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Boydie last won the day on May 26 2016

Boydie had the most liked content!

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About Boydie

  • Rank
    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Bullaburra NSW Australia

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  • Interests
    Obviously driving, I also have a soft spot for Ducati's and in past years I've had a GT1000 and ST2.
    Hunting, I have a feral license to reduce the numbers, and tramping over hill and dale chasing furry animals keeps me fit.
    The next big trip(s) will be exploring all the deserts in Oz and the more verdant northern queensland and Cape York around the gulf of Carpenteria and the Northern Territory, living off the land and taking in as much of the country as Julie and I can. Past cars interesting include a Lotus Elan S2, Mazda MX5, Escort BDA, Mitsubishi Galant G2, Mitsubishi Lancer Twin Cam, then I grew up :-( . Began umpiring cricket in the UK in 1968 and still keep my hand (finger) in destroying batsmans careers and bowlers egos. Sometime angler but prefer using a Sako 30.06 for greater effect. Current vehicle is a Land Rover Discovery 300TDi, build date July 1998, first registered July 1999. Currently a constant work in progress to tour all of Australia, converted to a two seater (no kids) and fitted out with all nessesities for long distance driving over Oz. It was an auto but now converted to a R380 5 speed manual so I can service it without getting a PHD in automatics - follow the old addage KISS (keep it simple stupid) - hence all the electronics that were installed have now been removed, as I said its a work in progress.

