Tomas

Thanks a lot. Is there also a plug somewhere in the engine bay to drain the rest of the water from the engine?

Gentlemen, You will be laughing, but yes, I can be so stupid. I was following the instructions from Les "300TDI cylinder head removal" (great instructions btw) in order to change the gasket. Once I remove the last bolt and lifted the cylinder head, I hear sound similar to splashing the toilet! Yes, I forgot to drain the water before removing the head. The result is that the water is in oil, oil is in water and water is in the cylinders. (And I'm not talking about the mess on parking that my wife cleaned with Karsher last week.) So, I cleaned the cylinders from water and dried it with clean tissue and hot hair, and drained the oil from the engine. The questions that I have are: - how and where do I drain the water? - shall I clean the oil, water and cylinder engine compartments with something before fixing the head again and filling up the engine with the appropriate liquids? Thx in advance, Tomas

Wow. Actually, the answer to all those questions is yes, but I just did not thought about adjusting the slack. The problem is that I do not have any more time to try this now. I have to hit the route as I need to be on the other side of Germany tomorrow early morning. Then, I'll have no chance to look at this again until next weekend. And if it does not work, I'll be waiting yet another week for the part to be delivered. So - I have to order now anyway and I can try your advice next weekend. It with works, I'll have solenoid and a starter for sale ;-) Thx for all your help and advices - really appreciated. Tomas

I'm giving up. Have look .I took the starter out again and wired it outside the car. You can see that the drive comes out with no problem at all. When I put it back in the car and just screw the 3 main cables together (without attaching it to the main feed on the solenoid) and only connect the exciter cable, I can hear the driver popping up and down. When I connect only the main power supply, but not the exciter - nothing happens at all. And when I connect it all, the starter tuns, but the drive does not come out. I could go on like this for another two weeks - but I have enough. I'm going to buy the whole starter. p.s.: anybody interested to buy almost new solenoid? ;-)

Thx for advice. I was measuring only the power getting to the exciter. When I measure the voltage getting to the starter motor - the bolt with the 3 cables, I was getting some 54 V. However, as you could see/hear at the video, the starter turns OK and if (occasionally) the jagged wheel gets out - there is no problem to turn the engine. I'm going to pull a dedicated cable between battery earth and the bottom starter bolt to see if it makes a difference. The cabling differences is visible here:

Still no luck. The mechanics, including the throw out mechanism, are cleaner and operating better then when new. The electrical problem was a good hit, but I'm not that good in electrics. So, I have intercepted the cable that brings power to the solenoid (the exciter feed) with voltmeter. I'm not sure if I'm reading it right, but this seems to be OK. I put it on youtube. .I was also checking the "300TDi Disco starter motor" from Les. And noticed some cabling differences: a) On the 8Th picture from top, Les says that there is a main connection - he has one cable coming there. I have three cables coming to this bolt. b) On the same picture (and detailed on picture 12), there is an Earth cable connected to the bottom bolt. I don't have this cable. So, it could be a electric problem, but how come it started only now? Also, how do I fix this? I have no ideas what are those cables and what to do with them.

OK - I'm officially clue less now. I took the starter apart till the last screw. Sprayed with Balistol oil all over. The jagged wheel moves up and down if just just breathe to it. And still, sometimes it comes out and sometimes it does not. The success to start is 25% (like 1 out of 4 tries). Now - any idea is more then welcomed. Thx.

OK - the question is what is the definition of "freely" right? ;-) So, my impression was that the resistance was the same, or just a little more then the on that is produced by the spring in the solenoid. But I'll have to get it all out again anyway - so, I'll test the resistance without the solenoid on. This should tell. Thx anyway - I'll keep you posted about my progress.

Yes. I did not dismantle this area, but I sprayed it with silicon oil and moved quite freely.

