trulyalya

will, why didn't you specify, which exactly wires are swapped? have you found the intermittent wipe unit? I wonder if 1987 m.y. wiper is any different from this one? In mine, fuses are blowing out instantly, and I can't understand what's the cause...

sorry for resurrecting this topic. does anyone know the resistance characteristics of this canister-type oil pressure sender? or may be its part number? I don't have any gauge on my dashboard. But one of the contacts on my electronic unit in the dashboard was isolated with a stripe of paper. And I have two wires (of black and of white colors) going to nowhere under the bonnet (the same batch with the wire to the temperature sender unit and oil switch).

sorry for bringing that back to life. having reached consensus regarding the thread naming convention, the next step is to finally understand its operation. does it actually close or open the electric circuit after the system reaches that 7psi pressure? in my understanding of proper designing mission-critical devices, it should close the circuit under normal operation (broken wire would mean open circuit which generally should give a signal the circuit in the instrument cluster to switch on the lamp, right?) thinking of adding an extra oil pressure sensor for the gauge, and may be an oil temperature sensor, but the latter would probably require welding in a bung on a sump?

any ideas on those two bolts?

Nice to see this hack ;-) Ray, so, how long did it last? Can't understand, this green plastic gear should be inside the transfer box? Is it the same what's used in purely mechanical speedos? Can I just pull out the steel cable and install this sort of stuff instead? (thinking of building my own transducer from scratch. do i need bearings for that, or some sort of seal is enough, i wonder?)

The question to those, who got their old upper tailgate replaced with a new one. What's the profile? T-shaped? How is the glass fixed in place? What's the need for those wedges in the corners? Are they just covering the seams, how are they mounted?

Guys, why do you need the glass dimensions. Does anyone have the drawings (dwg files) of the top tailgate?

Check the handbrake as well ;-) Looking forward to get to my car. The transfer box ration of my RRC is expected to be 1.192. Don't know anything about diffs and tyres yet. The gearbox also makes difference. Your measurement units are always confusing :-) The google search for '65 mph in kph' gives 104.6 km/h? true? If my gauges are not lying and if I remember correctly, cruising fifth gear at 100 km/h (calculated with GPS) would require my engine to work at somewhat 3000-3500 (it's 3.5L). When my map sensor arrives I wanna make similar plots for my carb setup ;-) Does it mean that the power capacity of your engine is limited to the left 20kPa (to 100kPa - or, probably, we'd better know what's the engine capability in terms of volumetric efficiency? it's mentioned in Wiki that atmospheric engines could achieve the pressure of somewhat 134kPa without any boosts?

Yep, SECU is ignition only, as far as I know, and it's sort of enthusiast's made. The factory systems available here are various versions of Январь ("January") used by AutoVAZ; Autron, Mikas, Corvette (GAZ-UAZ engines), not to name licensed Bosch and GM ECUs. Do not know what's the difference though - all of them read sensors, make the same calculations and give out signals.

Noisy, what makes you worry about that? The lack of reserve capacity? What's your usual RPM when cruising? I guess in order to maintain the same RPM on a 4.6 engine it would require a little bit more fuel? (Although can't say exactly what's the equation).

