jessejazza

I am grateful for those pics - i've thought about reverse bleeding but not tried it yet.

I'd agree. I use a 0.75 MC with extended reservoir and that helps make the job easier. I'm not that experienced on LR but i fitted the slave cylinder without trouble. I put the extension reservoir on the brake MC as well. If you have the remote reservoir screw straight into the MC.... why didn't LR do that? If you have the 'bean can' [or plastic reservoir with hose connection] it could be slightly leaking and so you run out of fluid or possibly there is blockage in the line which restricts flow. I've never used the bleeding devices and changed bleed nipples every 2-3 years. Just had a bitter experience with a car i am trying to get on the road [which has been sitting for 3 yrs whereby the bleed nipple on the calliper sheared when i undid it. Bleed nipples rust down the inside weakening them... always keep caps on.

I wondered about chain grease. She has sat idle for sometime before my ownership I think. What the other comments refer to I don't know. I couldn't reply earlier as I work away from home.

I need to replace my springs all round. Rear o/s cracked and others past their best. I was wondering what the best way was of providing maintenance to stop all the gunge getting into the leaves. Dosing regularly with diesel is one way I have read - just wondering what folk do. Ideally one needs to avoid attracting more dirt. [Decided against parabolics as I have come across a number of folk including a m8 who has had them crack.... and he didn't get his money back from Mountain when it changed hands.]

Thing is it's just occasionally. As for drive... just checked. Yes - it seems the red lever has slipped... if the red lever is not fully forward one gets no drive. I'm still lost as to what the shreek can be which then clears. I've got to get her out and try and see. Trouble is I am a long distance lorry driver so away all week and don't really get the time to do domestic things until holidays. I'm going to have to try and get another motor to keep me going in the meantime. Be grateful for any advice/help but I won't be able to reply now until next weekend.

Many thanks for your reply a] no just been out to check b] no - I know what you mean though as I have had other cars with overdrive. c] Hopefully not transfer box then One thing I forgot to mention was that I get a kind of jinking when a road is a little uneven like many here in Lincolnshire. Slowing right down seems to cure it. But again I am unsure what can cause that.

The calamity has happened - last night suddenly all drive went. It can be difficult to determine where the noise is coming from - likely the gearbox or transfer box. I was very grateful for your comments; it was not the rear axle which I suspected as the grating noise would disappear - perhaps the bearings lacking oil until one has done a few hundred yards and then no noise. Yet noise would appear when one went round a smallish roundabout. I have been looking at the manual to try to deduce the problem - someone mentioned likely to be the transfer box. What I don't follow is how the noise can disappear, then all seems fine. It would seem to be the gearbox and a knackered bearing possibly the main shaft. Clutch now does not engage and so the thrust bearing has gone. It's cost me my job as it's my only transport - obviously I've got to them off but any advice/comments I'd be grateful for as I haven't done Landrovers before.

Thanks - I'll note those in my file.

Yes I also found that - rewired the light to permanent when ignition on. No problem then.

Thanks for your reply. I tried another motor factor after my local agriculture supplier couldn't help (farm machinery have loads of V-belts) and he had the right belt 1050mm in length Gates 6222MC and that is fine for both alternator and dynamo (as I have both on vehicles I checked for anyone interested. I have done sizing in the past but even a 10-15mm difference is quite a lot. Its my everyday motor, I had to sort something quick and thankfully managed. As for the shredding; the pulleys were cleaned before fitting, checked alignment which you've suggested - the belt was cheap carp from a LR supplier. Surprise surprise - I tend to change belts as routine 2 yearly so haven't had this before in 30 years motoring. A new belt of substandard rubber is not worth fitting. Buy cheap and buy four times over costs twice as much as buying right in the first place!

I'd be grateful if someone could advise on fan belt length. I was going to a job interview today and the temp gauge suddenly soared - managed to pull into a lane before the temp gauge got to red. Fan belt had shredded/ broken. It was new one Allmakes 2829 miles ago - bought from a landrover parts garage. Not to state the obvious but I am fuming! When I fitted it - it seemed a bit tight and I had to use a screwdriver to lever it onto the pulley. But stretched ok... sometimes that seems to be the case on the cars I have worked on. My neighbour took me to Europarts and correct fan belt has turned out to be even shorter and 14mm wide instead of the expected 10mm. I attempted to fit the 14mm belt but far too short. Alternator 17ACR with 70mm pulley. I went to my S2 LWB 1968 (dynamo) and the S3 1971 SWB (alternator and seems original wiring not upgraded from a dynamo... if any of that vintage were fitted as such) to measure the pulleys and compare. waterpump and crankshaft pulley 133 mm diameter on both motors. S2 dynamo pulley 70mm dia S3 alternator 70mm dia compared with other alternators (from other cars Fords I have in the junk box 65mm). My query: 1] Have I got correct pulleys fitted - both vehicles I have are original to the best of my knowledge. Was it a case with LR at the time that they fitted the same pulleys to both dynamo and alternator motors. I thought a dynamo had larger crankshaft pulleys as the dynamo had to have faster rotation? 2] It would seem that the fan belt width is 10mm and this 14mm item from Europarts is wrong. 3] From what I can deduce the difference of the 70mm dynamo pulley and an alternator pulley (presumably 65mm like other ACR) would indicate that the CORRECT fan belt is the same for both types of generator. There is space for the alternator to be pushed out - I am just wondering if that's the case. Tomorrow early morning - I am going to fit the LWB fan belt and hope that can last me a few days until I've got another from a LR supplier.

No leaks and seems to be ok. Honest!😀😀 Now got to turn my attention to other trouble!

Thin smooth paper type. With paper gaskets I always have used a smear of grease on any motor. It would seem that some hylomar to help seal against any imperfections are worthwhile. New to LR so still finding out the necessary quirks that one needs to acquire. Many thanks.

Replaced both sides hub seals this weekend. The o/s had a synthetic one but I don't think I tapped it in far enough. The n/s had the metal and leather - it would seem it hadn't sealed. What I don't follow is the metal and leather seal is thicker than the synthetic one so maybe does not seal against the land... but I will only fit the synthetic ones now. The front oil leak may have come from the thin paper gasket which I have replaced using hylomar as well. Seems to have sealed this time so many thanks for your help and advice.

90 mph - gulp I've managed to make 60mph at best effort! I also have a GPS speedo - think we have the same model and I have been pleased with mine. I found the speedo cable securing screw had been sheared and so fitting a GPS speedo was the better option compared with taking out and dismantling the g'box to drill out the stud. I'm pleased with mine and will be fitting one to my kitcar build.