted the hinges. If i "lift" them by grabbing the handle i can just about make them catch. Where have i gone wrong? How can i align my doors. This has got me stumpted so any advice is apreciated. Thanks Paul

Right time for a small update. I have now got the landy to start and stop when you want it too!! It turned out to be a absolutly knackered starter motor. It was seized solid and even on the bench we couldnt get it to unseize. The stop solenoid was also the culprit for not stopping. Now onto the rest of the electrics.....

Thanks for the advice guys. The battle will begin on monday so here`s hoping it will be something fairly easy and logical. Cheers Paul

Ive been given the horrible job of trying to fix my mates 200tdi defender thats been submerged in water. Ive changed all the oils and filters and blasted all conectors with water repelants but its currently still displaying some strange traits. 1. It wont start on the ignition, there is a single click from the starter when the key is turned and thats it. I have put a new battery on and bashed the starter but to no availe. The landy starts fine if you bump start her but just not on the ignition. 2. When the landy gets going she is fine until you come to turn her off. Turn the ignition to stop and take the key out but she still keeps running. Could this be the stop solinoid on the fuel pump? Any ideas welcome as i am quickly developing a hatred of land rover electrics. Cheers Paul

Sounds simple enough. Im presuming the ends(flange) should mirror one another if the casings are going to be compatible