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danebrewer

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Everything posted by danebrewer

  1. i must say that sounds like a scary prospect! ill bear it in mind, ill have to replace some wires here and there i'm sure....
  2. ha, brill, thanks Disco Ron. so basically all the stuff i can do without....thanks for reminding me of the steering column support bracket holes....and the bulkhead/chassis bracket holes id have had them welded up otherwise ..... shows how long Ive been doing it if i have forgotten that....
  3. aye, I cut the wiper bracket off and ground the spot welds out on the fly screens on the vents so i could install the old ones from my 90.....
  4. I got a bulkhead a while ago, I think from Simmonites, and they told me, that it was a TD5 one. Trouble is, it isn't like any TD5 bulkhead Ive seen anywhere, even the internet doesn't turn anything up.... the Part number is, according to the label; AHA710460. It looks like a mix of a TDCi bulkhead and the TD5 one, I'm rather at a loss... Below are some pictures of it to help sort things. The white circles are outlining holes I need to fill, I get that the ones in the passenger footwell are there for AC pipes etc, but what about all the holes in the drivers footwell? they don't seem to serve any purpose, there aren't any cables or anything supposed to be running there? The hole for the heater blower motor is huge, I've had to make a plate to fix over it(hence the line of holes around it's periphery). and the two holes above where the fuse panel goes is a bit of a mystery, I assume that one, presumably the right hand one, is there for letting a bundle of wires through owing to its rolled edge, but the other? it seems that there are far too many holes in it for a TD% bulkhead... anyone got any ideas? DSC00684_01 by danebrewer12, on Flickr DSC00685_01 by danebrewer12, on Flickr DSC00687_01 by danebrewer12, on Flickr DSC00689_01 by danebrewer12, on Flickr
  5. Thanks very much Western, oof, £400 is a fair old bit for some wires, I think I'll have to go with the looms I have and hope it all works perhaps i can add a 200 Tdi fuse box with blade fuses in if there's enough length in the wires to be able to do that...
  6. hello all, Im about 4 years into my rebuild of my 90 (no sniggering at the back) and I've got a couple of questions, the bulkhead is getting close to being prepped for hot zinc spraying/paint, and as such I'm looking towards wiring fo the bulkhead. i junked the NAD engine loom and got a 200 Tdi loom, basically because I didn't want/need wires for things like the EGR valve and potentiometer on the injection pump. The original bulkhead loom has been chopped about over the years and as such i want to get a new one. i also want the possibility to be able to use blade fuses, thus the bulkhead loom for a 300Tdi seems like the obvious choice. my question is, (assuming the bulkhead and engine looms work with each other) will the 300Tdi bulkhead loom with with the old instruments, or would I need to change those as well? also, since the bulkhead i have is a Td5 one, there are a few extra holes in the bulkhead that need plugging. I have various plastic plugs on order for the larger ones, AC pipes etc but there are numerous non round, (ie elliptical holes caused by two panels having holes in that do not line up) in the drivers side footwell that obviously, you cant plug with a round bung. So what do you recommend to do about it? what does land rover do when it needs to plug holes it has seemingly drilled for no reason? many thanks (i would post pictures, but the WiFi here is so tiddle poor that i can hardly stay online long enough, let alone upload images, i will try later in the week....)
  7. i guess this thread could easily have been responded with a : .... best search the tech archive in future
  8. oh wow that's fab western! sounds like ma prayers have been answered thanks a lot *saves to favourites*
  9. oh no i understand that, you'd end up using tools at a considerable rate if you tried machining hardened/treated steel
  10. if ypu still have issues with the shaft not fitting, IIRC, Ashcroft transmissions would cut you a shaft specially? can anyone confirm this?
  11. its not a NA/D one i don't think, mine was one peice and had a flexible gusset connecting the plastic cowl to the steel fan surround.....
  12. Hello all, At the moment, I'm balls deep in a nut and bolt rebuild/conversion/modification of my 1985 2.5 naturally asthmatic 90, in which now resides a 300 tdi and R380 from a disco on a new galvanised Marsland 300Tdi chassis. After a very long and tortuous episode with ashtree land rover (which will be a future thread all on it own) i finally sent their bulkhead back, and am now looking for alternatives. Here are (i think) my options: either looking at a new TD5 bulkhead which is about a grand from Simmonitesa new 2.5 NA/D bulkhead which i'll have to have modified to fit around the R380 and tunnel iirc you're looking at over 2k for thisa new defender bulkhead from pegasus parts, at the moment they only make series bulkheads but would look at making a run of defender ones if they had enough interest (10 or more interested parties) on their website they say they would retail for about £1600 which is significantly less than a genuine item, but could take years to make/develop/arrive which i'm not really prepared to wait for....so.... after reading all that it seems that the only option left is for a new TD5 bulkhead. Thus the question is; will 2.5 NA/D era interior, wiper motor, wiper mechanism, dashboard, door checks etc fit onto the new TD5 bulkhead, or will i need to buy everything again/rob the interior from a scrapped/accident damaged TD5? thanks in advance guys, i'm kinda at a loose end here
  13. one thing i found out when i did my 300tdi conversion is that you cant just cut the engine mounts off the chassis of the disco and slap them on the 90/110, the spacing of the chassis rails seems to be different, and it pushes the engine over to the left IIRC as you look at it from the front, you'll need to do some fettling or get the proper engine mounts from steve parker or someone similar, alas i never got to drive my conversion, i poked the footwells with a screwdriver and before i knew it i'm balls deep in a full on nut and bolt rebuild with the 300tdi and R380 from the donor disco on the flywheel front, i just used the old 2.5 NA/D flywheel housing with the 300 TDI, bolts right on.....