My mistake. First, from what I've read elsewhere in the Internet (it was NOT that guy), I thought that MS started as an open source project (v1 - and mb v2 - still open source?). Second, that fellow explicitly warned that his implementation was largely different from the original MS both in schematics and in firmware, and actually he was against calling it MS clone. Haven't made circuitry analysis or firmware testing, but definitely, things in common are motorola processor in QFP and MS software protocol. Third, I haven't bought yet any control units - haven't made a decision. As far as I know that guy is now developing a completely different proprietary system that would (tada!) support fully-sequentilal injection, methanol, water, etc. and would be built on a completely different platform (cortex?) Besides, there is an AVR implementation of MS, which had also been designed as an open source but latter went commercial - would it also be regarded as a rip-off knock-off copy and copyright infringement? Fourth, I'm still in hesitation if I want MS or any other system. Probably I don't want the proprietary systems (I can't fine-tune Lucas system, can I?). There are several models of known factory-built commercial systems in Russia (at a price of $100-$200) which are factory installed on the local cars. The only drawback of these systems is they are poorly documented and (my understanding) require some special costly programmer and software to fine-tune the engine, while megasquirt offers macosx software. Frankly speaking, I can't really understand why it's possible at all to make all these systems proprietary. I mean, all these formulas are published in scientific automotive papers long ago. What's the subject of the copyright? Some PWM code to control injectors? Sensor mapping formulas? I mean, if it were my lawn-mover, I'd probably build my own microcontroller-based ECU (and would probably make it ©-protected ;-) - the cost of error would be minimal, and the whole project would be much simpler. If I were crazy enough, I'd probably build my own system based on my old Z80 to control my RRC. I mean it's arguable. But I got your point. BTW, any common efi-related sections on this forum? how much does it cost to become a supporting member? Anyway I feel that first I need to get is an oscilloscope - even just to set up the crank sensor correctly or to check the MAP readings. Do you think that DSO quad would cover all my automotive needs? As for MS - MS3 doesn't drive coils directly? I still can't understand what are the major advantages of fully sequential systems - ability to set it up for exactly for each cylinder (depending upon each cylinder's overall condition - I know i can even disable any particular cylinder in case, say, the valves are leaking)? Or it allows to squirt fuel only when the exhaust valve is closed (so that no fuel is wasted during the valve-overlap period)? Is this concept relevant across the whole RPM range? Or when running at full throttle injectors remain open all the time and I can not (and may be even do not need to) schedule their opening at certain periods of the engine's working cycle? As far as I know, MS supports several engine position sensors (including camshaft sensor). Can it be used to improve the starting time (I adore the Nortstar DIS ignition systems installed in American cars, but they rely on a sophisticaed trigger wheel). Probably I can utilize my distributor for this setup. Actually I like the way it starts with carbs - after just a moment of cranking. It seems I found the right solution to my one-piece exhaust system problem: http://www.aemelectr...unt-3-inch-1175 I'd ask my dad to find a strip of steel and to weld in a suitable boss for the O2 sensor. Hope, drilling the exhaust pipe won't be much of a problem. Hope, one O2 sensor would be okay? Do I need knock/EGT sensors (I'd like to make it leaner for better fuel economy + am I right in thinking that leaner means less harmful in terms of ecology?) The last question (which probably deserves a separate topic) is if MS allows you to identify particular cylinder missfire as it's done in modern ECU/OBD systems (the engine is pretty old and I can't be sure if everything is okay with it). As far as I know those systems constantly monitor the momentary speed of the flywheel and if they don't see the expected acceleration from the power stroke of each particular cylinder, they display engine fault warning naming exactly the faulty cylinder(s). Do they use the same trigger wheel, or a different one with much more teeth numbers? Such system would be quite handy from my point of view, I tried googling but didn't find any projects of such kind so far :-(

still can't get what's the difference between the free and the paid versions. do I really need the full one?

Nige, just found a local workshop that would probably laser-cut the disk for me. The questions are what thickness should I choose, should it be stainless steel or 'usual' steel, what's the difference between the expensive and the budget one except for the flexible mounting holes, and what tooth shape should I prefer, the curved one like in your disks, or the straight one like presented in this dwg? http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/36-1.htm anyways the project is postponed at least till mid of january, when I finally get to the car...

Thank you, FridgeFreezer! Remarkably, didn't find any meaningful dependency between the MAP readings and spark angle advance (probably, the scale is misleading). The second shot - moving uphill?

