NRS91

Ooo nice 48v! That will charge up quickly! My solar owes me around £300-350 and my lithium, battery monitor and 3kw inverter were £1000 which should cover my needs!

nice build! I currently run 4x 110ah lead acid batteries with 460w of solar which is normally fully charged by 10am on an overcast and rainy September day. Will be upgrading to a 200Ah LiFePo4 battery to allow me to make good use of my 3kw inverter for induction cooking, air fryer and water heating when I've got excess solar. Your set up will have plenty in the tank!

My mate had a 90 on 20" rapper alloys and low profile ATs... in deep mud it sort of worked like a paddle steamer lol

I think the oil filter on a 300tdi is in the way of the 200tdi mounts... Are you disco or defender spec 200 i cant remember? If you have a look at the products Steve Parker sells for putting 300tdi into a 90/110 or series you will see the mods needed to go 300tdi

It would probably be ok and they are a cheap performance boost but if you feel like the engine is tired I would suggest getting the injectors reconditioned and the injection pump too as the spray pattern, pressure and quantity will deteriorate over time with wear.

This may help: https://stegs4x4.co.uk/2018/02/02/install-a-dynamic-timing-advance-spacer/

A Dynamic Timing Advance spacer will have no effect on the governed RPM of the engine which is done by springs in the top of the pump. What people are adjusting with the washers is the pre-load against the dynamic timing advance piston which adjusts how quickly the injection timing is advanced as the engine speed is increased. Too quick and the engine will knock and rattle, too slow and you will see no benefit. My kit uses a custom machined shim which allows the piston to travel the full distance available without the spring becoming coil bound (like it would if the shim was too thick) but also keeps the most tension possible on the spring to keep the timing advance under control. I wouldn't recommend running without a pre-load shim, you might as well advance the static timing which would lose some low end torque.

Ahh nice proper old school! Love it!

Haha that sounds fun! Do you know what supercharger they used?

Custom manufactured spacer and shim made in the UK by an accredited engineering company. Anodised for longevity. Genuine Bosch seals. High quality fasteners. Round the clock customer support. Website with secure payment gateways giving the customer payment protection. Comprehensive liability insurance. It all soon adds up and despite rising overheads and material costs my prices haven't risen since 2017. Sure they could be made cheaper. Someone on a manual mill using offcuts of material could knock out the spacer. Substituting the correctly machined shim for washers and swapping the genuine seals for aftermarket ones or even incorrect O rings would also cut costs. I wouldn't be happy fitting that standard of product to one of my vehicles so I wouldn't sell it to someone else. I try to make every product to the best quality and I think it's reflected in the 5/5 rating I have, the recommendations I get and the trust the community puts in me to be straight with them and give them honest advice. While giving fair value to the customer I also think it's important to not undervalue myself, you can easily take yourself well below minimum wage spending hours on the admin and support (especially when self employed) and there needs to be a little in the pot for product development, I've got tons of stuff hidden away that hasn't made it to market yet but is slowly getting there.

Thanks the 300 nozzles will have a bit more flow than the 200 which helps nicely! The dynamic timing advance spacer kit doesn't lock the timing advance, it still moves as intended and moves the same amount as other spec VE pumps which have shorter advance pistons to accommodate the extra travel naturally. But I don't blame him being cautious around unknown parts after all the dodgy boost pins we've seen. Info on how they work and prices available here https://stegs4x4.co.uk/product-category/diesel-tuning/tdi-land-rover-tuning/

I tend to design solid objects then have the slicer settings set to 15% gyroid infill (3D infill that is strong in all directions) then print 3-4 walls and 5 upper and lower layers. Pretty strong for models and also part prototypes and gadgets. To help with dimensional accuracy and shrinkage i also tick the "print outside walls first" option.

Yea I ran a Mk3s for years and now on a Mk4 with prusa enclosure. I run 2.3kg spools of recycled PLA fron Filamentive which requires you to print a larger spool holder and despite everyones insistence that moisture will ruin filament ive not had any issues, maybe my filament isnt as hygroscopic as other brands or materials. I use kitchen cleaner spray and paper towels to prep the print sheet, I used to use isopropyl alcohol but i found it spread the oils from your fingers around the plate rather than remove it. Draughts are the main killer of large prints with sudden temp changes distorting the print.