  14. Hi all, I was just wondering what other people's experiences of Ashtree land rovers is like. I placed an order a long while ago for a bulkhead for my 90, specifying a 1985 dash with the transmission tunnel for an R380 to fit my engine/gearbox swap project/rebuild. So, lead time was about 8 weeks they said, ultimately after a lot of chasing I would estimate it to have been at least double that. That said they were very polite on the phone. The bulkhead arrived the other day, and to be honest I am pretty disappointed. Every flat panel is warped, likely due to the heat of the galvanising, there are blank holes where riv-nuts should be, and riv-nuts that have not been re tapped, they have just been drilled ready to be tapped and left as is. The finish is of 'farm gate' standard as is probably expected. Around the drain channel where the bonnet buts up to the bulkhead, there is a line where the galvanising hasn't even got, probably due to whatever was left on the bulkhead when it was sent to be dipped. Pretty much every straight edge, notably around the footwells and transmission tunnel as well as the very top of the bulkhead where the top of the dash attaches is bent and as wavy as heck. basically it is not, IMO in a 'customer ready' condition. I did try and start straightening it out, but i gave up after looking at how much was wrong with it. I'm going to give them a ring on Monday and see what they have to say on the matter. Any opinions are welcome, Thanks
  15. hmm, for seals and things like that I always go either genuine or buy OEM from paddocks or LR series or whoever, if the seal really is cracked you should be able to take it back to wherever you got it from and get a replacement, for things like that I always fit OEM/Genuine for peace of mind
  16. Hi all, just a query as per the title really, I have a 1985 90, originally with a 2.5 n/a and LT77 that I am rebuilding on to a 300 Tdi defender 90 chassis with engine and main gearbox from a 300 Tdi discovery, retaining the original transfer box, axles are original 1985 items. my question is, whether or not the prop shafts from my 1895 vehicle will fit my rebuild, I don't know whether the prop shafts are a different length between the later and earlier vehicles, I still have both the prop shafts from the disco as well if those would be a better fit, I am sure that they would fit, I just want to make sure that they wouldn't limit the droop of the axle on full articulation. the vehicle is on standard rate and height springs ... many thanks in advance, Dane Brewer
  17. Yep, been there seen that, can't seem to buy weld on pipe caps anywhere apart from stainless ones, anywhere except from India or China, as I think almost all of our underground plumbing is now Plastic that would be my preferref option, but again, they seem to be as rare as rocking horse ****! D
  18. I bought new LR Genuine teflon balls, and thaykd only been on a couple of months and there's already signs of rust, I think It's just the thickness of the coating, I might try and paint the unswept area as I'm rebuilding my 90 atm and see if the paint sticks...
  19. Thanks Gary, ebay is where I originally found them, I was wondering whether you had any pice of them fitted to your axles? Thanks
  20. Hi all, Has anyone got one of these and also any pictures thereof, as I can't find any big ones or close ups to see how they sit on the axle casing, we all like piccies, so any would be much appreciated! D
  21. yeah I did think about that but what i'm trying to do is take up as much slack and play out of the transmission as possible, by making lota of little things tighter, I know about the phrase of polising a turd, but it's gonna be mine for the forseeable future so I want to do it right the first time if that makes sense....
  22. oh right ho, thanks for that..... the hunt continues...
  23. Hi all, I'm rebuilding my 90 ATM, and i'd really like to put a pair of LSDs in the front and rear axles, problem is I have the old 10 spline diff centres and so old 10 spline halfshafts. I've seen some new take off shaffts from a 2012 puma defender on ebay, and my question is, if I get a new 24 spline diff centre, will these shafts fit? I also have the old, thick style drive member on my vehicle. as I seem to need halfsjatfs for both the front and rear axle and I'm not really up to spending land rover prices for half shatfs nor do i really want to have to go and buy uprated halfshafts just to get the spline count up. second question, does anyone knoe of where if at all you can get new standard duty halfshatfs that don't come from the wonderful company with the blue and white logo that we all know and love.....?
  24. Thanks for all the replies, I think, after speaking to someone at Ashcroft about the gearboxes is that my old LT77 is really a bit weak for the 300 Tdi, seeing as I have the disco R380, I think I'll chop both of them in to Ashcroft and get a Defender R380, my seatbox is knackered as come helpful soul chopped it about with a windy wheel, so all I need to source really (that I didn't already need is a transmission tunnel.... going the whole hog is what they call it I think....
  25. I just wondered as I have already welded in the disco mounts, and found them to push the enging off to the right when viewed from the front, the enging offset is different in the defender to the disco, but I'm getting a galvanised chassis made up with the required mounts for the LT77 and 300 Tdi engine, the engine does sit right at the back but it's all stripped down now to the engine on a rolling chassis, I think I'll just go with these: http://www.steveparkers.com/conversions/300-tdi-discovery-90-110/300-conversion-engine-mounting-kit.html and get richards chassis to weld them in before galvanising the chassis, not the cheapest route, but I can't think of another way to easily tell them where to put the engine mounts on the chassis. I'll be sure to post an update when I get my chassis and get it all re-assembled! thanks for the help D
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