And a reply to Phillis: The solenoid weights cca 0.5 Kg I Got it from LRDirect: Products Ordered Code Product Item Price Quantity Total STC1245.Z8 STC1245 £27.00 1 £27.00 Subtotal: £27.00 Shipping cost: £11.00 VAT 20.000%: £7.60 Total: £45.60

OK. I got a new solenoid from UK. Eactly the same as featured by TSD on his picture. It worked fine for about 5 days and now I have almost the same problem again. The starter turns, but the solenoid seems not to have enough power to push the jagged wheel out. So, it spins idly without turning the engine. Any ideas are welcomed. Thx, Tomas

Yap - Wood Auto has the best deal, but they only ship within UK and I'm in Germany. But thanks anyway - at least I know the exact par number that I'm looking for.

Also, I just registered with breakers just now and waiting responses.

Thx a lot for your advices - really appreciated! OK, I'll not push my lack with the Britpart. I found one solenoid (0331303165) in Germany here: http://www.landyscheune-shop.de/magnetschalter-anlasser-2-5-d-td-tdi-bosch.html Would you say that EUR 79.23 is a fair price? Also, TDS mentioned two Bosh solenoid numbers (9330331002, 0331303165) is there a way to figure out which one I need - without taking the starter out again? Not that I would be lazy, but I have no garage and the weather is not really montage friendly today. Thx, Tomas

Gentlemen, After about 12 years of seamless operation the Solenoid on the Bosh starter from my 300TDI given up. I took it out cleaned inside out, greased, contacts polished, etc. But it just wont get the solenoid to pull strong enough and the starter just turns idle. So, I'm evaluation various options and would welcome your advice: - Can I replace only the Solenoid? - If so, any idea where can I get one and what part number am I looking for? (I'm based in Germany) - If I'm replacing the whole starter, which should I go for? Paddock has two complete models: - Bosh for some GBP 170,- or - Britpart for some GBP 80,- When it still worked, the engine normally started on first click. But during the cold nights, the first half turn was not enough. In those situations, it looked like the Solenoid retracted too early and I had to try 3 or 4 times before the engine started. Would that indicate more severe problem that would not be solved just by Solenoid replacement? Also, I intend to run this car just for one more year before it will be replaced with much younger brother of the same kind. So, I better be saving for the new one then spending too much on the old one. Hence the questions if I decide to go for new starter, shall I consider the Britpart at all? Other posts in this forum suggests not, but people, I need it only for one year. Any advice is welcomed, Thx in advance, Tomas

Western, To the point and 100% precise as always - thx a million. T.

Oil is poring down the engine block - so time to bend over and change the cylinder head gasket. But which one? I drive 1999 300Tdi. The Microcat indicates there are 4 gasket options: - 1 Hole 1.30 mm (ERR5261) - 2 Holes 1.40 mm (ERR5262) - 3 Holes 1.50 mm (ERR5263) - 1.60 mm (ERR7154) Can somebody advise on how to figure out which one to order? Obviously I want to order before I dismantle the car - the work have to be done over the weekend and I have no plans to dismantle it only to find out which one to order. Ordering all 4 of them is also not a good idea - I'm not from UK :-) Thx in advance, Tomas

Hi there, If you have just few drops here and there and there is no large play, then try few drops of break fluid in the steering container. It suppose to seal the drip. But check other posts for details - it was discussed here extensively before I had to change mine about two months ago. The play was so big that I actually had to steer to go straight. The drips made a large ugly looking spot on my parking - so, it was about the time. I have ordered a recon one from Paddock. It took them some time to come back to me saying that they do not have the recons any more and suggested a new one. It was more expensive indeed and now I'm left with the old one - something for the time I'll retire (I'm 37 :-)) The swap took about 2 hours - not easy to hold it from the bottom in the position by one hand and try to fit in the bolts by the other. I had to ask my wife to push "that" rusty knob in and turn it to the right ;-) Have fun, Tomas

Guys, Thx a lot - I think you hit the nail right - the breather pipe! In fact, each time I see that the seal started leaking - the oil is prayed all around the car bottom - really like pressure explosion! I'll get on it this weekend.

