fotorat

My 200tdi was covered in oil on air side, turned out to be the fume vortex plastic can "o" ring - mine fell off it was so hard! i could not get the right o ring from Pirtek - but found that the o ring from a john guest speedfit 15mm joint fits perfectly

check the fron 4 steering and tracking joints, the adjustment seizes up easily, Check your alternator output, when it goes on the blink it will rear end your £100 Battery, and leave you stranded you might even get limp home mode gearbox fault on low volts check there is no oil in your ecu - only joking - there will be oil in your ecu - dont panic, just drain it off once a year.

are all your pipes good from air flow meter to intercooler- they are well hidden on the passenger side. if one is split or you have a loose jubilee - that can cause your type of problem

I have a Y2K TD5 with twin sunroof's - and I love it - I could have chopted it for a TDv6 2006 this year, but i have done so much to it, its a shame not not use it. I only keep it to tow my caravan so it only does 1-2K per year! Even though my rear chassis looked better than most that havent been done, it still needed doing, on the plus side you can raise the rear air suspension and do all the welding prep work without taking the wheels off! PS the chassis welds up easy peasy, mind you it is much thinner than my D1 Chassis (1993) which is in much better condition to the Y2K! Only my front sunroof drain pipes were broken - fixed with flash tape. I have oil in my ecu despite draining and fitting a new ignition harness I have a new Alternator, also! just fitted a recon steering box, ps pipes, tracking bar, S damper and front steering ball joints - still need to do front shock bushes Apart from all that mine is dark blue with cream leather piped in brown with full beige carpets, electric heated seats work from seat have inboard arm rests, cruise control is great, its a really comfy cruiser, MPG is pretty good I was getting 32 when I used to commute in it. (Auto) I think they are a no brainer for the money Mine has a new radio but the cd auto changer is bust paint work is brilliant though and I have ACE which lets you corner like a looney

£93 for D1 200tdi pah - rubber will have to do mine is bulging pending this search

cheers. today I was planning on looping a load strap through the wheel and through the seat base to stop it spinning - I will try the horn in a few mins and see if it is working. T

2000 TD5 Disco I have fitted a recon steering box today which cost £225. Before refitting it I removed the steering link to put it in my vice and clean up the sliding central adjustment section. I left the ingnition locked to prevent the steering wheel moveing Then when refitting it I unlocked the steering after fitting the link at the steering wheel end - to access the bolt heads - all ok i could not get the link to go up far enough to allow the bolt through so I tried to back it of a little and then it happened - it came off and the steer wheel went spinning on its own I have since found out that this must have been the clock spring unwinding I have not moved the steering wheel since and want to know if I can realign it, by disconeting the steering link and turning the steering wheel very gentle to feel the clock spring. So I want to know if this is possible, which way tighens the spring and which way undoes the spring. I will carfully find the centre and lock it there and refit the steering link is this possible? Ps I have also fitted 4 new ball joints on the steering and a new steering damper, also while the wheel were off I have lcean the insides up like new, they are white inside, I might spray the insides sliver! TOny

Well in my shed I only have 6mm and 10mm and my Clarke 160 would probably not weld the 10mm I have decided to cover it all up and I have finished it today in 5 hours! Thanks for the info guys

Found some nice 6mm steel which is now cut down to size and bent into shape so I am going for a patch over the outside job, weather permitting sunday weld up

4250 in aTD5? I thought the power peak range was between 1500 and 2200, perhaps the engine rev limiter is about 4000rpm? I dont think I have ever had mine over 2500, mind you I have got the over size torque converter in mine

finally got round to starting my rear chassis repair I have cleaned it up and removed the transit anchor eye PLanning on cutting it square today and welding up tomorrow Whats the consensus on the welding approach,? 1 flush fit seem welded all around (a bit awkward up side down?) or 2 generous patch over the outside of the hole? or something else. links to pictures of neat finised jobs would be nice

I saw a shiney "new" recon 200tdi block at my local spares dealer Ridgeway 4x4 I think it was about £1500

I have wire brushed it again, red oxide primed it and just filled it with easy sand, felt like a bodge job but at least its better than before!

Hi I have removed all the loose stuff and wirebrushed it up and applied Kurust, photos are about 1 hour after kurust went on. I was planning to just finish it off ny painting hammerite over the area, but due to the depth and shape of the holes I think I should fill it to stop it clogging with mud/snow ect. I am stopping short of cutting the whole area out and welding new in as it has not gone all the way through yet and despite the rust the remaining area is nice and solid. I was thinking of priming it, then filling it and priming over the filler? it there any rust inhibiting filler on the market?

can you post a picture of this, I cant visualise it, please