If it still ran but poorly I would think its salvageable. Personally I would get it reconned by someone like Welham Diesel. They will put a full set of decent seals in it and set it up on a test bench to flow the correct numbers which will compensate for wear.

I mean I have some regroovable 48" tyres available... but I dunno how much they would flex when the vehicle weighs about as much as the tyre is rated for 🤣

It was simplified a little but its not uncommon for a Iveco Daily or Defender 110 chassis cab to be under 2ton ULW. If a 7ton mini artic went over a weigh bridge loaded to capacity it would be 3500kg on the vehicle axles and 3500kg on the trailer axles as per normal but the trailer is borrowing the vehicles payload to add to itself as the king pin weight which assuming a tractor ULW of 2ton would give you a trailer gross weight of 5000kg (1500kg king pin + 3500kg on axles). The 1200kg trailer ULW rule is part of Constructions & Use regs (cant remember the exact weight but its around 1200kg) but basically if the trailer is over a certain ULW and has coupled brakes (vacuum/air/electric) then it needs MOT. I know of mini-artic trailers over 20ft deck length (+gooseneck) that are 950kg ULW from Fifth Wheel Europe. Trailer ABS is separate to Vehicle ABS, on HGVs its just 5 wires (+ve, -ve1, +ign, -ve2, warning lamp [Can Hi, Can Lo on modern stuff too]). This would only apply to trailers over 3500kg combined axle weight after a certain date. If you are making a trailer then staying at a max 3500kg combined axle weight makes life much easier for Type Approval as you are class 02 rather than the heavier class 03 (ABS, markers, etc, etc) Tow vehicle age or size is irrelevant, any trailer over 3500kg GVW must have coupled brakes and a suitable coupling, over-run brakes and 50mm ball are only legal up to 3500kg. Incidentally any semi-trailer must use coupled brakes too and since a few years ago dolly trailers must as well. Its a hell of a minefield and this info is pulled from several locations like C&U regs, MOT rules and Type Approval/IVA docs. Not a one stop shop to find it all lol

That company in Wales is Fifth Wheel Co, weve got one of their trailers and just got one of their Navaras to tow it (dont worry its reinforced) Theres also Fifth Wheel Europe who do a lovely gooseneck conversion and their latest braking system is electric and runs off the 13 pin plug (though i prefer air) they have a dealer in Derbyshire.

That one looks like a Clixtar one with a 4x2 tractor unit and a 3 axle trailer (the rear most axle on the Iveco actually being part of the trailer). I think it was mainly the Dutch that had 10-12ton train weight, im sure the rest of europe was 7.5ton with UK being 8250kg then 7500kg and now new licences being 7000kg? would need to double check

Heres the big version, its Clixtar not Klixtar my bad!

Mini artics are popular in europe they are called "Minisattelzug". The "rigid" B+E system is called "Klixtar". American 5th wheels are pretty light, I have a 30ft Jayco which is 10,600lbs gross weight which is 4820kg but they are pretty much balsa wood and 1mm tin sheet 🤣

Ahh you have summoned the mini-artic nerd.... So take a 110 HiCap with 3500kg GVW and 7000kg GTW (same as our Iveco Daily) If the towing vehicle has a payload of 1500kg then the trailer can be 5000kg gross weight with 3500kg combined trailer axle weight and 1500kg imposed load on the king pin. Trailer needs to be under 1200kg ULW which gives a payload of 3800kg. If you go over 3500kg combined trailer axle weight you move from 02 class Semi-Trailer to an 03 class which then needs MOT and ABS etc so worth sticking to 3500kg... (My guess is the 4000kg trailer rating would have been for the vacuum/air braked trailers like the old utility board reel carriers?) This is our trailer weights: Was this on the latest gov site? I thought the 7m rule had been dropped? Im certain for semi-trailers its max 12m from kingpin to rear of trailer.

Id probs look at an M57 for a daily driver if you want to keep the land rover gearbox and are aiming at economy and towing though probably not much cheaper than swapping a recon 200 in

Yea thats fair, my cousin is a HGV fitter working on skip lorries and they hold up to the abuse there which is why i recommended them.

Apparently multipack boxes of deutsch plugs are cheap on TEMU, my cousin keeps buying random multipack boxes to keep his service van topped up. Might be an option if you want to reterminate it all with waterproof stuff.

Try Mark at PoleVolt https://polevolt.co.uk/index.html Say Steg sent you he might be able to find them for you, he's pretty good!