NRS91

thats a scrap gearbox i brought for £50 so i could re do the bracketry without having to drop the main box out... just dropped the LT230 and the spud shaft probably over 500... cant remember now haha will go have a crawl under her when i get back home but if it helps for now the pulley is an inch off the xmember at the front and the lt230 is 5 inches further back lol disco wouldnt have the rear prop issues ive had... but duno about engine width or if the 19" diameter flywheel housing would fit though.... i used all the standard mounts and holes and it seems to work well... but going to upgrade to HD mounting rubbers in the future Mike i think my dads told most people haha if not theyve heard it and asked. i ran standard ones for a while... worked well tbh as i rolled on the power... but ive had a bigger turbo and injectors since and the rear diff was shot when i put the engine in... so i got some 2nd hand tricked up axles off ebay... ARB Lockers, KAM 4.1:1 RnP (meaning i HAD to buy 37" tyres of course ), maxidrive shafts and HD drive flanges... though std CVs :/ which was a downfall especially as i didnt upgrade the track bar... DOH Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to you all!

ah shouldnt be too hard then

arent they through the tubular rear outriggers?

ah Mr Witty welcome... cant wait for yours to be done... well have to go Cummins Cruising with Tom! and if yours reaches the spec your aiming for then it will be huge! ah brilliant! that saves me having to to remember this ones different... and much more sensible user name haha is it a case of mention admin and they will appear here? lol

Heres some pics for you mate from when i redid the brackets using a scrap box: how they sit together linked with a spud shaft The Spud Shaft The Bracketry

the issue is that the rear prop is bugger all in length... so any suspension lift will compound driveline issues and it works nicely currently... im running 37" tyres on 2" lift (to get me gearing nice and to look mean and roll over obstacles) so i was looking at ways of raising the body... however if i challenge wing and tray back (aussie style flatbed not challange) that will give me plenty of room but i would still like to lift the cab 2"... besides the outriggers for the bulkhead and the tubular ones that support the tub (and im assuming would support a 110 hicap rear bulkhead) what else would need moving up?

aye ive PMd Nige... looks like ive killed the thread though

the joys of choosing a username when ya not even a teenager... wish i could change it to NRS91 like all my other accounts haha but yea that 90 is mine full collection of all the vids here: and well 35mpg, 200-300hp and 500+ lb/ft of torque is the reason why... plus it sounds awesome! the GMC V8d is a gutless weak paperweight compared to the cummins... ive known people with new crate motors at 220hp have the blocks crack in under 50k miles and they struggled for 20mpg with one... Cummins is a touch of a heavy treader but theres nothing like it for drivability... can leave it in 5th right the way down to 30mph or so and just tweak the throttle and in a cloud of smoke and a roar of thunder your up to 70mph and gone! Best mod i have ever done to my truck tbh... as for the drive train you run the DAF45 engine and gearbox (air assist clutch is lovely in traffic) to a 1:1.003 LT230 transfer box and then to your axles... now my rear axle was fubared when i fitted the Cummins so i brought a set of 2nd hand uprated jobbies with lockers etc off ebay and they handle the power fine... better than the stock truck clutch is anyway (mines a fair way from the standard 130hp) you just dont do owt silly with them and roll the power on... as with a 5.9l truck engine and 37" tyres shock loading is what will kill um

great read gents as im looking at this myself for batterys i reccomend two LR size HGV batterys with opposite terminals. mine are Banner... and they are doing well starting my Cummins engined 90 first swing, no heat after being sat in minus temps for 3 weeks (one battery wont swing it lol) i have a truck cab 90 so im wondering on peoples thoughts on location? maybe a small spacer box below a cubby box/subwoofer with air intake on the bulkhead side and twin vents of hot air out of the front? with the air intake/exhaust and fuel pointing straight down out of the seatbox plate above the gearbox? should keep most of the **** away from the combustion side of the eberspacher? and tee straight into the fuel like like youve done with a NRV? though would this work with a Td5 tank? (as im looking at fitting one in the future) thoughts and suggestions welcome... and watching your progress with interest!

gettin a bit O/T here with all the licencing issues. Brownies licenced to do the towing... and IIRC the B+E licence covers upto a 8250kg train weight these days. His truck is powerful enough and the brakes are maintained well enough to tow 3.5ton its just finding a rating for the max weight the 88" can tow legally and then finding the rating for coupled brakes. im following this topic with interest as i need to rig up the air brakes on the Iveco Daily 3.5ton flatbed and sort out its artic trailers brakes.