Gentelen, After my front propshaft turned a back one me - I have installed a new HD one. All barrings, washers, nuts, seals are new as well, all tighten to Nm as documented in the manual - car runs absolutely perfect, just the damn pinion oil seals. They won't last more than few days - I already put in a third set in five weeks - this time the genuine parts - and, one week later, they leak again ! Anybody have an idea what am I doing wrong? Thx in advance, Tomas

I have used the dummy one to hide the external speaker from by CB radio. Have look: They are not allowed in Belgium and in Germany - this way I have the function and hassle with police ;-)

Hi there. For long time I have been shopping withe Paddoc Spares - never got any problem - parts usually arrived in less than 5 days to Germany. Now, about 3 weeks ago, I have ordered few expensive parts (4bold power steering box, steering protection, steering dumper, ...) The day after tehy rang me up saying that thy do not have the recon steering boxes any more. So, we have agreed that they will ship a new one instead, and send me an e-mail to pay for the difference. Since than (cca 3 weeks ago) nothing ... I have sent them 3 e-mails already - no response, tried to call them - nobody picks the phone up. So, I'm getting a bit curious (already paid them via PayPal). Any feedbask on your experience (say in case they do not have the ordered part) is really wellcomed. The point is that my current power box is going to give up on me any time now and I jaust can't afford to wait much longer. Thx in advance, Tomas

Gentlemen, Thx a lot for the advices. Just downloaded the microcat - I could make it working even without burning using "Power ISO" I have ordered the part from LR Series with the following remarks after the replacement: Transfer box front output parts: Mud shield: FRC6121 - OK Oil seal: FRC7043 - OK Circlip: 216962 - did not order Bearing: STC1130 - how the hack you take the old one out without taking the whole transfer box apart? I had to leave the old one in - no time. Spacer: FRC5439 - same as above did not get to it. Front differential parts: Mud shield: FRC8154 - did not fit. Oil seal: FRC8220 - did not fit, I had one spare one from Paddock - that one did fit, but I blasted it again by over-tighting the central nut. Spacer: 539745 - OK Bearing pinion: 539707 - OK, but too tight now Propshaft assembly: Propshaft: FRC8386 ordered the suggested one - lovely item - the nuts are much easier to access So, some questions: How do you get to replace the Bearing: STC1130 ? What is the Nm on the central nut on the Front differential? 75 Nm is just too much. Did I miss something? Thx, Tomas

Gentlemen, After sorting out the brakes today, I noticed strong vibrations during acceleration. Well, the front propshaft gave up on me and took all the seals and bearings from the differential and transfer box with him. So, I’m on a hunt for a new parts, but I’m not sure about the part numbers. I have 90 300Tdi VIN: SALLDVBF8WA159305 and found the following parts to buy: Transfer box front output parts: Mud shield: FRC6121 Oil seal: FRC7043 Circlip: 216962 Bearing: STC1130 Spacer: FRC5439 Front differential parts: Mud shield: FRC8154 Oil seal: FRC8220 Spacer: 539745 Bearing pinion: 539707 Propshaft assembly: Propshaft: FRC8386 Can I kindly ask someone to cross check the parts before I pull out my credit card? Thanks in advance - really appreciated. Tomas

I had the same recently - brakes! Pulling strong to the left under breaking, + loss of power, + increased fuel consumption, + vibrations in the steering wheel and brake pedal, + smell from left front wheel. Dismantled the brakes and noticed that the pistons in the calliper were totally corroded. Cleaned it with glass paper - now no smell, no vibrations, power is back, but it still pulls to the left under breaking (not when I brake hard). So, I guess I have to check the other side. New callipers ordered but will be here in one week only. In short, either one side brakes too much, or the other too little. Apart of that, check the bushes on the arms - if they are worn, or missing, the axle shifts a bit back under braking and the car pulls to the side. Thx and good luck, Tomas