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simkin

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    http://www.simkin.org

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  • Location
    Brentwood, UK

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  • Interests
    I.T. stuff mainly but decided to fulfil childhood ambition to own, repair and do something not as dull with a Land Rover Defender 200TDi
  1. For those on a budget, Argos (of all places) is advertising tyres on page 107 of their latest catalogue. One offer suggest "buy one get one free" on certain tyres. Probably excludes the sizes we all want but it might save somebody a few quid on some budget Avon tyres. They link to: http://www.national.co.uk/argos Worth run a quick search if you are in the market for something cheaper than a fresh set of BFGs.
  2. I'll give it a go then without the heating element. I've got a spare one and the connector for the rear window is working. It also helps that my rear door card is plywood that will need swapping out after the winter so I can screw it onto that. If it works, It hasn't cost me very much. I'll probably pull out the heater element if it stays there so there is no risk of the fuses blowing due to somebody fiddling with it.
  3. Rather than replace my rear window with one that has a heating element, I was considering fitting a Maplin Auxillary heater (A75FL) to the rear door. It pulls 150W and has a 15A fuse. Presumably I'd have to run a complete new set of wires out to it due to the high current draw and swap out the fuse in the fusebox?
  4. No problem. This size has limited colour options for some reason. I went for black as it is the sturdiest material and I'm basically quite clumsy.
  5. Just a tip this one, I found That ReallyUsefulProducts.com make a black clip-lid 24L box in solid black that measures 270mmx465mmx290mm and two of them fit on the side shelf really nicely. Certainly better than the cardboard box I was using before and they were only £11 each!
  6. My Saturday will mostly be spent replacing both ends and all the fluid in between. Apologies if by planning to do so, I have just made it rain all weekend.
  7. Have not touched the slave. Thanks for the advice. I'm off to the parts shop at the weekend.....
  8. I had a similar problem. Lost clutch response. I changed the fluid and bled it through. Got the clutch response back, better than ever. It has sat for two days since and now I am back to floppy pedal again. Reservoir at the master is full. No leaks anywhere. Is it worth bleeding again to make sure I haven't got any more air left in there or do I need to go shopping for parts?
  9. Is the left rear indicator working? You may have some unrelated problems or your controls are iffy. I had a similar problem but only affecting the left rear. Turned out to be a mess of wiring in the rear right quarter where badly installed tow electrics met the junction point between the front feed and the cable run over to the the left hand side.
  10. Resolved! The previous owner had not done a very good job wiring in the trailer electrics. Was't obvious and DVM meter was all over the place. I basically unwrapped everything, twisted, crimped etc. until I had good joins all round. I'm road legal again now. Afternoon well spent. And I've read so much stuff about the electrics, I'll be a lot more confident next time. Reading-up on cross-member swap-outs helped understand the electrical routing too. Thanks everyone!
  11. Reading up a bit, the loom runs front-to back on the right-hand side and then runs along the top of the cross-member, so Jim1 had it right and I'm off to buy some 2mm thin wall and hope the rain stays off long enough for me to run some new wire across the back.
  12. I'll probably get those ones from UltraLEDs then. But as there are lots of 501 LEDs on fleabay, it would be good to know if any old T10 LED that fits will do? Doesn't need to be canbus or anything daft like that? These for example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130661075070
  13. LED upgrade seems the way ahead then. Looks easy enough to do:
  14. The left front side light works and the fuse is good. Mine is a 1993 K Reg. If the loom runs front to back on the left then this is an even more curious fault. I could do as Jim1 has done to get around the problem but I'd rather fix it if possible. Might have to kludge it to get it passed the MOT in a few weeks time otherwise.
  15. Whilst picking up some stuff from the local campsite for my scout-leader wife, she commented that my left hand red light wasn't working. So I pop out the bulb and... it is fine. Swap it with the right-hand and it works on the right but (as you can guess) the left hand one is still out. Got out the voltmeter and I'm getting a mere 0.2v on the Green/Red cable. Unplugged everything from the bullet connector earth and it made no difference. Odd thing is that the right-hand side one is fine. Indicators etc on the left are fine too. Looks like the number plate light is out as well. I'm running low on time this week to look at it so any pointers from people who have had similar issues, much appreciated. Which side does the wiring loom run from the front? Does it power the right-hand side first and the left-hand side slave off it as the circuit diagrams suggest?
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