Boris113

We tend to use a coleman dual burner cooker most of the time, it's certainly not backpack size but the convenience of being able to run it on petrol or aspen is convenient and then a Jetboil for hot drinks as it's quick to use and quick to cool down again before setting off. For longer trips we also take a fire pit which has a collapsable tripod and a bbq grill suspended from it which with the fire being off the ground, camp sites don't seem to mind.

Never used one myself but I have seen previous talk about chainsaw grease guns being used to good effect. May be worth a look?

I'm slowly accumulating parts to do the same, if you want to use a V8 spec R380 you need the one from a D1 or better yet a D2, the P38 version is very different.

As others have also suggested, I ran my down the outside of the chassis having wrapped it in plastic conduit to give it some added protection. It's secured to the chassis with rubberised P-clips and tech screws. No complaints, saved the headache of pulling it through and it's easier to add/modify later.

I would in the first instance double-check your panhard rod bushes/bolts for play, that often produces a rather unnerving death wobble. Have you had your wheels balanced recently?

I also went with Nanocom and am very happy with it, there is a wealth of PDF downloads on the Nanocom website and a useful forum if you get stuck. The main reason for opting for Nanocom over some of the others brands was that an unlock code covers a model of vehicle rather than a specific vehicle, this meant one license covered the whole fleet of 2.2 pumas at work and then I just added a 2nd one for my TD5 and another for a D4. It may well be that newer diagnostic machines by other suppliers are more capable now and the Nanocom does feel quite clunky to use but it's 7 years old and still works perfectly. Worth mentioning that software updates are free to download also. BBS did/do offer group discounts if you can find a load of other people that are also looking to buy one.

I can recommend both Withams and Jacksons, I've purchased LRs from them personally and plant machinery/gensets for work with no complaints. Not sure what they have implemented with Covid but previously you were allowed to walk around the yard and poke/prod at vehicles to choose a specific one that you wanted. There's some really interesting kit in their respective yards/sheds.

The 90 lived outside for 6 months after fitting the new hood without any obvious fading, it had Fabsil applied within a week of being fitted. At the time of applying, it made the hood and straps darker (like its sodden wet) but once that dries it returns to it's normal colour and remained that way since. Afraid I can't comment on the long-term effects of fading, after 6 months of use the 90 was mothballed into a shipping container and has remained there for the last few years seeing daylight a handful of times a year, looking at some photos from when it was fitted and one from last weekend, it doesn't appear to have faded at all though.

Another vote for Fabsil, I bought a new tilt from Britpart which was utter rubbish but 2 coats of Fabsil sealed it perfectly. By sealing the outside, it also stopped water reaching the inner straps and puddling inside as Romahomepete mentioned above.

Excuse the bad picture but this may help, this was before I connected the air filter housing to the snorkel. The pipework between the filter and turbo is a standard U-shaped section from a 300tdi Disco

I've done much the same as you and used the 300tdi Disco air filter. From memory the intake pipework runs back under the filter box and connects to a snorkel on the passenger side using flexible conduit. There's no reason why you couldn't run it to the vent on the side of the wing if you don't intend to fit a snorkel though. Just a thought from that last picture, is the filter housing low enough to let the bonnet close?

I tend to use a combination of Park4night, iOverlander and Pitch-up across Europe and never had any problems across Europe.

I put some slat type ones in my old burning drum with no warping issues, it was a pretty hot fire too. They looked like these ones: https://shop.challenger4x4.com/front-lamp-guards-for-land-rover-series-and-land-rover-defender-3112-p.asp

Appreciating it's not the most environmental solution, a bonfire in an oil drum has always worked for me. Similarly a blowtorch and a scraper might do the job. You could also try clutch fluid applied with a paint brush and left for a while, it's performance is dependent on the quality of the powder coating though.

Did you Speedohealer come with about a metre of wire and a plug a few inches from the box? If so I can dig out the wiring diagram from when I fitted mine (same principal - TD5 with a v8 5th gear ratio)