Hey guys want to do a 2" body lift on the defender. now before we get all the people saying why and saying its pointless ill explain why... i need more clearance for the wheels to flex and my rear prop is only 550mm long and with the 2" lift the standard joints are topped out. so any suggestions guys?

cheecky BUMP i had an '86 issue of LRO with the ESARCO in and ive loved them ever since. the drive line is nice and simple and pretty amazing tbh. personally id have a big diesel in it and run it on interlinked parabolics due to not having enough travel in the props to get much flex IIRC the 1st n 3rd axles were ran on the road and then the 2nd transfer box was engaged by a dog clutch when the going got tough. you could have it twin steer with a steering rear axle for offroad only though this reduce the turning circle as it would pivot around the 3rd axle instead of between the 2nd and 3rd. to steer the rear axle you could use the gywn lewis assistor ram that runs off the PAS box with a mech lock for the highway from the looks of the drawing is has dual servos/brake masters which is understandable... but theyre mounted near the 2nd transfer box in the diagram... which is weird? also i doubt you will have to flip any diffs as the transfer boxes are running PTO to PTO so its reversing the rotation that way. Good Luck and keep us posted!

hate to revive such an old thread but just wondering how Mike got on with the Cummins idea? Ive got a 6bt 90 Pushing around 215hp and 3200rpm running the Daf/ZF box, LT230 1:1.003, 4.1 ARBs and uprated internals and 37" Tyres. pulls well, geared for 115mph (in theory), reaches 90mph easilly and sits at 70mph at around 1800rpm. LongLandy your hoses, how much are they? mine hold water but would prefer a better solution.

hate to revive this thread but i thought it might be useful for people to compare experiences with the new IVA Test? my understanding for the IVA test now is that a bobtail could be put through a normal IVA as either an amateur built vehicle, a vehicle manufactured using parts of a registered vehicle or possibly a rebuilt vehicle?? but even this document contradicts itself as to which IVA some of the above classes need: http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/repository/SVA%20to%20IVA%20Guide%20v1%20April%2011.pdf

yea im interested in this conversion myself if i could find a cheap enough turbo and the 4 stud manifold is of similar size to the 200tdi one i could do the rest easilly as ive found an alternative control method off a VW TDi forum and im developing a way to adapt it onto a land rover just wondering about how yours has gone?

yep i would love an update too... as i have 2 200TDis and one of them is going to be a powerhouse when i decide which lol

thanks for the reply, you have a PM im watching both topics eagerly!

any news on one suitable for a 200tdi disco engine in a 90?

pics?

nice my plan could work out rather well then by the way ... my names nick the forum name is something i made up when i was young a stupid

well at the mo till i get any fab skills or money its pure vapour... im working out a plan in my head and when i can afford 3 rear axles and 4 90 degree gear boxs ill probs do it... till then im just gna keep thinking gears... the rotation should work out correct too... would need to find a place to make a 1:1 diff ratio (if at all poss) and get my mate to weld the other two axle diffs up

thanks bill if its around the 20" mark i might be able to get away with my idea

this thread makes very interesting reading i suppose if you could get the gears then it would be possible just wondering does anybody know the length of the short side axle tube on a range rover rear axle?

i love the centaurs... bit expensive and rare for my wallet though... any thoughts on my proposed swinging beam system?

hmm interesting... im guessing that the diff input shaft wouldnt be able to take the forces of pivoting and driving the walking beam? heres a bit more walking beam p0rn for ya http://www.amphibiousvehicle.net/amphi/L/t...al/twister.html