Well, I'm in Russia. I've just checked it on ebay, the estimated shipping for manifold alone is ~100 quid. Besides, I'd need a plenum, a fuel rail, etc. Probably, it's easier to get into the car and get to the islands :-) Anyway, when I come to that point and get enough money (which would probably occur late in spring), I'll first check it locally (from time to time there are some offerings - when people are tired with injector problems and go for carbs - but it's very rare) There are several complications, though. First, my engine is 26D ( 'detox' according to Internet - probably it has something to do with its exhaust system - maybe it's somehow interconnected to the inlet system? dunno). Secondly, the previous owner of the car brought it to the exhaust specialist, who did a lot of welding in situ and actually made it a single whole out of a stainless steel tube - right from the exhaust manifold (which has proper connection between the downpipe and the manifold) through to exhaust intermediate and to the silencer in the back. So I'm a bit confused - how do I weld in those bosses for my lambdas. I would have to remove the cross-bar and then the whole exhaust system as a single unit (if there's enough space in the engine bay and the pot is large enough for such exercises). I'm planning to obtain a 'clone' of MS2 from Latvia, which is cheaper both in terms of kit-price and delivery costs. It's sort of improved(/shortened?) version which drives the coils itself (doesn't need edis module) and apparently has a better circuitry for VR sensor. I've ordered a wbo from 14point7 (spartan style), a bluetooth module and some cheap MAP sensor from China - gonna build an arduino-style something to get the plots of my current carb settings before I continue with ignition and on). Hope, it will be sooner than this summer...

ergh... Guys, thank you for your replies. If they were just £100 per complete set - that would have definitely solved all my troubles) But I'm afraid the delivery to my place alone would cost much more... I don't want to roll-back to TBI installs, I'd rather opt for sequential/semisequential squirting... But first things first, I need to sort out ignition. I decided to go for MS with full ignition management (two packs of quadcoils) driven by MS. And then, if everything goes fine, I'd continue with injectors. Now I'm just assessing the difficulty level and possible budget for this project.

Mr.Noisy, what's your estimated mileage with these settings? As far as I know MS supports EGT sensors, or it's only valid/suitable for turbocharged projects? Please, excuse my poor English, but what the last sentence is all about?

Hey folks! Does anyone here have an experience of retrofitting a carb intake manifold instead of the EFI one within the carb-to-EFI conversion project? Mine was probably a twin-carb model transformed into a single-carb (a special spacing plate was installed). Is it just the matter of drilling holes for injectors, or I'll run into other problems/issues? Fuel rail is another challenge for me. Is it just a plain tube with holes or there are some other considerations to keep in mind? Is it a feasible as a DIY project? Thinking of fitting flexihoses from injectors to a common reservoir with a pressure regulator (sort of a Jetronic-type fuel distributer) One more question to engine gurus. I've just started reading some books regarding internal combustion engines. It's written there that it's better for the engine that the intake air is cold, rather than hot. What's the purpose of intake heater then?

Laptom, when you mentioned MAP (35 or 39) - what was that? What are the usual MAP values at different RPMs?

What's the way you manufacture it? Milling machine, or a very heavy duty laser? Wish I were Mr FATBOY)))

Nige, mine is 26D series. Are you sure those were metric? Actually I was asking about the mounting bracket - what bolts do I need to get it in place? Btw, what was initial designation for those two holes? Arghhhhh... Just realised, as far as I remember mine is not serpentined. Anyway, I'll get to the car by December. As for the rattle gun, I've got a strong socket I used to rotate the crank (without removing the rad). So it's just the matter of finding a suitable crossbar, and I watched a video on using starter motor instead of the rattle gun :-) Will there be any problems with tightening it back (how do I stop the engine from rotating? just with the aid of the gearbox? ) Serjio

oh, that's quite important. what's the inner thread for those mountings on the block? and what's the thread of those bolts on the pulley?

Nice pictures. They give good understanding of what is needed. Anyone documented the way of removing/reinstalling the pulley? What are the difficulties to expect? Do I have to remove the rad? What's the proper way of putting the belts back on the pulleys? How long does it usually take to get it off and then on? What's the proper torque for the main nut?

lansalot, did you install MS on that engine? can you please post pictures of the trigger disk? do I need to remove the pulley? is it installed between the pulley and engine, or ontop the pulley?

Few more questions. 1. So, if I want to replace an old bi-metallic type regulator with electronic one, should I opt for 1810 or 1809? 2. Speaking of engine temperature. How do I calibrate my temperature sensor on an old V8 engine? What's the normal working temperature for the engine and how do I measure it? Do I have to drain the cooling agent from the engine to remove the temperature sensor? 3. Tacho. Could anyone explain in detail how it works? According to the datagram, it seems to be connected to the same stabilized voltage source. I want to use analog-to-digital converter to log engine revs using my the car pc. Can I do that with the existing circuit (after voltage regulator replacement), or should I install my own sensors?