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  1. My guess is your leak is from the infamous "T" seals, they are a total sod to install correctly. My method, and the only one I've found to be reasonably foolproof is to use the little metal blocks shown in the works manual, these have a radiused edge to allow the "T" seals to be compressed into the rear bearing block without tearing them. They can be easily made up from two pieces of 10mm thick x 15mm wide steel bar -- a liberal application of Vaseline onto the new "T" seals is is also required to ensure that they slide into the block. Don't forget to apply a good quantity of Blue grade silicon to the rear face of the bearing block to seal it up to the rear oil seal carrier, Oh, and as I've said elsewhere, use a gasket with a smear of silicon.
  2. Each to their own, sorry boys but I've always used a gasket. The thin metal sump lip is prone to distortion and flexing so I've always used a gasket, with a smear of blue heat grade silicon either side for good measure and I've also never had an oil leak. Lumumba, I dont know where this question arises from, my original hard copy of the works manual for the Series 1 Discovery clearly states to use a gasket with sealant either side. The gasket itself is a good 1.0 -1.25mm thick and compresses down to around 0.95mm once all the sump bolts are torqued correctly. The CD version of RAVE doesn't make too much mention of it. If the sump was made of cast alloy with a machined face or had an additional steel flange spot welded as a flange stiffener I'd probably agree that a gasket wasn't required but as the flange easily deforms just on removing it I would always advise using the gasket simply to allow for any distortion.
  3. Yeah, I'd be looking at an exchange unit
  4. Excessive articulation is the cause of this type of failure, remove the cups off the bottom shock mountings -- this is best done with a very sharp cold chisel as they are only spot welded on, use a tool grinder to remove any burrs. These cups are limiting the possible angular movement, they are fine for normal use, but not so good if you engage in rock climbing etc.
  5. Sabre, Sorry for the tardy reply, I'm just back from a 39 day tour of the central deserts. I had a tool made to hold the crank pulley ( I turned the crank so that the extension pipe slipped over the tool handle was hard up against the chassis ) and then had no trouble using a 30" long 1/2" breaker bar with an 1/2" drive angle dial with no problems from the underside of the car - which was off the ground on chassis stands to enable me additional space to drop the sump easily. Even so with the breaker bar at around 15* to horizontal it wasnt to hard to guestimate the 90* mark, I dont think its essential to get it exactly 90* - just near enough to stretch the bolt and ensure compression of the pulley, timing belt cog and oil pump drive up against the step on the crankshaft.
  6. Hello to you, Okay you need to translate your requirements back to ENGLISH as we limies/brits know it, GAS = Petrol; HOOD = Bonnet; FENDER = Wing etc.etc. so resend and in the request for parts section ask for the correct type of Fuel Pump for your vehicle, give the year of manufacture and the full VIN number. Oh, and welcome :-)
  7. In reality this amounts to the timing belt being replaced five times (500,000 kilometers) or 300,000 miles so under normal circumstances half the normal life of the engine, so its probably not a huge issue, but it should, like the head bolts, be better advised. Other than a possible camshaft or crankshaft oil seal leaking I'm not able to think of any other reason that you would remove the sodding bolt. However if as I did you make up/fabricate a Land Rover Tool LRT-12-080 it makes removing it and torquing the bolt up again a breeze. All you need is a 2" BSP black iron socket cut and a piece of 10mm plate say 100mm x 500mm and an oxy torch (I used a plasma cutter to cut the shape of mine) and a good stand drill.
  8. Okay as I read the LR service documents regarding oil pump failures, the flats on the crank shaft and the corresponding nibs on the inside of the oil pump inner cog are simply there to locate the cog to the outer cog, from then they are in sync.the inner cog has a raised step on it that abuts the timing gear cog, this cog in turn is pressed up against the crank shaft pulley. The crank shaft bolt tension on these three components is crucial to their location and correct operation. I should have realized this three years back when because of a loose crank bolt the pulley came loose and destroyed the Woodruf keyways and crankshaft, its a shame that LR do not make a greater issue of this torque requirement
  9. Okay, hopefully the last word and advice to others who may follow in my sorry path. The crankshaft bolt MUST NEVER be applied with any form of locktite, ONLY copper based grease and it MUST be done up to the specifications which are 80 Nm AND then a further 90* degrees to stretch the bolt. The bolt and its washer apply pressure to the harmonic pulley which in turn presses on the crankshaft timing gear cog which in turn presses on, and holds in place the oil pump inner gear up against the step on the crankshaft. It is this pressure that holds it in place and prevents is from turning on the crankshaft, the four tiny lugs which locate it on the crankshaft flats are to locate it only, not hold it in position. By applying copper grease if you use the correct LR tool to retain the crankshaft pulley (easily fabricated by the way) removal/undoing of the bolt is relativity easy. Its also possible by cuttning away a small part of the fan cowl bottom to tightener the bolt in situe on the road if you feel its coming loose. According to LR the crank shaft bolt, like the cylinder head bolts should be replaced every 5 times its stretched.
  10. Okay, I took delivery of the new oil pump, a genuine LR part in a Green and White box (NOT in a Blue Bag!) and I made a point of measuring the ID of the pump driving "cog" - it was 0.85 mm larger than the OD of the crank !! I made a call to the local LR main dealership who had supplied said pump and they checked a couple that had in stock and a brand new crank - same result so its little wonder that failure occurs as the slop in the drive will mean that the four small lugs (not full flats to co-inside with the flats on the crank) will mean a constant hammering every time the motor starts ! why the internal profile of the driven cog isn't a inverse replica of the crank - with say +0.005 mm is beyond me! I've saved the oil pump and a mate will machine one on his CNC lathe for me- and he assures me it will be a slip-on fit. He recons that he will be able to duplicate the material by doing a couple of test drills on the original. I found one small drag/score on one of the big ends obvious due to lack of lubrication so while the sumps off I'll replace all the crank slipper bearings - at only $148.00 inc, GST for big-ends and mains its a worthwhile expense. I have a magnetic sump plug but with the fine mesh pick-up on the pump supply I dont think the pump failure was due to foreign objects being drawn into the pump, there were a few tiny score marks on the pump housing plate but not of a depth that you could catch your finger nail in, and they were easily lapped out on a whetstone I keep for that sole purpose. I fitted the magnetic plug after I found a couple of the original valve caps had disintegrated, I now use Turner Engineering and haven't had a valve cap failure since.
  11. Well its all pulled apart and it was the pump, the two "flats" on the inner wheel had completely been destroyed and I'm very thankful I had the crank nitrided, I've pulled No.4 bigend and the centre main and there doesn't appear to be any bearing damage, I'll put that down to the engine being shut down seconds after the oil pressure went to zero from 35 psi. As a precaution seeing as I have a spare I'm going to put a new Turbo cassette in as the bearing seems to be a bit worn. Garry, yes we were supposed to be leaving this week, Peter hasn't fully recovered from breaking his collar bone when he fell off his mountain bike -- he had to have a titanium plate installed and then had a second op when a screw came loose - (hard to imagine I know) - so thjat adventure will be put on hold until later in the year or if he puts it off further he will probably have to look for another shotgun as I wont be available.
  12. Has anyone had this oil pump failure and if so what were the consequences ? I dropped the sump today, some bits of metal and a spring washer probably off a 10mm bolt the centre main and No 4 big end looked fine and I replaced the bearing caps, --- I'll start stripping down the front end of the motor tomorrow.
  13. Yeah, Ralph, I tagged it in the index, 300Tdi
  14. On our way back from Lightning Ridge to have a look at my neighbors opal mine the alarm went off 22 K's north of Gilgandra - no turbo pressure, no oil pressure. I turned the engine off and coated onto the grass verge on the side of the road. From there we arranged for a tow into Gilgandra, not the best town in the west - they dont even have a taxi service ! I initially thought that maybe the turbo bearing(s) had blown but that wasn't the case, I disconnected the oil feed line to the oil cooler, pulled off the fuel solenoid power supply to stop the motor from running and turned the motor over for a good 45 seconds - no oil ! the level in the sump was on the mark so it wasn't due to lack of engine oil in the sump and I've been since advised that the inner "gear" on the oil pump have been known to crack in two resulting in zero oil flow --- has anyone heard of this before ? I'm secretly hoping its just the oil pick-up pipe that's come adrift but I wont know until Saturday after I drive there with a trailer to pick the Disco up.
  15. Boydie


    Buy and install a decent after market oil catch can and most of the problem is solved,
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